Subject:
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Re: How about ideas for new elements?
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.robotics
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Date:
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Wed, 4 Apr 2001 19:04:16 GMT
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Original-From:
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John Barnes <barnes@sensors.=ihatespam=com>
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Viewed:
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1151 times
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I applaud 100%! Great work! I like to think that if the Lego designers
can have new bits for new models, so can we!!!!
I appear to have duplicated just about everthing you've been doing :)
As far as the threaded rod business goes;
I've been buying 10-24 threaded nylon rod and using that as leadscrew.
It works great. I have been turning the threads down at one or both ends
to make an interference fit inside the standard technic axle coupler. It
works nicely having a slipping action not unlike the white gear if the
nut riding up the thread gets to the limit of travel.
Nylon threading is benign because it doesn't wear out the technic holes.
I have made a few special "nuts" by installing small lengths of 10-24
tapped 1/4" diam brass tube inside slightly drilled out technic parts.
You can build all sorts of interesting mechanical systems with these
parts - mechanical subsititutes for pneumatic cylinders with at least
as much force capacity as their compressed air counterparts, linear motion
devices for making plotting mechanisms, etc etc
I wonder if we need a new lugnet subgroup so purists can avoid having
to read these terrible goings ons and thus don't get too shell-shocked
- how about lugnet.technic.grinders :)
JB
Thomas Avery wrote:
> I've modified quite a few of my parts to create new ones. For those of us
> lucky to have tens of thousands of pieces in our collection, cutting up a
> few pieces doesn't hurt too much.
>
> Axles can be cut to just about any length under 12L. I was making 5L axles
> long before I ever saw them in any sets.
>
> Threaded axles are extremely rare, but extremely useful. I own only one 10L
> and I never use it for fear of warping it even more than it is, or even
> breaking it. My solution is 3/16" bolts (or threaded rod- cut to fit). You
> have to be careful when tightening the nuts as the pressure can easily
> damage the plastic bricks. One way to avoid this is to make the bolt a
> little longer than needed and put two nuts on the end with a lock washer in
> between them.
> The first nut (against the plastic) need only be snug, while the second nut
> can be very tight (just remember to hold the first one with pliers or a
> wrench). The lock washer keeps the nuts tight as your plastic model rotates.
>
> I never seem to have a link or liftarm (1/2 and full brick widths) of the
> right length, so cutting longer ones is a good option, especially the bent
> full width links (or bent studless beams). See Jennifer Clark's response to
> the original message.
>
> Also, the 1x4 liftarm with the full brick-width end (part #2825:
> http://w3.one.net/~hughesj/technica/registry/plate/plate_3.html ) is quite
> annoying because I have a lot of them but I find more uses for a 1x4 liftarm
> that is all 1/2 width. Lego is now making these and I have a few, but I've
> taken to slicing off part of the full end of the old liftarms to make them
> all 1/2 width. I've also cut the entire full width end off to make a 1x3
> link with a cross-axle hole at one end and a smooth hole at the other. This
> new piece
> can be useful.
>
> I also find problems with the links having smooth holes when I want
> cross-axle holes, and having cross-axle holes when I want smooth holes. My
> solution to the latter problem is to bore it out with a 3/16" drill bit.
>
> The new 5.2L axles with a collar are a neat part. Long before I saw these I
> was supergluing a 1/2 bushing to a normal axle.
>
> Anyway, these are only my personal experiences in modifying my bricks. If
> you're a Lego purist who is cringing in your seat, well, sorry. My
> philosophy is that if you can make a part from an existing one, then it's
> still all Lego. After all, when Lego needs a special piece for a model they
> just make a new one.
>
> T. J.
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Message has 2 Replies:
 | | Re: How about ideas for new elements?
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| I would like to try using threaded nylon rods. Where can you buy them? I've only used steel threaded rods to restrain large axial forces (e.g. in a crane turntable). I've also used smooth 3/16" bar stock when I needed a very stiff and strong axle (I (...) (24 years ago, 4-Apr-01, to lugnet.robotics)
| | | Re: How about ideas for new elements?
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| (...) I think a sub group for 'modifiers' is a good idea. I haven't cut up any pieces myself, broken loads, but never sawn any up. What I will admit to is strenghtening parts, particulary universal joints. I bind the ends with sellotape as the (...) (24 years ago, 5-Apr-01, to lugnet.robotics)
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