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I'm working on a module for the PNLTC display at GATS next year (in Feb) and
I'm interested in building up a bit of a Lego landscape similar to the GMLTC
modules.
Now don't go thinking I've totaly abandoned plywood. I'm still a
dyed-in-the-wool plywooder. I don't have enough bricks for anything else :)
But, I'd like to build up a 5 to 6 brick layer that I can use for some
relief in the terrain. And of course, I'd like to do it with the fewest
number of bricks possible.
I seem to recal quite a discussion here a year or two ago between Mike
Poindexter and some of the GMLTC John's (1, 2 or 3, maybe all of them :)
about the honeycomb structure they used in their modules. And I think there
was a web site where some of this was documented. Could someone point me to
this, or alternately, attempt to describe, in text, the method they use? I
have several structures I've been playing with but it seems silly not to
look at what others have used successfully.
I'm open to any other suggestions people have. My goals are that it has to
be sturdy, and it needs to use as few bricks as possible. These two goals
are in tension, but I'm sure I can come up with a happy compromise.
Now, before any of you go flogging me for not checking the mail archives,
let me tell you that I tried. But mail search has been disabled :(
(Apparently this is causing (or contributing) to some instability in the
servers, so Todd has shut it donw for a while.) So that wasn't much help.
And slogging through thousands of posts by hand seemed daunting.
Thus, my message. Besides, more than one of us may learn something this way!
Thanks in advance for any help on this.
Kim
PNLTC member
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Kim Toll wrote:
> I'm working on a module for the PNLTC display at GATS next year (in Feb) and
> I'm interested in building up a bit of a Lego landscape similar to the GMLTC
> modules.
>
> Now don't go thinking I've totaly abandoned plywood. I'm still a
> dyed-in-the-wool plywooder. I don't have enough bricks for anything else :)
> But, I'd like to build up a 5 to 6 brick layer that I can use for some
> relief in the terrain. And of course, I'd like to do it with the fewest
> number of bricks possible.
>
> I seem to recal quite a discussion here a year or two ago between Mike
> Poindexter and some of the GMLTC John's (1, 2 or 3, maybe all of them :)
> about the honeycomb structure they used in their modules. And I think there
> was a web site where some of this was documented. Could someone point me to
> this, or alternately, attempt to describe, in text, the method they use?
Hey Kim-
Glad to help out someone off the plywood;-) John Gerlach posted on his Brickbay
page the pattern we at the GMLTC have perfected. Check it out here:
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=1734
Be careful up there at 5 bricks high-- you might need oxygen;-D
-John (J-2)
> I
> have several structures I've been playing with but it seems silly not to
> look at what others have used successfully.
>
> I'm open to any other suggestions people have. My goals are that it has to
> be sturdy, and it needs to use as few bricks as possible. These two goals
> are in tension, but I'm sure I can come up with a happy compromise.
>
> Now, before any of you go flogging me for not checking the mail archives,
> let me tell you that I tried. But mail search has been disabled :(
> (Apparently this is causing (or contributing) to some instability in the
> servers, so Todd has shut it donw for a while.) So that wasn't much help.
> And slogging through thousands of posts by hand seemed daunting.
>
> Thus, my message. Besides, more than one of us may learn something this way!
>
> Thanks in advance for any help on this.
>
> Kim
> PNLTC member
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In lugnet.trains, John Neal writes:
> Kim Toll wrote:
> > I'm interested in building up a bit of a Lego landscape similar
> > to the GMLTC modules.
> ...the pattern we at the GMLTC have perfected. Check it out here:
> http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=1734
I too am interested in the "honeycomb" pattern details. No sense
"re-inventing the wheel". The link seems to only provide a hint
though - it looks like one step in an instruction book of dozens?
SRC
StRuCtures
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In lugnet.trains, Steve Chapple writes:
> In lugnet.trains, John Neal writes:
> > Kim Toll wrote:
> > > I'm interested in building up a bit of a Lego landscape similar
> > > to the GMLTC modules.
>
> > ...the pattern we at the GMLTC have perfected. Check it out here:
> > http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=1734
>
> I too am interested in the "honeycomb" pattern details. No sense
> "re-inventing the wheel". The link seems to only provide a hint
> though - it looks like one step in an instruction book of dozens?
