 | | Re: RobotWars in Sweden
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(...) I suppose so :) I spent a great deal of time on (URL) prior to building my robot. The perhaps greatest inspiration since a long time is this page, however: (URL) from the already mentioned rtlT event "Smash'em up derby": (URL) for all the kind (...) (20 years ago, 13-Mar-05, to lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto, lugnet.loc.se)
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| | Re: A small car
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(...) It's a solid first attempt. I'd recommend using tiles on some of the studded surfaces if possible. Spoilers are tough. I haven't come up with a satisfactory solution beyond the big racing type spoiler found on my Mustang. For detail, I think (...) (20 years ago, 13-Mar-05, to lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto, lugnet.build)
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| | Re: Hailfire attachment points
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(...) as to CoG and Wheel Center, if the Center of Gravity is above the centerline of the then balancing becomes a monumental task. If the Center of Gravity IS the centerline of the wheels rotation (or even really close in to it) , severe gerbilling (...) (20 years ago, 13-Mar-05, to lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto)
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| | Re: Hailfire attachment points
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(...) i think i learned about deep links... you have to click the image AFTER you click the image.... (geesh) (URL) (20 years ago, 13-Mar-05, to lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto)
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| | Re: Hailfire attachment points
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(...) This is what i have so far: (Iain, these are large pic's so dont whine -- i warned you) this was my 3rd attempt. (URL) (after moderation) (i THINK these are the deep links, if they dont work... tough) (URL) was hard to get the spacing on the (...) (20 years ago, 13-Mar-05, to lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto)
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| | Re: Hailfire attachment points
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(...) I have used the Hailfire wheel as a pivot point for a bridge. I locked down the Hailfire wheel to a base. I then attached a truss to a frame work between 2 Hailfire wheels. Each Hailfire wheel has 6 gears that run on the inside toothed part of (...) (20 years ago, 13-Mar-05, to lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto, FTX)
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| | Re: Hailfire attachment points
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(...) I recall seeing pics on BS that used soccer/basketballs placed within the inner rim to make a nice large turntable. I don't know if that helps, but I thought I'd just mention it. Legoswami (20 years ago, 13-Mar-05, to lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto)
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| | Re: Hailfire attachment points
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(...) I can't believe you have that many seats, all at once. That looks quite impressive Iain. Ben (20 years ago, 13-Mar-05, to lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto)
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| | Re: RobotWars in Sweden
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"Tobbe Arnesson" <StPnAtM@lotek.nu> wrote in message news:ID733n.1913@lugnet.com... (...) the (...) (URL) (...) controller/servos (...) Fun and awesome pictures of awesome and magnificient robots! Have you all been inspired by the television series (...) (20 years ago, 13-Mar-05, to lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto, lugnet.loc.se)
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| | A small car
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This is a little Town car I built recently. (URL) it's tough to build small detailed vehicles, especially when you're trying to make them look like real cars. Calum (20 years ago, 13-Mar-05, to lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto, lugnet.announce.moc)
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| | Re: Hailfire attachment points
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(...) I think Joe mighta meant "below the line passing throught the wheel COG", which does tend to help with lateral stability. But I could be wrong... WRT the subject of droid wheels, you may be able to get something happening using wheels placed (...) (20 years ago, 13-Mar-05, to lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto)
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| | Re: Hailfire attachment points
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(...) If the CoG is *not* below the centre of the wheel, the vehicle will move. That's how it works. :) Iain (20 years ago, 13-Mar-05, to lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto)
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| | Re: Hailfire attachment points
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(...) Having thought about such and done a fair amount of research on such. I would submit that A) the optimum # of POC (point of contact) is 3 and B) for Stability sake, the COG needs to be below the center of the wheel. These are the features I (...) (20 years ago, 13-Mar-05, to lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto)
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| | Re: Hailfire attachment points
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(...) Here are some concept photos of one method I toyed with... (URL) (20 years ago, 13-Mar-05, to lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto)
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| | Re: Hailfire attachment points
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(...) I ran into the same problem a few weeks ago, when I ordered 3 off of BrickLink to build a model of the HUSS Topple Tower. Here's what I came up with: (URL) seats are attached with 2x1 bricks pressed into the slot, then a 2x4 plate coming out (...) (20 years ago, 12-Mar-05, to lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto)
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| | Hailfire attachment points
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I need ideas of ways to attach "stuff" to those Hailfire droid wheels. Lets just pretend i came up with an idea ALL by myself(1) to make an RC car based on this: (URL) tips on driving one of those wheels? Chris 1 - some people with SAY it was there (...) (20 years ago, 12-Mar-05, to lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto)
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| | Re: RC racing track width
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I would say the track should be at least 5 feet wide. The fun-nest tracks, especially for first time racers are wide and simple. If you make them complicated people just get frustrated. The enjoyment really comes when you can get a good flow going (...) (20 years ago, 12-Mar-05, to lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto)
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| | RC racing track width
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Hey guys, Assuming each car needs about a foot wide, would the minimum track width for RC Racing be around 3-4 feet? Calum (20 years ago, 12-Mar-05, to lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto)
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| | Laser Level
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The Laser Level is awesome. Just tried it out to level my train table. Setup the laser to cast a line 2 bricks above the top of the table. Took a 3 high tower of 2x2 bricks, placed on each corner of the table, and adjusted each leg so the laser (...) (20 years ago, 12-Mar-05, to lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto)
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| | Re: Pics: RobotWars in Sweden
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(...) "I can't believe you said that" - DK (20 years ago, 12-Mar-05, to lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto)
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