Subject:
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Re: Interior Doors?
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.space
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Date:
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Wed, 13 Jun 2001 15:49:04 GMT
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Viewed:
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436 times
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In lugnet.space, William R. Ward writes:
> "Scott C. Beaton" <ovlov80@yahoo.com> writes:
> > I made some sliding doors for "The Artemis" that I feel are both eficient
> > and "futuristic" seen in the lower part of this photo
> >
> > http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=33480
>
> Very clever! I think I'll use this idea. Do I need to give you
> credit when I publish the result? ;-)
Actually, you can give credit to me! ;-)
But seriously, I've used this door design for quite some time, and I wasn't
the first either. I would say that it's been around long enough so that you
don't hafta worry about credit. :)
BTW, for anyone that cares, since you can make those sliding doors 1 plate
and 1 tile thick, you can make interesting variants, such as using..
-- transparent 4x6 plates, if you have any;
-- transparent 4x4 hinge plates, if you have any;
-- car sunroof plates with the glass pieces in them;
-- decorated tiles (arrows and stuff);
-- using 1x2x1 thin walls/panels as door handles (for you, and in case of
onboard power failure)
If it wasn't clear to you (but probly was), the door when flat should occupy
either 5x6 or 6x6, cuz when on-end 6 wide will give you a nice 5 brick high
doorway. Also, the doortracks tend to be a bit on the tight side, that is,
the doors don't usually slide open/shut by themselves.
Door Design #2 --------------
I haven't seen this design for a bit, but it works and I still have it in
one of my models. You can make "flip-up doors" where sliding ones won't fit.
This takes a bit of clearance, but you can fix that somewhat.. details
follow the basic construction.
BASIC CONSTRUCTION
1) The Door: 5 high, 4 wide, and 1 thick (put a window or trans. brick in
for fun :);
2) Put 2 1x2 tilt bearing hinges on the top, both facing the same way (of
course);
3) Mount the door in a 6.3 high x 4 wide space, The Doorway, with a beam or
plate along the top so the hinges can grab on (a single beam/plate should
span the door way for best results);
4) Put a tiled 2x4 area on the floor under the door: 1x4 of that area should
be right under the door when it closes, and 1x4 of that area should be on
the "flip" side of the door so the door won't hit studs when it opens/closes.
The door "locks" nicely with the tile when fully shut and won't flop around
if your doorframe is nice and tight.
Note: 1x2 grilled tiles can be used in step 4, but they should be laid in a
line like this |||| to make a 2x4 area, not like this ==. If you want pix, LMK.
DETAILS
You can also make the door multi-hinged so that it doesn't take up so much
space when flipping up/down. Put in more 1x2 tilt bearing hinges so that the
door more or less "curls up" when opening. This will require more space up
near any ceiling so that the door can curl up. However, using this method
means you'll have almost no room for a window.
Questions? Clarifications? LMK
-Tom McD.
when replying, Spamcake.. not just a hairgel, but a way of life.
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Message has 1 Reply:
 | | Re: Interior Doors?
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| (...) [...] (...) I built a mock-up of this design last night, and it was very tight. But it worked quite well. (...) [...] An interesting idea as well... I just thought of a variation on that idea which may prove even more useful, since doors (...) (23 years ago, 13-Jun-01, to lugnet.space)
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