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In lugnet.trains, Ondrew Hartigan wrote:
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Hey all,
Well there has been quite a bit of talk about modifying the yet to be
released IR trains so i figured it might be a good idea to consolidate them
into one thread. Here’s a little rundown of what I remember as well as my
X-ACTO knife wielding, dremel tool loving, opinions. =)
In order from least offensive to dremel happy:
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(SNIP)
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2.install a battery pack instead of using AA’s
This is one of my ideas but I still have yet to see if this is even feasible.
Another option is the lithium ion batteries that recently came out. They’re
supposed to be rechargeable and last 2-3 times longer than other
rechargeables.
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(SNIP)
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4.shorten the train base from 30 studs to XX studs
I’ve thought about this for days trying to figure out why someone might want
to do this and I’m still confused. Anyone care to chime in on this? 30 studs
seems perfect for 6-wide engines.
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(SNIP)
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7.completely remove the electronics for installation into odd shaped mocs
This is by far my favorite idea. By removing the electronics and placing them
into a smaller more tightly fitting box you gain the opportunity to put it
into more mocs whether they’re trains or a something completely different.
Another advantage is you can move the receiver eyes to different possibly
more hidden locations and you can provide power to the unit in alternate
methods.
Again this is just my opinion. You’re welcome to disagree.
Ondrew
P.s.. I’ve read a lot of emails on this lately and might have missed
something. If I forgot something please add it to the list.
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I’d like to do a combination of 2, 4 and 7.
Take the batteries out, put them in a 4x14 battery box. Use a 9V lead cut in
half to connect this to the electronics. Cover over the button of the wrong
polarity. Alternatively, for light duty use, use a PP3 battery box and save
train weight.
Use two metal-wheeled 9V train motors in the leading loco and plastic wheeled
motors further down the train, linked with wires. This gives redundancy of
pickups on the two leading motors with an electrically short train for short
isolating track sections (that use tape each end between the track joints). The
plastic wheeled motors stop trailing cars from dragging in the curves, and act
like the middle locos in long American trains.
De-solder the battery clips and output power socket, remove the electronics from
the baseplate. Store the baseplate in your ‘big useless parts’ box. Install
the electronics in the train, with the IR sensors in the least obtrusive place.
The battery system will then control train lights or a motorised crane on the
train by remote control, with the train itself using the conventional
track-powered solution. Use ‘chocolate block’ to attach the battery wires to
the halved 9V lead and the output wires to the other half of the lead, which
connects to the lights or motor.
This also minimises the amount of mods necessary, which helps the train to be
more saleable later if it should be necessary. There’s a possibility of cutting
the IR sensor surrounds out of the baseplate if they are otherwise unremoveable,
and either re-soldering or cutting and re-attaching wires if they go through
small holes. You could put the LEDs through technic brick holes so that they’re
on the outside, but a tidier way is to mount them behind a window in the train -
possibly the round portholes if it’s a Santa Fe loco.
Mark
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Message is in Reply To:
 | | modding the new IR trains
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| Hey all, Well there has been quite a bit of talk about modifying the yet to be released IR trains so i figured it might be a good idea to consolidate them into one thread. Here’s a little rundown of what I remember as well as my X-ACTO knife (...) (18 years ago, 13-Jan-06, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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