Subject:
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Re: More Heat Testing
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.storage
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Date:
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Fri, 3 Mar 2000 23:01:46 GMT
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Viewed:
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2854 times
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Over the past few years I have had a chance to play w/several types of
ABS/plastics and various heating elements(1) to make race car body parts(2).
Lego ABS melts at about 220 degres easily. A 15watt soldering iron can cut
right thru them w/scorching, anything above 350 degres sustained "will"
scorch/burn/blister them beyond any use.
The polymers lose their grip after being in the heat too long. The injection
molding process is a controled enviroment, usualy in the range of 200 - 300
degrees. The liquid state is required to squeeze more ABS into as little
space as possible for stiffness of final product.
Be forewarned tho... ANY plastic in a "warmed" liquid state is extremely
dangerous! It sticks and then it burns, 2nd and 3rd degree burns are easily
achived in a split second.
For the freezer test... Liquid nitrogen!!! muh ha haha!!!
Fred
http://legocork.webjump.com/
1) Soldering irons, bunsen burners (w/plastic parts in glass and steel
containers), placed on top of kerosene heaters (also in glass or steel), in
various engine compartment places to check for warpage of said made parts
(2).
2) Head and tail light blanks for mini-stock cars, intake scoops for
aspiration and brake ventilation, misc. legos of auto manufacturers.
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Message has 1 Reply:
 | | Re: More Heat Testing
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| (...) Thanx for the info, Fred. Do you happen to know at what temperature the bricks start to lose there grippiness? I'm not concerned that my attic will reach 220 degrees, but 150 might be a possibility. eric (25 years ago, 4-Mar-00, to lugnet.storage)
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Message is in Reply To:
| | Re: More Heat Testing
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| (...) You might also try putting some sort of load on the bricks in the oven. Lego parts stored in an attic would most likely be stored tubs or boxes in which case the bricks on the bottom would be compressed by the bricks above. Bricks might get (...) (25 years ago, 1-Mar-00, to lugnet.storage)
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