 | | | | | |
Hi
Recently I looked into boxes containing some older lego bricks (1970-1985), and
I was very unhappy when I tried to build something. What happend is that these
bricks don't fit anymore easily. I had to force them to be connected. To
deconnect them I had to put (of course) a lot of force on them.
An other problem is that all the white bricks (for sure the older ones) change
colour. Although I keep them in a dark container. For this reason I don't want
to construct my "white" models
(such as the hospital (town) and space shuttle (technic))
because the sunlight (and maybe normal light) makes this problem even worse.
Did someone have the same experience and what can I do.
Guido
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| |
|
I've heard about people putting bricks in a solution of bleach for over a
week to get rid of the "yellowing" of the white bricks.
If anyone has details on this process, I'd like to hear them.
I don't know about the problems with them not fitting properly.
Brad
Guido Heunen <heunen@crys.chem.uva.nl> wrote in message
news:GAAAn3.G8o@lugnet.com...
> Hi
>
> Recently I looked into boxes containing some older lego bricks • (1970-1985), and
> I was very unhappy when I tried to build something. What happend is that • these
> bricks don't fit anymore easily. I had to force them to be connected. To
> deconnect them I had to put (of course) a lot of force on them.
>
>
> An other problem is that all the white bricks (for sure the older ones) • change
> colour. Although I keep them in a dark container. For this reason I don't • want
> to construct my "white" models
> (such as the hospital (town) and space shuttle (technic))
> because the sunlight (and maybe normal light) makes this problem even • worse.
>
> Did someone have the same experience and what can I do.
>
>
> Guido
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
In lugnet.general, Brad Hamilton writes:
> I've heard about people putting bricks in a solution of bleach for over a
> week to get rid of the "yellowing" of the white bricks.
>
> If anyone has details on this process, I'd like to hear them.
>
> I don't know about the problems with them not fitting properly.
>
> SNIP
I combined one part bleech to 3 parts water or less in a container and add
the yellowing LEOGS.
I did this for my white brick and it seems to help, I started the process
about 1 week ago. A few bricks that were severly discolored are still a
little bit discolored.
This was discused a while back.
mark
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| |
|
Hi Guido,
The problem with 99.9% of all old bricks not fitting together well anymore is due
to one simple answer. And that has absolutely nothing to do with storage or heat
(unless you're talking about a fire or oven temperature). It is because the are
made of Cellulose Acetate. That material was in use from 1955-63 in Europe, and
from 1961 (the first North American LEGO) thru 1968. Cellulose Acetate can most
easily be spotted in red and yellow bricks. The red bricks are somewhat lighter
and more orange in color, the yellow bricks have a lighter more "lemon yellow"
color than later bricks. Blue CA looks slightly different than blue ABS, but white
and black bricks are very difficult to tell appart (CA vs. ABS). And in gray, no
CA bricks were ever produced (they came out later), only some CA plates.
ABS plastic started being produced in 1963, but for some reason, the Samsonite
folks (maker of Lego in USA/Canada at the time) must have had a warehouse full of
Cellulose Acetate, because there was still a lot of CA Lego in sets as late as the
late 60's. There are a lot of cases where Samsonite mixed bricks (usually red or
yellow CA, and blue or white ABS). As to the yellowing of bricks, white obviously
has the most yellowing, but blue and gray bricks also exhibit a lot of yellowing.
But most of the yellowing occurs with ABS bricks, not the earlier CA ones.
Hope that helps explain it.
Gary Istok
Guido Heunen wrote:
> Hi
>
> Recently I looked into boxes containing some older lego bricks (1970-1985), and
> I was very unhappy when I tried to build something. What happend is that these
> bricks don't fit anymore easily. I had to force them to be connected. To
> deconnect them I had to put (of course) a lot of force on them.
>
> An other problem is that all the white bricks (for sure the older ones) change
> colour. Although I keep them in a dark container. For this reason I don't want
> to construct my "white" models
> (such as the hospital (town) and space shuttle (technic))
> because the sunlight (and maybe normal light) makes this problem even worse.
>
> Did someone have the same experience and what can I do.
