Subject:
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Re: Which glue?
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.parts.mod
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Date:
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Fri, 6 Apr 2007 08:13:42 GMT
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Viewed:
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10674 times
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In lugnet.parts.mod, Ondrew Hartigan wrote:
> 2part epoxy. it's thick which is why i don't use it, but it will be perfect
> for your application. it's also non cunductive. it smells horible when
> uncured but is as strong as abs when cured. you can get it at most auto
> parts stores for around $5 a tube.
Epoxy works like wood glue, in that it needs to permeate the surface of the
materials that it is bonding in order to get anything more than a light
adhesion. At my last job, when we were epoxying resin tooling board together,
we'd regularly use wafers of 1/8" scrap ABS under the clamp pads because it was
so easy to pop them loose if the epoxy flowed around them, and it was a lot
faster to throw them out than it was to peel the epoxy off the rubber clamp
shoes. Epoxy also won't adhere well to glass, as glass is a non-porous surface,
just like metal (we also used to epoxy over our huge table saw bed because it
was easy to shave the epoxy drips off with a shop knife blade).
Of all the solutions that have been tossed out, I'd actually say that silicone
sounds like the most durable option that can be obtained easily. Silicone caulk
carries a trace of solvent (hence the vinegar smell) that will allow it to bond
very well with ABS (I tried to shave some silicone off of ABS parts at my last
job, but ended up having to scrap them all because it wasn't possible to do it
without visibly damaging the parts), and it obviously sticks well to glass,
since that's the only thing that's used to make the vertical seams in fishtanks.
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Message is in Reply To:
| | Re: Which glue?
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| (...) 2part epoxy. it's thick which is why i don't use it, but it will be perfect for your application. it's also non cunductive. it smells horible when uncured but is as strong as abs when cured. you can get it at most auto parts stores for around (...) (18 years ago, 9-Feb-07, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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