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Subject: 
Re: Pictures of 8mm:1ft scale trains
Newsgroups: 
lugnet.trains
Date: 
Wed, 10 Sep 2003 20:59:52 GMT
Viewed: 
1774 times
  
   In lugnet.trains, Mark Bellis wrote:
   In lugnet.trains, John Neal wrote:
   In lugnet.trains, Mark Bellis wrote:

   Even on British trains (more so on American), the wheels are less visible than with 6-wide Lego trains due to the vehicles being wider than the track. For some of the engines I haven’t been able to put the wheels where they should be due to the constraints of using standard motors and having to articulate the bogies to get round 40’ scale radius curves (I space the curves out but points have 1.5 curves at 40’ so the whole bogie has to get round that).

Given that the wheels are not in the right place, I’ve hidden them behind the bogie side frames and put yellow dots where the real wheels should be. Very few people are any the wiser!!

Trock Trick! :-)

  
   That said, I also am working on a new scale which I call Lgauge1, which utilizes gauge 1 track and trucks and comes out to be 12 wide for standard gauge at 1:32. In the past I have dabbled in some 14 and even 16 wide cars, but I am settling down on 12 wide, which is, ironically (to me, at least), almost the perfect scale for Jack Stone figs:-) I have 1 car completed which I still need to photograph, and a few more are on the drawing table. I also utilize some modified minifigs for my townsfolk-- I’ll really have to get some pics up...

All of this 1:32 business is directed towards creating a garden railroad, a la the trains in Miniland (which also utilize non-LEGO track and trucks). So, it appears that I build slightly smaller as well as slightly larger than you:-)

John

I thought “wouldn’t it be nice in the garden with plenty of space?” but then I remembered the weather, birds etc... and that reliability isn’t perfect (I connect the 2 motors in big engines with a wire to improve pickup reliability and spread the load better to avoid motor burn-out).


I agree wholeheartedly. I would never leave LEGO track outside at the mercy of the elements, which is why I’m going to utilize G scale track which can and is designed to do.

And BTW, I’d never heard of connecting dual motors together-- does that really work?

   Seeing the Miniland trains, they seem to be a metal chassis with some Lego plonked on top. A shame really, but for year-round reliability I suppose it’s necessary.

Yes. There are basically metal frames powered by a motor with large, rechargeable batteries covered in a skin of LEGO.

   Conversely I try to use only Lego with no paint or stickers and a minimum of glue (only for sticking points back together after modification for motorisation by micro-motor). That is, except for the electrics - once I get beyond the feed wire there are some 12V plugs and a beefy dual 3-Amp power supply.


The slope is very slippery...;-) Though I am trying to keep my 8wide layout “pure”, I will be using some suped-up transformers designed by Jeff Titchenal of the SPLTC eventually....

   The advantage of our larger scales on Lego track is that the same physical speed is a slower scale speed, which is more prototypical. I notice that DCC is used for American trains to get better crawling as they are slower (and longer) than most British trains. To scale, my Pendolino will to 78mph at about 7 or 8 Volts before coming off on the corners. The BR standard class 9F 2-10-0 steam engine will do 90mph - its prototypical maximum design speed!

Also, the minifigures seem to fit better in 8mm scale - they’re too fat for 6-wide.

lol check out this pic of a 1:48 figure and a minifig:




Yeah, they’re fat! :-) But in my 8wide scale stuff, I use them anyway to acknowledge that I am not trying to count rivets, as it were, but to create as realistic looking trains as I can within the context of the minifig scene (ooh, that sounds far out, man!)

   I have built my first prototype American engine chassis, for a 4-8-4 Northern engine. I need more pictures and drawings before continuing though. It will have one motor under the firebox as the wheels are 6’ apart and 2 motors under the tender. Two 9V Technic motors will turn the Model Team driving wheels, which are suspended off the rails like the ones on the 9F.

It’s great to know someone else builds to a larger scale, or for that matter takes the time to consider the scale in Lego. I chose 8mm:1ft because the track is to scale and most model railways begin there.

But don’t forget that there are different gauges within particular scales. What you have chosen is true for standard gauge of 4’8.5”, but LEGO track could also be used to simulate a narrow gauge at larger scales such as 1:25 or up. Brian Williams has done some work at Belville scale using LEGO track as narrow gauge (Feldbahn). That is why I use the dimensions of the LEGO wheels to dictate the scale rather than the track gauge, and why I am deciding to abandon LEGO altogether for the use of couplers, wheels and track, because they are simply too small to simulate 1:32.


The dimensions for Lego models
   don’t have to be more accurate than the nearest 6 inches, especially since 4mm is the smallest designed offset for bricks. It takes a lot of engineering to get other offsets.

Keep me posted on your stuff - I look forward to seeing the pics.

Sure will.

John



Message has 1 Reply:
  Re: Pictures of 8mm:1ft scale trains
 
(...) This has been (URL) discussed before> but I totally agree that A: Six wide is a bit too narrow to represent anywhere B: American trains need to to be wider, they are so much bigger than UK trains(with mainland Europe somewhere in between) If I (...) (21 years ago, 12-Sep-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)

Message is in Reply To:
  Re: Pictures of 8mm:1ft scale trains
 
(...) Even on British trains (more so on American), the wheels are less visible than with 6-wide Lego trains due to the vehicles being wider than the track. For some of the engines I haven't been able to put the wheels where they should be due to (...) (21 years ago, 10-Sep-03, to lugnet.trains)

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