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Hi!
Dunno how many pics already is out there but here is my collection:
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=4651
(the pictures are 700 pixels wide, but there is also an option with
larger images who can be as wide as 2160 pixels)
I know there are at leastr two other sites with pictures, one with the
parts only and one with the finished model taken by a webcam.
I LOVE this model! It's probably the nicest/prettiest model LEGO has
ever done!
Hope these pictures will inspire more people to buy one, it's worth
the money IMHO :)
/Tobbe
http://www.arnesson.nu/lotek/
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It looks very cool, I'm curious what if any, kinds of moving parts does it
have? Does the landing gear move at all?
Adam
In lugnet.general, Tobbe Arnesson writes:
> Hi!
>
> Dunno how many pics already is out there but here is my collection:
>
> http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=4651
> (the pictures are 700 pixels wide, but there is also an option with
> larger images who can be as wide as 2160 pixels)
>
> I know there are at leastr two other sites with pictures, one with the
> parts only and one with the finished model taken by a webcam.
>
> I LOVE this model! It's probably the nicest/prettiest model LEGO has
> ever done!
>
> Hope these pictures will inspire more people to buy one, it's worth
> the money IMHO :)
>
>
> /Tobbe
>
> http://www.arnesson.nu/lotek/
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On Sat, 26 May 2001 21:48:24 GMT, "Adam Murtha" <adammurtha@home.com>
wrote:
> It looks very cool, I'm curious what if any, kinds of moving parts does it
> have? Does the landing gear move at all?
The propeller can spin and it moves the "cylinders" with it, as
supposed and the wheels (same brick as the steering wheel in 8448 BTW)
in the landing gear can rotate. It's not retractable as this is not
possible in the original either (they invented retractable landing
gears in WWII to allow for more speed).
Other things that move is the control stick, but there are no rudders
at all.
Remember that this is a statue :)
I got a mail-request for some meassurements so I might as well
copy-paste them here too:
Wingspan: 465 mm [18.307"]
Length: 410 mm [16.142"]
Heigt: 165 mm [6.496"]
Fuselage widht: 65 mm [2.559"](eight studs), in front
Tail heigt: 85 mm [3.364"]
Tail width: 160 mm [6.299"]
Prop diam.: 152 mm [5.984"]
Wing width: 80 mm [3.15"](front to back of wings)
Tail wing width: 56 mm [2.205"]
Heigt between the bi wings: 77 mm [3.031"]
Meassurements are not meassured with greatest care and might be of a
mm or two.
Can't think of any other meassurement to do, ask if you want to know
something else :)
/Tobbe
http://www.arnesson.nu/lotek/
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It looks like an absolutely fabulous model. A classic, no doubt about
it.
Did you get it from Shop at Home in Sweden? Too bad Shop at Home is not
active yet in Norway! :-(
Fredrik
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In lugnet.general, Tobbe Arnesson writes:
> On Sat, 26 May 2001 21:48:24 GMT, "Adam Murtha" <adammurtha@home.com>
> wrote:
>
> The propeller can spin and it moves the "cylinders" with it, as
It's actually got a spinning radial engine? Sweet!
When I get one I'd like to try adding moving control surfaces to
it...
Awesome pix by the way! Thanx! :]
KDJ
_______________________________________
LUGNETer #203, Windsor, Ontario, Canada
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> It's actually got a spinning radial engine? Sweet!
Yep, it's a six cylinder though, I think the original has nine.
> When I get one I'd like to try adding moving control surfaces to
> it...
Should be doable, not an easy task but doable.
> Awesome pix by the way! Thanx! :]
Thanks! Glad to be at service!
/Tobbe
http://www.arnesson.nu/lotek/
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On Sun, 27 May 2001 08:37:36 GMT, Fredrik Glöckner
<fredrik.glockner@bio.uio.no> wrote:
> It looks like an absolutely fabulous model. A classic, no doubt about
> it.
It's pretty, I'm thinking of where to display it best in our
apartment. Perhaps some strings from the ceiling.
No way I'm taking this one apart for pieces, although it has some rare
ones (especially for a Technic geek as myself since I don't own any
new "standard" bricks).
> Did you get it from Shop at Home in Sweden? Too bad Shop at Home is not
> active yet in Norway! :-(
Yes, it arrived in a week or so. I also ordered some of the newly
found service packs.
They don't operate in Norway? Strange. E-mail me. We might be able to
work something out.