Nope, it's all you need (for pictoral reference, anyway). From left to right:
2x2 bricks, in towers. Height on these will vary depending on how
high/stable you want your structure. IIRC, GMLTC uses 5 high towers, Mike
P. uses 6 high. Both recommend not going much higher, or it gets unstable.
2x4 bricks, bracing and interlocking the towers. This would be done between
tower sections (every 5 or 6 bricks high), and also just below the top layer.
2x4 bricks, as the building surface.
I've been thinking about the possibilities of doing 5 or 6 high modules, to
let us work some terrain variation in. The real hitch with that is you
start needing to store them, and you start needing to worry about
transporting them.
James
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James Brown wrote:
> In lugnet.trains, Steve Chapple writes:
> > In lugnet.trains, John Neal writes:
> > > Kim Toll wrote:
> > > > I'm interested in building up a bit of a Lego landscape similar
> > > > to the GMLTC modules.
> >
> > > ...the pattern we at the GMLTC have perfected. Check it out here:
> > > http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=1734
> >
> > I too am interested in the "honeycomb" pattern details. No sense
> > "re-inventing the wheel". The link seems to only provide a hint
> > though - it looks like one step in an instruction book of dozens?
>
> Nope, it's all you need (for pictoral reference, anyway). From left to right:
>
> 2x2 bricks, in towers. Height on these will vary depending on how
> high/stable you want your structure. IIRC, GMLTC uses 5 high towers, Mike
> P. uses 6 high. Both recommend not going much higher, or it gets unstable.
>
> 2x4 bricks, bracing and interlocking the towers. This would be done between
> tower sections (every 5 or 6 bricks high), and also just below the top layer.
>
> 2x4 bricks, as the building surface.
Pretty much it. The green bricks are your outside wall, and you tie into the
wall every 5-6 bricks high. That is why you need the rim of 1x4s, to avoid
"disturbing" the alternating binding appearance from the outside. It's a very
clean and elegant design which maximizes common bricks AND is nice and strong.
-John (FU set to org)
>
>
> I've been thinking about the possibilities of doing 5 or 6 high modules, to
> let us work some terrain variation in. The real hitch with that is you
> start needing to store them, and you start needing to worry about
> transporting them.
>
> James
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In lugnet.trains, John Neal writes:
> James Brown wrote:
> > > In lugnet.trains, John Neal writes:
> > >
> > > > ...the pattern we at the GMLTC have perfected. Check it out here:
> > > > http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=1734
> >
> > 2x2 bricks, in towers. Height on these will vary depending on how
> > high/stable you want your structure. IIRC, GMLTC uses 5 high towers, Mike
> > P. uses 6 high. Both recommend not going much higher, or it gets unstable.
> >
> > 2x4 bricks, bracing and interlocking the towers. This would be done between
> > tower sections (every 5 or 6 bricks high), and also just below the top
> > layer. 2x4 bricks, as the building surface.
>
> Pretty much it. The green bricks are your outside wall, and you tie into the
> wall every 5-6 bricks high. That is why you need the rim of 1x4s, to avoid
> "disturbing" the alternating binding appearance from the outside. It's a very
> clean and elegant design which maximizes common bricks AND is nice and strong.
>
> -John (FU set to org)
John & James,
Thanks much for the pointer and the explanation. This is great! Its
exactly the info I was looking for.
Thanks.
Kim
P.S. Why the follow up to .org? Wasn't this train building related?
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John Neal wrote:
>
> James Brown wrote:
>
> > In lugnet.trains, Steve Chapple writes:
> > > In lugnet.trains, John Neal writes:
> > > > Kim Toll wrote:
> > > > > I'm interested in building up a bit of a Lego landscape similar
> > > > > to the GMLTC modules.
> > >
> > > > ...the pattern we at the GMLTC have perfected. Check it out here:
> > > > http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=1734
> > >
> > > I too am interested in the "honeycomb" pattern details. No sense
> > > "re-inventing the wheel". The link seems to only provide a hint
> > > though - it looks like one step in an instruction book of dozens?
> >
> > Nope, it's all you need (for pictoral reference, anyway). From left to right:
> >
> > 2x2 bricks, in towers. Height on these will vary depending on how
> > high/stable you want your structure. IIRC, GMLTC uses 5 high towers, Mike
> > P. uses 6 high. Both recommend not going much higher, or it gets unstable.