>
> Guido
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| |
|
Gary,
I don't think that is the problem, because I started to play with LEGO in 1976
and I was living in Holland. So I am pretty sure that all my bricks are ABS. I
suspect that even keeping ABS at room temperature the bricks change slightly
over the years. I have know idea if LEGO did long term heating tests on ABS
bricks.
I don't know if it is really wise to bleach your white LEGO's, as being a
chemist, I happen to know that polymers can react with chlorine. I am not
sure whether this is the case for ABS.
Guido
> In lugnet.general, Gary Istok writes:
> Hi Guido,
>
> The problem with 99.9% of all old bricks not fitting together well anymore is • due
> to one simple answer. And that has absolutely nothing to do with storage or • heat
> (unless you're talking about a fire or oven temperature). It is because the • are
> made of Cellulose Acetate. That material was in use from 1955-63 in Europe, • and
> from 1961 (the first North American LEGO) thru 1968. Cellulose Acetate can • most
> easily be spotted in red and yellow bricks. The red bricks are somewhat • lighter
> and more orange in color, the yellow bricks have a lighter more "lemon yellow"
> color than later bricks. Blue CA looks slightly different than blue ABS, but • white
> and black bricks are very difficult to tell appart (CA vs. ABS). And in gray, • no
> CA bricks were ever produced (they came out later), only some CA plates.
>
> ABS plastic started being produced in 1963, but for some reason, the Samsonite
> folks (maker of Lego in USA/Canada at the time) must have had a warehouse full • of
> Cellulose Acetate, because there was still a lot of CA Lego in sets as late as • the
> late 60's. There are a lot of cases where Samsonite mixed bricks (usually red • or
> yellow CA, and blue or white ABS). As to the yellowing of bricks, white • obviously
> has the most yellowing, but blue and gray bricks also exhibit a lot of • yellowing.
> But most of the yellowing occurs with ABS bricks, not the earlier CA ones.
>
> Hope that helps explain it.
> Gary Istok
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| |
|
Guido, I should have asked the question "are there gaps (spaces) between the
bricks when you build with them. Are they twisted slightly (warped) when you look
at one of the longer edges of a 2x4 brick?" If not then you do have only ABS, and
some of the older LEGO might have reacted slightly to heat (kept in a hot/cold
attic over many years).
Gary Istok
Guido Heunen wrote:
> Gary,
>
> I don't think that is the problem, because I started to play with LEGO in 1976
> and I was living in Holland. So I am pretty sure that all my bricks are ABS. I
> suspect that even keeping ABS at room temperature the bricks change slightly
> over the years. I have know idea if LEGO did long term heating tests on ABS
> bricks.
>
> I don't know if it is really wise to bleach your white LEGO's, as being a
> chemist, I happen to know that polymers can react with chlorine. I am not
> sure whether this is the case for ABS.
>
> Guido
>
> > In lugnet.general, Gary Istok writes:
> > Hi Guido,
> >
> > The problem with 99.9% of all old bricks not fitting together well anymore is • due
> > to one simple answer. And that has absolutely nothing to do with storage or • heat
> > (unless you're talking about a fire or oven temperature). It is because the • are
> > made of Cellulose Acetate. That material was in use from 1955-63 in Europe, • and
> > from 1961 (the first North American LEGO) thru 1968. Cellulose Acetate can • most
> > easily be spotted in red and yellow bricks. The red bricks are somewhat • lighter
> > and more orange in color, the yellow bricks have a lighter more "lemon yellow"
> > color than later bricks. Blue CA looks slightly different than blue ABS, but • white
> > and black bricks are very difficult to tell appart (CA vs. ABS). And in gray, • no
> > CA bricks were ever produced (they came out later), only some CA plates.
> >
> > ABS plastic started being produced in 1963, but for some reason, the Samsonite
> > folks (maker of Lego in USA/Canada at the time) must have had a warehouse full • of
> > Cellulose Acetate, because there was still a lot of CA Lego in sets as late as • the
> > late 60's. There are a lot of cases where Samsonite mixed bricks (usually red • or
> > yellow CA, and blue or white ABS). As to the yellowing of bricks, white • obviously
> > has the most yellowing, but blue and gray bricks also exhibit a lot of • yellowing.