/Tobbe
http://www.arnesson.nu/lotek/
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> When I get one I'd like to try adding moving control surfaces to
> it...
I recon that plan calls for the use of some flex system, if you can get
some :)
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tnt@arnesson.nu (Tobbe Arnesson) writes:
> It's pretty, I'm thinking of where to display it best in our
> apartment. Perhaps some strings from the ceiling.
Hanging aircraft models from the ceiling certainly reminds me of my
childhood. At the time, there were only plastic kit airplanes. I
never thought about hanging up LEGO airplanes.
LEGO models hanging from the ceiling probably collects less dust
compared with those standing on the shelf, as they are higher up. You
could just shake it from time to time to let off the worst bits!
> They don't operate in Norway? Strange. E-mail me. We might be able to
> work something out.
Thanks, but it's okay. They will probably start operating by this
year, and I can wait. Besides, with this nice summer, who wants to
sit inside playing with LEGO? (I think I know what people are going
to answer here... :-)
Fredrik
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> Hanging aircraft models from the ceiling certainly reminds me of my
> childhood. At the time, there were only plastic kit airplanes. I
> never thought about hanging up LEGO airplanes.
And now it's not just "only plastic kit airplanes" today it's LEGO
plastic kit airplanes 8)
A friend of mine had a LEGO X-wing hanging from his ceiling for a
while.
> LEGO models hanging from the ceiling probably collects less dust
> compared with those standing on the shelf, as they are higher up. You
> could just shake it from time to time to let off the worst bits!
...or stand on a chair and use my "lens cleaning brush", or perhaps
some ordinary round paint brush.
> > They don't operate in Norway? Strange. E-mail me. We might be able to
> > work something out.
>
> Thanks, but it's okay. They will probably start operating by this
> year, and I can wait. Besides, with this nice summer, who wants to
> sit inside playing with LEGO? (I think I know what people are going
> to answer here... :-)
Yeah I know. I have some cross country mountanbike competitions lined
up for this summer. It's nice to have both good and bad weather
hobbies :) Although the Sopwith was a pretty quick build and I'm sure
it can hang outside too, beware the bleaching sun though.
/Tobbe
http://www.arnesson.nu/lotek/
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tnt@arnesson.nu (Tobbe Arnesson) writes:
> Yeah I know. I have some cross country mountanbike competitions
> lined up for this summer. It's nice to have both good and bad
> weather hobbies :)
I prefer rollerblading myself. I'm just into recreational inline
skating, but it's still way fun!
BTW, I just bought myself a new bike. I used to have a mountain bike
with slim, slick tyres for city use, but now I've got a proper hybrid
commuting bike. The old mountain bike got the old fat, knobby tyres
back on. I tried to take it for a ride, and I have to say that those
tyres are really awful for city use. I cannot understand why that
many people use fat tyres in the city. I feel just plain unsafe with
'em. There's no feeling of control at all. They're probably better
for off road use, though. (I think they are Tioga Psycho II.)
> Although the Sopwith was a pretty quick build and I'm sure it can
> hang outside too, beware the bleaching sun though.
I would be careful taking the LEGO outdoors on a sunny day. I used to
have the 5580 Highway Rig on display as a child. It wasn't even close
to the window, but still all the white parts yellowed. Yuck!
Fredrik
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> I would be careful taking the LEGO outdoors on a sunny day. I used to
> have the 5580 Highway Rig on display as a child. It wasn't even close
> to the window, but still all the white parts yellowed. Yuck!
I have pre dark ages bricks that used to be white too. But they have
been stored in light secure boxes and such so I have no clue how that
occured, I suppose it's aging in the plastic.
Any other thoughts on this?
/Tobbe
http://www.arnesson.nu/lotek/
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tnt@arnesson.nu (Tobbe Arnesson) writes:
> I have pre dark ages bricks that used to be white too. But they have
> been stored in light secure boxes and such so I have no clue how that
> occured, I suppose it's aging in the plastic.
On the subject of my 5580 Highway Rig which was on display, I clearly
noted that only the visible white parts had yellowed. The parts of the
plates that were covered with other parts, for example, were not
yellowed. This leads me into believing that it's the light that yellows
the parts.
Could it be that your white parts were already yellowed before you put
them into the light secure boxes? Perhaps you did not notice/care about
this effect at the time?