> >
> > 2x4 bricks, bracing and interlocking the towers. This would be done between
> > tower sections (every 5 or 6 bricks high), and also just below the top layer.
> >
> > 2x4 bricks, as the building surface.
>
> Pretty much it. The green bricks are your outside wall, and you tie into the
> wall every 5-6 bricks high. That is why you need the rim of 1x4s, to avoid
> "disturbing" the alternating binding appearance from the outside. It's a very
> clean and elegant design which maximizes common bricks AND is nice and strong.
>
> -John (FU set to org)
>
> >
> >
> > I've been thinking about the possibilities of doing 5 or 6 high modules, to
> > let us work some terrain variation in. The real hitch with that is you
> > start needing to store them, and you start needing to worry about
> > transporting them.
> >
> > James
Are you guys, GMLTC, switching to a green surface? If not, why not? To
expensive? Don't see the need?
Just curious,
Chris
--
PGP public key available upon request.
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Christopher Masi wrote:
> John Neal wrote:
> >
> > James Brown wrote:
> >
> > > In lugnet.trains, Steve Chapple writes:
> > > > In lugnet.trains, John Neal writes:
> > > > > Kim Toll wrote:
> > > > > > I'm interested in building up a bit of a Lego landscape similar
> > > > > > to the GMLTC modules.
> > > >
> > > > > ...the pattern we at the GMLTC have perfected. Check it out here:
> > > > > http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=1734
> > > >
> > > > I too am interested in the "honeycomb" pattern details. No sense
> > > > "re-inventing the wheel". The link seems to only provide a hint
> > > > though - it looks like one step in an instruction book of dozens?
> > >
> > > Nope, it's all you need (for pictoral reference, anyway). From left to right:
> > >
> > > 2x2 bricks, in towers. Height on these will vary depending on how
> > > high/stable you want your structure. IIRC, GMLTC uses 5 high towers, Mike
> > > P. uses 6 high. Both recommend not going much higher, or it gets unstable.
> > >
> > > 2x4 bricks, bracing and interlocking the towers. This would be done between
> > > tower sections (every 5 or 6 bricks high), and also just below the top layer.
> > >
> > > 2x4 bricks, as the building surface.
> >
> > Pretty much it. The green bricks are your outside wall, and you tie into the
> > wall every 5-6 bricks high. That is why you need the rim of 1x4s, to avoid
> > "disturbing" the alternating binding appearance from the outside. It's a very
> > clean and elegant design which maximizes common bricks AND is nice and strong.
> >
> > -John (FU set to org)
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > I've been thinking about the possibilities of doing 5 or 6 high modules, to
> > > let us work some terrain variation in. The real hitch with that is you
> > > start needing to store them, and you start needing to worry about
> > > transporting them.
> > >
> > > James
>
> Are you guys, GMLTC, switching to a green surface? If not, why not? To
> expensive? Don't see the need?
Green, tan, brown, dark gray, 220, 221....whatever it takes;-) In our group, expense
is not an issue-- it was always about availability with reason. Now that the earth
tones are appearing in bulk, you can rest assured that there will be no more "red
earth" (at least on the *top* layer;-)
-John
>
> Just curious,
> Chris
> --
> PGP public key available upon request.
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John Neal wrote:
>
> Christopher Masi wrote:
>
> > John Neal wrote:
> > >
> > > James Brown wrote:
> > >
> > > > In lugnet.trains, Steve Chapple writes:
> > > > > In lugnet.trains, John Neal writes:
> > > > > > Kim Toll wrote:
> > > > > > > I'm interested in building up a bit of a Lego landscape similar
> > > > > > > to the GMLTC modules.
> > > > >
> > > > > > ...the pattern we at the GMLTC have perfected. Check it out here:
> > > > > > http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=1734
> > > > >
> > > > > I too am interested in the "honeycomb" pattern details. No sense
> > > > > "re-inventing the wheel". The link seems to only provide a hint
> > > > > though - it looks like one step in an instruction book of dozens?
> > > >
> > > > Nope, it's all you need (for pictoral reference, anyway). From left to right:
> > > >
> > > > 2x2 bricks, in towers. Height on these will vary depending on how
> > > > high/stable you want your structure. IIRC, GMLTC uses 5 high towers, Mike
> > > > P. uses 6 high. Both recommend not going much higher, or it gets unstable.