> > But most of the yellowing occurs with ABS bricks, not the earlier CA ones.
> >
> > Hope that helps explain it.
> > Gary Istok
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| |
|
Correct. The problem is present especially with older roofbricks. I have
plenty of them in BLUE, about half of thme is unusaeble cause they are
"skewed". Thay also are lighter blue in colour.
There is nothing to do about it AFAIK. I would like to fix mine, bit just
not possible.
Gary Istok <gistok@umich.edu> wrote in message
news:3AB23436.B2914F16@umich.edu...
> Hi Guido,
>
> The problem with 99.9% of all old bricks not fitting together well anymore • is due
> to one simple answer. And that has absolutely nothing to do with storage • or heat
> (unless you're talking about a fire or oven temperature). It is because • the are
> made of Cellulose Acetate. That material was in use from 1955-63 in • Europe, and
> from 1961 (the first North American LEGO) thru 1968. Cellulose Acetate • can most
> easily be spotted in red and yellow bricks. The red bricks are somewhat • lighter
> and more orange in color, the yellow bricks have a lighter more "lemon • yellow"
> color than later bricks. Blue CA looks slightly different than blue ABS, • but white
> and black bricks are very difficult to tell appart (CA vs. ABS). And in • gray, no
> CA bricks were ever produced (they came out later), only some CA plates.
>
> ABS plastic started being produced in 1963, but for some reason, the • Samsonite
> folks (maker of Lego in USA/Canada at the time) must have had a warehouse • full of
> Cellulose Acetate, because there was still a lot of CA Lego in sets as • late as the
> late 60's. There are a lot of cases where Samsonite mixed bricks (usually • red or
> yellow CA, and blue or white ABS). As to the yellowing of bricks, white • obviously
> has the most yellowing, but blue and gray bricks also exhibit a lot of • yellowing.
> But most of the yellowing occurs with ABS bricks, not the earlier CA ones.
>
> Hope that helps explain it.
> Gary Istok
>
>
> Guido Heunen wrote:
>
> > Hi
> >
> > Recently I looked into boxes containing some older lego bricks • (1970-1985), and
> > I was very unhappy when I tried to build something. What happend is that • these
> > bricks don't fit anymore easily. I had to force them to be connected. To
> > deconnect them I had to put (of course) a lot of force on them.
> >
> > An other problem is that all the white bricks (for sure the older ones) • change
> > colour. Although I keep them in a dark container. For this reason I • don't want
> > to construct my "white" models
> > (such as the hospital (town) and space shuttle (technic))
> > because the sunlight (and maybe normal light) makes this problem even • worse.
> >
> > Did someone have the same experience and what can I do.
> >
> > Guido
>
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| |
|
Sonnich, I agree, there isn't anything that can be done about these skewed
bricks. One thing I was thinking about using them for was for the roof of a
medieval house or castle, where imperfect roofs are to be expected (irregular
slate or stone roof). Maybe some of the less skewed bricks can be used for that
purpose.
But then there are those that cannot even attach to other bricks. I have a
(very rare) old fliptop garage door in white (1955-61) that is very warped (from
a 1957 set), and is totally useless. Too bad, because the old doors are common
in red, but very rare in white. I still have 3 others that are not warped
however, that I can use.
That is one of the problems with buying old LEGO sets from the 1955-65 era.
When people build the set, there is so much warping that the completed building
looks like an earthquake hit it. One example is the old Esso Service Station
(#310). The only reason I buy old classic LEGO sets is for the complete set
with box, never because I want to build it.
In the case of the Esso Service Station, I purchased nice (only slightly warped)
examples of the Esso sign and pumps, fliptop garage kits, and ESSO SERVICE
sign. I build the set with all other pieces (including windows and doors) in
ABS plastic. One Cellulose Acetate item that I can use freely are the white
waffle bottom plates (2x8, 4x8, 6x8 and 4x8 right curve and 4x8 left curve). I
believe that the waffle bottoms somehow prevent the pieces from warping, because
I don't think that ANY of mine (about 500 of these plates) are warped. This is
not true for those few CA small plates (with the tube bottoms) that I have. The
2x3 and 2x4 CA plates usually have some warping.