Or it could be that the light exposure to the parts had started a
photographic process which continued during the storage period? This
is, BTW, how photographic paper work. The exposure takes place, and
then the paper is put into a catalyst liquid (aka developer liquid),
which turns the exposed parts black. The paper doesn't actually turn
black during the exposure.
Fredrik
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In lugnet.general, Tobbe Arnesson writes:
> > I would be careful taking the LEGO outdoors on a sunny day. I used to
> > have the 5580 Highway Rig on display as a child. It wasn't even close
> > to the window, but still all the white parts yellowed. Yuck!
>
> I have pre dark ages bricks that used to be white too. But they have
> been stored in light secure boxes and such so I have no clue how that
> occured, I suppose it's aging in the plastic.
>
> Any other thoughts on this?
> /Tobbe
Actually, yes (although this won't be terribly helpful). I too have a 5580
that I've left displayed (not in direct sunlight, but it still get's some
sunlight) since I built it (when it came out, roughly 1990). Most of the
pieces are still white (albeit dusty) but a few have yellowed slightly. On
the other hand, I have a 6854 Alien Fossilizer and 6815 Hovertron that I
received and built in 1996 then immediately stored in a wooden drawer. They
both yellowed horribly (I have bricks from the early 70's that aren't that
yellow) but ONLY where the surface was exposed (when I removed bricks from
the Fossilizer, the bits that weren't exposed are still white).
These 2 sets received NO sunlight (or any light, for that matter), yet
yellowed horribly (they darker than my tan bricks, and are very close to
yellow). Yet my Model Team Scale F-15 and 5580 Highway Rig have both been on
display in diffused sunglight for over 10 years, and only some plates have
yellowed, and only slightly. Also, I've heard theories that somehow older
LEGO is more prone to yellowing, yet here is a case where it clearly doesn't
seem to apply.
I have no clue what yellows LEGO but it's not just sunlight that does it,
that's for sure (although how they could be reacting to wood from the drawer
they were put it is unclear to me).
Go figure.
Mark W.
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Frank Filz showed me a brick out of a sealed set from the 70's that had
yellowed in the box, once opened over twenty years later. The box may
have been near or in a store window, so it may have gotten UV through
the box, but the parts in the same box that were inside a plastic bag
had not yellowed.
Show what do we know?
- ABS yellows. White, light grey and blue bricks show the yellowing most
visibly.
- Parts yellow with age, but not uniformly. Bricks faces against other
faces do not yellow.
- Sometimes the yellowing can be bleached out, but as Tom Stangl avows,
sometimes no amount of bleach can take the yellowing out.
- Parts do not uniformly yellow, even though all sides are exposed to
air. I have monorail track that is partially yellowed, but was
presumably completely air exposed.
- Parts that get sun exposure yellow faster. This is common lore; can
anyone dispute it?
- Parts in sealed boxes or in wooden drawers can yellow, apparently
faster than parts that get diffuse sunlight.
My theory is that the ABS is reacting with some (unknown) airborne
chemical, and the presence of UV radiation speeds the reaction. That
chemical concentrates in wooden boxes, but I'm no chemist.
It would appear to be prudent to store white bricks in airtight plastic
bags. Maybe ABS outgassing protects itself from the yellowing process.
It would be really fascinating to hear about anyone's experience with
yellowed bricks in old MISB sets. Has anyone found a yellowed brick in a
perforated polybag?
Cary
"Fredrik Glöckner" <fredrik.glockner@bio.uio.no> wrote in message
news:m3itij7ufq.fsf@crossblock.localdomain...
tnt@arnesson.nu (Tobbe Arnesson) writes:
> I have pre dark ages bricks that used to be white too. But they have
> been stored in light secure boxes and such so I have no clue how that
> occured, I suppose it's aging in the plastic.
On the subject of my 5580 Highway Rig which was on display, I clearly
noted that only the visible white parts had yellowed. The parts of the
plates that were covered with other parts, for example, were not
yellowed. This leads me into believing that it's the light that yellows
the parts.
Could it be that your white parts were already yellowed before you put
them into the light secure boxes? Perhaps you did not notice/care about
this effect at the time?
Or it could be that the light exposure to the parts had started a
photographic process which continued during the storage period? This
is, BTW, how photographic paper work. The exposure takes place, and
then the paper is put into a catalyst liquid (aka developer liquid),
which turns the exposed parts black. The paper doesn't actually turn
black during the exposure.