> > > >
> > > > 2x4 bricks, bracing and interlocking the towers. This would be done between
> > > > tower sections (every 5 or 6 bricks high), and also just below the top layer.
> > > >
> > > > 2x4 bricks, as the building surface.
> > >
> > > Pretty much it. The green bricks are your outside wall, and you tie into the
> > > wall every 5-6 bricks high. That is why you need the rim of 1x4s, to avoid
> > > "disturbing" the alternating binding appearance from the outside. It's a very
> > > clean and elegant design which maximizes common bricks AND is nice and strong.
> > >
> > > -John (FU set to org)
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I've been thinking about the possibilities of doing 5 or 6 high modules, to
> > > > let us work some terrain variation in. The real hitch with that is you
> > > > start needing to store them, and you start needing to worry about
> > > > transporting them.
> > > >
> > > > James
> >
> > Are you guys, GMLTC, switching to a green surface? If not, why not? To
> > expensive? Don't see the need?
>
> Green, tan, brown, dark gray, 220, 221....whatever it takes;-) In our group, expense
> is not an issue-- it was always about availability with reason. Now that the earth
> tones are appearing in bulk, you can rest assured that there will be no more "red
> earth" (at least on the *top* layer;-)
>
> -John
>
> >
> > Just curious,
> > Chris
> > --
> > PGP public key available upon request.
Wow, now that will look truly great. Don't get me wrong, the GMLTC layouts
always looked great, but everything was well red. I kinda looked like New Jersey
at crop planting time. The green base-plates at the NELUG's layout (it was NELUG
I am thinking of wasn't it?) looked great, and extending earth tones to a GMLTC layout...wow.
Chris
--
PGP public key available upon request.
You know, no one has ever asked...
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
Chris
Chris
--
PGP public key available upon request.
You know, no one has ever asked...
I'll take the bait, what is it?
BTW, sent to list and you personally
Thanx,
Mark Millére
LUGnet # 525
Visit Milissa's LEGO store, Millére's Spares
<http://www.brickbay.com/store.asp?i=MMillere>
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Mark & Milissa Millére wrote:
>
> Chris
>
> Chris
>
> --
> PGP public key available upon request.
>
> You know, no one has ever asked...
>
> I'll take the bait, what is it?
>
> BTW, sent to list and you personally
>
> Thanx,
>
> Mark Millére
> LUGnet # 525
> Visit Milissa's LEGO store, Millére's Spares
> <http://www.brickbay.com/store.asp?i=MMillere>
Mark,
Oh, a public key is an encryption key (secret spy decoder ring stuff, but for
real[1]). PGP stands for Pretty Good Privacy, and it is a freeware program (
http://www.networkassociates.com/ ) that encrypts files, E-mail, or anything you
do not want everyone else reading. The idea is that you distribute your public
key to the world, and anyone can encrypt messages and send the message to you,
but only you can decrypt the message using your closely held private key. The
important thing is that the public key can only encrypt a message, it cannot
decrypt the message, so it doesn't matter who has the key.
PGP was such a big deal when it came out that the government tried to put the
author in jail because he apparently represented a threat to national security.
After all, he was making it possible for normal people to write E-mail messages
that the government couldn't read.
You can also sign messages, so people can check to see if you really sent the message.
I guess no one has ever asked for my public key because no one has ever wanted
to send me anything important.
Chris
1. Of course, the first thing I did was send myself and encrypted message.
P.S. I have never figured out...OK, I have never tried to figure out how to set
the FUT stuff, so if anyone feels like spinning this thread off to where it
belongs feel free....
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Actually we had the green farm module before they were really selling green
bricks in quantity. Before they were selling the green 2x4s in sets, about
100-150 of them followed me home from the model shop. (They let me keep all
of my creations that had been on my desk when I quit.) Of course, shortly
afterwards they started selling the green bricks, but for a while it was
quite a little collection of rare bricks and colors. (If you had looked
carefully at the old layout there was some gold and silver bricks too, I
think those are still fairly rare.)
-John3
(I never check skypoint's mail anymore it's a refuge for spam. Mail me at
yahoo as jkelly3 instead.)