Gary Istok
Sonnich Jensen wrote:
> Correct. The problem is present especially with older roofbricks. I have
> plenty of them in BLUE, about half of thme is unusaeble cause they are
> "skewed". Thay also are lighter blue in colour.
>
> There is nothing to do about it AFAIK. I would like to fix mine, bit just
> not possible.
>
> Gary Istok <gistok@umich.edu> wrote in message
> news:3AB23436.B2914F16@umich.edu...
> > Hi Guido,
> >
> > The problem with 99.9% of all old bricks not fitting together well anymore • is due
> > to one simple answer. And that has absolutely nothing to do with storage • or heat
> > (unless you're talking about a fire or oven temperature). It is because • the are
> > made of Cellulose Acetate. That material was in use from 1955-63 in • Europe, and
> > from 1961 (the first North American LEGO) thru 1968. Cellulose Acetate • can most
> > easily be spotted in red and yellow bricks. The red bricks are somewhat • lighter
> > and more orange in color, the yellow bricks have a lighter more "lemon • yellow"
> > color than later bricks. Blue CA looks slightly different than blue ABS, • but white
> > and black bricks are very difficult to tell appart (CA vs. ABS). And in • gray, no
> > CA bricks were ever produced (they came out later), only some CA plates.
> >
> > ABS plastic started being produced in 1963, but for some reason, the • Samsonite
> > folks (maker of Lego in USA/Canada at the time) must have had a warehouse • full of
> > Cellulose Acetate, because there was still a lot of CA Lego in sets as • late as the
> > late 60's. There are a lot of cases where Samsonite mixed bricks (usually • red or
> > yellow CA, and blue or white ABS). As to the yellowing of bricks, white • obviously
> > has the most yellowing, but blue and gray bricks also exhibit a lot of • yellowing.
> > But most of the yellowing occurs with ABS bricks, not the earlier CA ones.
> >
> > Hope that helps explain it.
> > Gary Istok
> >
> >
> > Guido Heunen wrote:
> >
> > > Hi
> > >
> > > Recently I looked into boxes containing some older lego bricks • (1970-1985), and
> > > I was very unhappy when I tried to build something. What happend is that • these
> > > bricks don't fit anymore easily. I had to force them to be connected. To
> > > deconnect them I had to put (of course) a lot of force on them.
> > >
> > > An other problem is that all the white bricks (for sure the older ones) • change
> > > colour. Although I keep them in a dark container. For this reason I • don't want
> > > to construct my "white" models
> > > (such as the hospital (town) and space shuttle (technic))
> > > because the sunlight (and maybe normal light) makes this problem even • worse.
> > >
> > > Did someone have the same experience and what can I do.
> > >
> > > Guido
> >
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| |
|
This isn't a problem with the bricks per se... It's how they were made
in that era. Bricks from the late 70's early 80's had a much tighter
fit. I'd forgotten this until about 4 or 5 months ago when I got a
brand new still in box set from about 1982 and I was putting the bricks
together and remembered the squeak my bricks used to make when I was
younger. It was a very sweet sound to my ears, though sure wreaked
havoc on the hands getting the pieces apart. Then I remembered why a
lot of my bricks from that era have teeth marks in them. My mom got
tired of breaking nails to get pieces apart and made me resort to
whatever I could to do it myself :(
Tamyra
Guido Heunen wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> Recently I looked into boxes containing some older lego bricks (1970-1985), and
> I was very unhappy when I tried to build something. What happend is that these
> bricks don't fit anymore easily. I had to force them to be connected. To
> deconnect them I had to put (of course) a lot of force on them.
>
> An other problem is that all the white bricks (for sure the older ones) change
> colour. Although I keep them in a dark container. For this reason I don't want
> to construct my "white" models
> (such as the hospital (town) and space shuttle (technic))
> because the sunlight (and maybe normal light) makes this problem even worse.
>
> Did someone have the same experience and what can I do.
>
> Guido
| | | | | | |