Fredrik
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On Wed, 30 May 2001, Cary Clark (<GE5u0s.MLF@lugnet.com>) wrote at
18:00:14
>
> My theory is that the ABS is reacting with some (unknown) airborne
> chemical, and the presence of UV radiation speeds the reaction. That
> chemical concentrates in wooden boxes, but I'm no chemist.
>
> It would appear to be prudent to store white bricks in airtight plastic
> bags. Maybe ABS outgassing protects itself from the yellowing process.
> It would be really fascinating to hear about anyone's experience with
> yellowed bricks in old MISB sets. Has anyone found a yellowed brick in a
> perforated polybag?
It is distinctly possible that there is more than one cause of
yellowing, as there appears to be more than type of yellowing.
Having said that, the following suggestion covers both removable
(surface) and non-removable yellowing, depending upon the age & exposure
of the bricks.
A prime suspect must be decomposition by free radical attack. Exposure
to light will accelerate this, and putting the bricks in the dark
afterwards will not slow it down again, if there is nothing in the
plastic to scavenge the radicals & stop the reactions. The different
amount of yellowing in different coloured bricks can be explained if
dyes of different colours have different levels of effectiveness as free
radical traps. It could also just be some of the dyes mask the yellowing
better :-)
--
Tony Priestman
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In lugnet.general, Tony Priestman writes:
> A prime suspect must be decomposition by free radical attack. Exposure
> to light will accelerate this, and putting the bricks in the dark
> afterwards will not slow it down again, if there is nothing in the
> plastic to scavenge the radicals & stop the reactions. The different
> amount of yellowing in different coloured bricks can be explained if
> dyes of different colours have different levels of effectiveness as free
> radical traps. It could also just be some of the dyes mask the yellowing
> better :-)
I don't know nuthin bout no free radicals, but my grandfather has had
white vinyl siding on his house for about fifteen years, and its still a lot
whiter than my white LEGO bricks purchased at about the same time (and which
have spent a lot less time in the direct sun than his house). I know the
material itself is different (though it would be cool to have a house with
LEGO siding), but isn't there some way to marry the benefits of the two
plastics? 8^)
Dave!
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On Wed, 30 May 2001, Dave Schuler (<GE62DC.J0D@lugnet.com>) wrote at
21:00:48
> In lugnet.general, Tony Priestman writes:
>
> > A prime suspect must be decomposition by free radical attack. Exposure
> > to light will accelerate this, and putting the bricks in the dark
> > afterwards will not slow it down again, if there is nothing in the
> > plastic to scavenge the radicals & stop the reactions. The different
> > amount of yellowing in different coloured bricks can be explained if
> > dyes of different colours have different levels of effectiveness as free
> > radical traps. It could also just be some of the dyes mask the yellowing
> > better :-)
>
> I don't know nuthin bout no free radicals, but my grandfather has had
> white vinyl siding on his house for about fifteen years, and its still a lot
> whiter than my white LEGO bricks purchased at about the same time (and which
> have spent a lot less time in the direct sun than his house). I know the
> material itself is different (though it would be cool to have a house with
> LEGO siding), but isn't there some way to marry the benefits of the two
> plastics? 8^)
uPVC for outdoor use in windows, etc. is absolutely brimming with the
stuff that stops it going yellow & decomposing. Because LEGO isn't
designed for outdoor use, it probably isn't :-)
(cf. 5 year model replacement cycle at Legoland)
Dunno much more myself, I've just got a friend who's a chemist.
--
Tony Priestman
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In lugnet.general, Tony Priestman writes:
> On Wed, 30 May 2001, Cary Clark (<GE5u0s.MLF@lugnet.com>) wrote at
> 18:00:14
<SNIP>
>
> A prime suspect must be decomposition by free radical attack.
Darn revolutionary extremists! I wish they would leave politics out of this.
:-)
-Duane
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In lugnet.general, Duane Hess writes:
> In lugnet.general, Tony Priestman writes:
> > On Wed, 30 May 2001, Cary Clark (<GE5u0s.MLF@lugnet.com>) wrote at
> > 18:00:14
>
> <SNIP>
> >
> > A prime suspect must be decomposition by free radical attack.
>
> Darn revolutionary extremists! I wish they would leave politics out of this.
Just get yourself some free radical traps. Work like a charm for us, and we
didn't even have to pay shipping.
<grin>
(wait for it...)
