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(...) Was that a conversation killer or what? ??? e (19 years ago, 11-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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People- What I meant by color and number is: what type of white are those hubs painted, and is it possible to get that specific paint in a model store (hence the number)? (19 years ago, 9-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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And these from the 856 (URL) the roboriders wheels and the turbo racer wheels (URL) and watch out for the wheels comming off the 8420 later this year. Steve (19 years ago, 9-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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(...) That Visual Wheel Helper is a nice rundown. I wonder if it also worth indicating wether the LDraw part for that wheel exists yet - not all of them do annoyingly. Anyway - I also wanted to point out that you are missing the large technic tread (...) (19 years ago, 7-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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| | Re: Help with redesigning a Boat Lock
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(...) Ah - hadnt thought of it like that. In which case- it would be worth using more than one set (gear+idler) for additional stability. Danny (19 years ago, 7-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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(...) I'm not sure what you mean by color and number. If you are looking for fan part numbers (which may not be the 'official' numbers used by the Lego corp), then my Visual Wheel Helper shows those: (URL) you are looking for Color Numbers as used (...) (19 years ago, 6-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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| | Re: Help with redesigning a Boat Lock
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(...) The teeth won't match up as you say, but only one if the gears needs to be fixed - the other can be an idler, with its sole function being to pinch the worm gear, not raise the platform. Jennifer (19 years ago, 6-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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(...) This is an interesting proposition - but I would be wary. I dont have a Lego worm gear to hand, but if the rear is a half turn out from the front - then the teeth may not match up. Also I think using the worm gears is a great idea -I would (...) (19 years ago, 5-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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| | Re: Help with redesigning a Boat Lock
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(...) Counterweights. (19 years ago, 5-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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(...) Hmmm. To expand the idea of climbing up four gear racks at the corners, the problem would seem to be burying a motor (or several) in the water+boat system to power the on-platform gears that crawl up the racks. One possibility is how much room (...) (19 years ago, 5-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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(...) Thanks to this advice, I've got a pretty good idea how we can fix the lift lock, but I'll throw somethign together at home tonite to test... THen I'l bring it to dinner next Friday Dave K (19 years ago, 5-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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(...) The 'water' and especially the boat are quite heavy, so any slippable connections would not work. The weight would also cause problems with driving the string reliably. john (19 years ago, 5-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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(...) Hmmmmmm.... cough... cough....... I think Jeff had a little bit of help ;) Rob, if you come to the next dinner, and if Jeff brings the lift lock, maybe we can put our heads together and come up with a thought or two :) John (19 years ago, 5-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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| | Re: Help with redesigning a Boat Lock
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(...) What if two gears were used, one on either side of the the worm, effectively pinching it between them? That should stop any flexing and prevent the teeth from slipping. Jennifer (19 years ago, 5-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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(...) You know Jeff, for a train guy, you are pretty good with gears :) I think you are very close with Attempt 3. The tricky part is designing a "nut" to mesh nicely with the worm gears. I have a design for a leadscrew that is very smooth and (...) (19 years ago, 5-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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| | Re: Help with redesigning a Boat Lock
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(...) Then it's a lift lock 'cause that's what Jeff's going for--the bottom of the lock is suppose to look like water going up and down and work like a lock in the Welland Canal Lift Lock system. And then the doors are suppose to open and the boat's (...) (19 years ago, 5-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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(...) First off I think it should be called a boat lift rather than a lock, because in a lock only the water moves. (...) I've read the other posts in this thread and I like both the string and the rack idea's. Racks are commonplace on locks because (...) (19 years ago, 5-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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(...) So much for quick diagrams - of course the back corner should attach to the RIGHT side string not the left. ROSCO (19 years ago, 4-May-05, to lugnet.technic, FTX)
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| | Re: Help with redesigning a Boat Lock
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(...) In case I didn't explain myself well, see the diagram (click to enlarge): (URL) The yellow lock level is attached to the string at the red exxes. Pull A to raise, B to lower (they can be wound on pulleys). You can reduce it to 1 per side a la (...) (19 years ago, 4-May-05, to lugnet.technic, FTX)
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| | Re: Help with redesigning a Boat Lock
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(...) That looks like a *great* project - I hope you can make it sturdy and reliable! As Larry pointed out, you need to keep all the vertical worm gears in sync by tying them all together. Do you have room for the 24t - worm gear gear blocks in (...) (19 years ago, 4-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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