>
> Wow, now that will look truly great. Don't get me wrong, the GMLTC layouts
> always looked great, but everything was well red. I kinda looked like New Jersey
> at crop planting time. The green base-plates at the NELUG's layout (it was NELUG
> I am thinking of wasn't it?) looked great, and extending earth tones to a GMLTC layout...wow.
>
> Chris
>
> --
> PGP public key available upon request.
>
> You know, no one has ever asked...
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I haven't touched the page I made up in a while, but here it is:
http://www.sirius.com/~latha/lego/modules/standards.htm
Mike Poindexter
PS: Target is carrying the 3033 blue tub here. Perhaps we will see cheap
prices in January. Of course, they will never have the volume to make some
seriously large layouts, but they can cut the cost of a module down.
Kim Toll <kim.toll@intel.com> wrote in message news:G5LKE3.3Iz@lugnet.com...
> I'm working on a module for the PNLTC display at GATS next year (in Feb) • and
> I'm interested in building up a bit of a Lego landscape similar to the • GMLTC
> modules.
>
> Now don't go thinking I've totaly abandoned plywood. I'm still a
> dyed-in-the-wool plywooder. I don't have enough bricks for anything else • :)
> But, I'd like to build up a 5 to 6 brick layer that I can use for some
> relief in the terrain. And of course, I'd like to do it with the fewest
> number of bricks possible.
>
> I seem to recal quite a discussion here a year or two ago between Mike
> Poindexter and some of the GMLTC John's (1, 2 or 3, maybe all of them :)
> about the honeycomb structure they used in their modules. And I think • there
> was a web site where some of this was documented. Could someone point me • to
> this, or alternately, attempt to describe, in text, the method they use? • I
> have several structures I've been playing with but it seems silly not to
> look at what others have used successfully.
>
> I'm open to any other suggestions people have. My goals are that it has • to
> be sturdy, and it needs to use as few bricks as possible. These two goals
> are in tension, but I'm sure I can come up with a happy compromise.
>
> Now, before any of you go flogging me for not checking the mail archives,
> let me tell you that I tried. But mail search has been disabled :(
> (Apparently this is causing (or contributing) to some instability in the
> servers, so Todd has shut it donw for a while.) So that wasn't much help.
> And slogging through thousands of posts by hand seemed daunting.
>
> Thus, my message. Besides, more than one of us may learn something this • way!
>
> Thanks in advance for any help on this.
>
> Kim
> PNLTC member
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My bad. The detail pictures are not in the standards page.
http://www.sirius.com/~latha/lego/modules/standards.htm
Choose lattice.jpg to see the lattice structure up close and overview to see
several modules in progress. I thought I had better pictures than these,
but my memory fails me now. I had to take a 4 month hiatus from Lego for
the nut harvest and am just getting back into the swing.
Mike
Mike Poindexter <lego@poindexter.cc> wrote in message
news:G5Msq8.2KF@lugnet.com...
> I haven't touched the page I made up in a while, but here it is:
>
> http://www.sirius.com/~latha/lego/modules/standards.htm
>
> Mike Poindexter
>
> PS: Target is carrying the 3033 blue tub here. Perhaps we will see cheap
> prices in January. Of course, they will never have the volume to make • some
> seriously large layouts, but they can cut the cost of a module down.
>
> Kim Toll <kim.toll@intel.com> wrote in message • news:G5LKE3.3Iz@lugnet.com...
> > I'm working on a module for the PNLTC display at GATS next year (in Feb) • and
> > I'm interested in building up a bit of a Lego landscape similar to the • GMLTC
> > modules.
> >
> > Now don't go thinking I've totaly abandoned plywood. I'm still a
> > dyed-in-the-wool plywooder. I don't have enough bricks for anything • else
> :)
> > But, I'd like to build up a 5 to 6 brick layer that I can use for some
> > relief in the terrain. And of course, I'd like to do it with the fewest
> > number of bricks possible.
> >
> > I seem to recal quite a discussion here a year or two ago between Mike
> > Poindexter and some of the GMLTC John's (1, 2 or 3, maybe all of them :)
> > about the honeycomb structure they used in their modules. And I think • there
> > was a web site where some of this was documented. Could someone point • me
> to
> > this, or alternately, attempt to describe, in text, the method they use? • I
> > have several structures I've been playing with but it seems silly not to
> > look at what others have used successfully.