It really is pretty elementary.
<duck & run>
James
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In lugnet.general, Cary Clark writes:
>
> Show what do we know?
> - ABS yellows. White, light grey and blue bricks show the yellowing most
> visibly.
> - Parts yellow with age, but not uniformly. Bricks faces against other
> faces do not yellow.
> - Sometimes the yellowing can be bleached out, but as Tom Stangl avows,
> sometimes no amount of bleach can take the yellowing out.
> - Parts do not uniformly yellow, even though all sides are exposed to
> air. I have monorail track that is partially yellowed, but was
> presumably completely air exposed.
> - Parts that get sun exposure yellow faster. This is common lore; can
> anyone dispute it?
> - Parts in sealed boxes or in wooden drawers can yellow, apparently
> faster than parts that get diffuse sunlight.
According to our resident plastics expert at work, both ABS and
CA (cellulose acetate) polymers will discolour from exposure to
ultra-violet light. The UV energy directly "attacks" the molecular
bonds of the polymers. And presumably this damage is cumulative---
in other words, once there has been exposure, the plastics will
begin to discolour over time. I would speculate that this is because
each broken molecular bond releases more energy, further energizing
the reaction, and so on. Technically it's really a long-term
decomposition. Polymers in general have a useful life, over which
their mechanical properties (strength, flexibility, etc.) degrade.
This is hastened by UV exposure.
Compare the areas of your "white" computer monitor cases that
are exposed to light to those that aren't as much---you'll see
it's yellowing, too, if it's old enough.
Also, I was told that ABS should not outgas at atmospheric pressure
unless heated up to it's softening point. Put it into a vacuum,
however, and it's a different ballgame. For example even metals can
outgas in space.
I draw one conclusion from all of this: If your LEGO has ever
seen light, and unfortunately all of it has (at the factory),
then it will yellow. The only question is just how long it will
take.
KDJ
______________________________________________________
Harbinger of LEGO Death #203, Windsor, Ontario, Canada
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Recently I was checking some of my Classic Lego windows & doors for
yellowing. The older ABS white windows (from 1964-72) were quite prone to
yellowing. However, ALL of my Cellulose Acetate white windows had sustained
NO yellowing (I have hundreds of these). I have the feeling that ABS is much
more prone to yellowing than Cellulose Acetate is.
Gary Istok
"Kyle D. Jackson" wrote:
> In lugnet.general, Cary Clark writes:
> >
> > Show what do we know?
> > - ABS yellows. White, light grey and blue bricks show the yellowing most
> > visibly.
> > - Parts yellow with age, but not uniformly. Bricks faces against other
> > faces do not yellow.
> > - Sometimes the yellowing can be bleached out, but as Tom Stangl avows,
> > sometimes no amount of bleach can take the yellowing out.
> > - Parts do not uniformly yellow, even though all sides are exposed to
> > air. I have monorail track that is partially yellowed, but was
> > presumably completely air exposed.
> > - Parts that get sun exposure yellow faster. This is common lore; can
> > anyone dispute it?
> > - Parts in sealed boxes or in wooden drawers can yellow, apparently
> > faster than parts that get diffuse sunlight.
>
> According to our resident plastics expert at work, both ABS and
> CA (cellulose acetate) polymers will discolour from exposure to
> ultra-violet light. The UV energy directly "attacks" the molecular
> bonds of the polymers. And presumably this damage is cumulative---
> in other words, once there has been exposure, the plastics will
> begin to discolour over time. I would speculate that this is because
> each broken molecular bond releases more energy, further energizing
> the reaction, and so on. Technically it's really a long-term
> decomposition. Polymers in general have a useful life, over which
> their mechanical properties (strength, flexibility, etc.) degrade.
> This is hastened by UV exposure.
>
> Compare the areas of your "white" computer monitor cases that
> are exposed to light to those that aren't as much---you'll see
> it's yellowing, too, if it's old enough.
>
> Also, I was told that ABS should not outgas at atmospheric pressure
> unless heated up to it's softening point. Put it into a vacuum,
> however, and it's a different ballgame. For example even metals can
> outgas in space.
>
> I draw one conclusion from all of this: If your LEGO has ever
> seen light, and unfortunately all of it has (at the factory),
> then it will yellow. The only question is just how long it will
> take.
>
> KDJ
> ______________________________________________________
> Harbinger of LEGO Death #203, Windsor, Ontario, Canada
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