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(...) Thanks to this advice, I've got a pretty good idea how we can fix the lift lock, but I'll throw somethign together at home tonite to test... THen I'l bring it to dinner next Friday Dave K (19 years ago, 5-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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| | Re: Help with redesigning a Boat Lock
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(...) The 'water' and especially the boat are quite heavy, so any slippable connections would not work. The weight would also cause problems with driving the string reliably. john (19 years ago, 5-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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| | Re: Help with redesigning a Boat Lock
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(...) Hmmmmmm.... cough... cough....... I think Jeff had a little bit of help ;) Rob, if you come to the next dinner, and if Jeff brings the lift lock, maybe we can put our heads together and come up with a thought or two :) John (19 years ago, 5-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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| | Re: Help with redesigning a Boat Lock
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(...) What if two gears were used, one on either side of the the worm, effectively pinching it between them? That should stop any flexing and prevent the teeth from slipping. Jennifer (19 years ago, 5-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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| | Re: Help with redesigning a Boat Lock
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(...) You know Jeff, for a train guy, you are pretty good with gears :) I think you are very close with Attempt 3. The tricky part is designing a "nut" to mesh nicely with the worm gears. I have a design for a leadscrew that is very smooth and (...) (19 years ago, 5-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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| | Re: Help with redesigning a Boat Lock
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(...) Then it's a lift lock 'cause that's what Jeff's going for--the bottom of the lock is suppose to look like water going up and down and work like a lock in the Welland Canal Lift Lock system. And then the doors are suppose to open and the boat's (...) (19 years ago, 5-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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| | Re: Help with redesigning a Boat Lock
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(...) First off I think it should be called a boat lift rather than a lock, because in a lock only the water moves. (...) I've read the other posts in this thread and I like both the string and the rack idea's. Racks are commonplace on locks because (...) (19 years ago, 5-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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| | Re: Help with redesigning a Boat Lock
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(...) So much for quick diagrams - of course the back corner should attach to the RIGHT side string not the left. ROSCO (19 years ago, 4-May-05, to lugnet.technic, FTX)
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| | Re: Help with redesigning a Boat Lock
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(...) In case I didn't explain myself well, see the diagram (click to enlarge): (URL) The yellow lock level is attached to the string at the red exxes. Pull A to raise, B to lower (they can be wound on pulleys). You can reduce it to 1 per side a la (...) (19 years ago, 4-May-05, to lugnet.technic, FTX)
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| | Re: Help with redesigning a Boat Lock
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(...) That looks like a *great* project - I hope you can make it sturdy and reliable! As Larry pointed out, you need to keep all the vertical worm gears in sync by tying them all together. Do you have room for the 24t - worm gear gear blocks in (...) (19 years ago, 4-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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| | Re: Help with redesigning a Boat Lock
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(...) (snip) A worthy project! Hope to see it in person at NMRA... I suppose you already considered vertical racks at the 4 corners of the "water" that are embedded in the lock walls (the rack, visible, might look like a ladder or steps cut into the (...) (19 years ago, 4-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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| | Re: Help with redesigning a Boat Lock
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(...) Another possibility is to not make the connection between the lift lines and the lifted frame rigid, but "slippable" (for instance, instead of using a single line, use a loop that attaches to the frame by wrapping around several fixed pulleys (...) (19 years ago, 4-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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| | Re: Help with redesigning a Boat Lock
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(...) ... (...) ... (...) Rosco beat me to it... anyway... What about using string? With good rollers, the string should not wear out, at least not in one weekend. If the platform & boat are somewhat balanced, you could get away with one connection (...) (19 years ago, 4-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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| | Re: Help with redesigning a Boat Lock
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(...) Nice work!! (...) I would suggest trying string. Just have a loop of string in each corner, coordinated like you do with the screws. Or you can run it as 1 big loop, that would avoid the problem of slippage causing tilting. But you would (...) (19 years ago, 4-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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| | Help with redesigning a Boat Lock
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For our current train layout I have attempted to create a working lift lock. Attempt 1: The lift lock project started about a year ago. My first designs used a scissor type construction ( XXXXX ) To try to raise the water, but there was not (...) (19 years ago, 4-May-05, to lugnet.technic, lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto)
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| | Re: hydraulic steering
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(...) That should read 'pneumatic steering'. Sorry for the typo. (19 years ago, 4-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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| | hydraulic steering
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When you guys build those big actros trucks et al, how do you fit in a hydraulic steering system? Do you use a gear method to operate the valve? If not then how? Do you have any sketches of the setup that you could post? Thanks a bunch! (19 years ago, 4-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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| | GBC module screw and stepper
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Hi, Both of my modules are complete. You can find pictures at (URL) thanks to philo a movie at (URL) (19 years ago, 4-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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| | Re: Build with Legos, be a part of history
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In lugnet.mediawatch, Duane Hess wrote: (snip) (...) 9?? That seems overly complex. (...) or Moonbases! Cool. Someone's been cribbing ideas from the GBC activities I guess. (19 years ago, 3-May-05, to lugnet.mediawatch, lugnet.technic)
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| | Re: Pneumatic hexapod omni-Directional 2 (repost)
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(...) Thanks David! You can see its rather unattractive predecessor here: (URL) of the goals of the remakes I posted was to make them look more elegant, by managing part colors, and hose routings more carefully. (...) There are movies of Quad242 and (...) (19 years ago, 2-May-05, to lugnet.technic)
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