> >
> > I'm open to any other suggestions people have. My goals are that it has • to
> > be sturdy, and it needs to use as few bricks as possible. These two • goals
> > are in tension, but I'm sure I can come up with a happy compromise.
> >
> > Now, before any of you go flogging me for not checking the mail • archives,
> > let me tell you that I tried. But mail search has been disabled :(
> > (Apparently this is causing (or contributing) to some instability in the
> > servers, so Todd has shut it donw for a while.) So that wasn't much • help.
> > And slogging through thousands of posts by hand seemed daunting.
> >
> > Thus, my message. Besides, more than one of us may learn something this • way!
> >
> > Thanks in advance for any help on this.
> >
> > Kim
> > PNLTC member
>
>
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
In lugnet.trains, Mike Poindexter writes:
> My bad. The detail pictures are not in the standards page.
>
> http://www.sirius.com/~latha/lego/modules/standards.htm
>
> Choose lattice.jpg to see the lattice structure up close and overview to see
> several modules in progress. I thought I had better pictures than these,
> but my memory fails me now. I had to take a 4 month hiatus from Lego for
> the nut harvest and am just getting back into the swing.
>
> Mike
Thanks Mike,
You have a couple of daunting looking pictures you have up there :\
So how many 3033 tubs does it take you to do, say a 40"x60" module? Just
the 22 brick high build-up, not all the structures & scenery on top of it?
I'm trying to approximate how many bricks its going to take me to do
something like this and I'd appreciate your empirical data. All my data is
based on paper calculations, which, though it bears some resemblance to
reality, is generally not as accurate as real life experience.
Thanks,
Kim
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In lugnet.trains, Kim Toll writes:
> In lugnet.trains, Mike Poindexter writes:
> > My bad. The detail pictures are not in the standards page.
> >
> > http://www.sirius.com/~latha/lego/modules/standards.htm
> >
> > Choose lattice.jpg to see the lattice structure up close and overview to see
> > several modules in progress. I thought I had better pictures than these,
> > but my memory fails me now. I had to take a 4 month hiatus from Lego for
> > the nut harvest and am just getting back into the swing.
> >
> > Mike
>
>
> Thanks Mike,
> You have a couple of daunting looking pictures you have up there :\
Uh, I meant...You have a couple of daunting looking picutures up there! :\
Kim
> So how many 3033 tubs does it take you to do, say a 40"x60" module? Just
> the 22 brick high build-up, not all the structures & scenery on top of it?
> I'm trying to approximate how many bricks its going to take me to do
> something like this and I'd appreciate your empirical data. All my data is
> based on paper calculations, which, though it bears some resemblance to
> reality, is generally not as accurate as real life experience.
>
> Thanks,
> Kim
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I believe from my memory that I can build four 30"x45" modules with about
200 of the blue tubs. It would build 3 normal modules and one 2x4/2x6
hybrid module. The hybrid would use 2x4 for the walls and 2x2 for the
towers, but use 2x6 for the lattice grids and tops.
Your mileage may vary.
Mike
Toll, Kim <kim.toll@intel.com> wrote in message
news:G5n8GM.8MM@lugnet.com...
> In lugnet.trains, Kim Toll writes:
> > In lugnet.trains, Mike Poindexter writes:
> > > My bad. The detail pictures are not in the standards page.
> > >
> > > http://www.sirius.com/~latha/lego/modules/standards.htm
> > >
> > > Choose lattice.jpg to see the lattice structure up close and overview to • see
> > > several modules in progress. I thought I had better pictures than • these,
> > > but my memory fails me now. I had to take a 4 month hiatus from Lego • for
> > > the nut harvest and am just getting back into the swing.
> > >
> > > Mike
> >
> >
> > Thanks Mike,
> > You have a couple of daunting looking pictures you have up there :\
>
> Uh, I meant...You have a couple of daunting looking picutures up there! :\
> Kim
>
> > So how many 3033 tubs does it take you to do, say a 40"x60" module? Just
> > the 22 brick high build-up, not all the structures & scenery on top of • it?
> > I'm trying to approximate how many bricks its going to take me to do
> > something like this and I'd appreciate your empirical data. All my data • is
> > based on paper calculations, which, though it bears some resemblance to
> > reality, is generally not as accurate as real life experience.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Kim
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