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This is my first post here. I would like to announce a standard I’ve been
working on.
All Kinds of Structures (A.K.o.S.)
The purpose of this standard is to define a modular block-based building method
for building towns. Modules can be squares or rectangles, their dimensions are
multiples of 16, for example 16×16, 16×32, 32×32, etc. These modules should be
used to build larger modules with dimensions that are multiplies of 32 to ensure
compatibility with 32×32 baseplates. Adjacent buildings will share walls, so
the standard is best used to quickly build inner city streets. (Though it
allows the modular construction of larger buildings as well). Other than the
module-size restrictions, this standard is not very strict. The following
images should only be taken as demonstrational examples, you can build your
modules any way you want just make sure they can connect with similar modules.
One module does not necessarily equal one building, for example a 16×32 module
may hold a 12 and a 30 stud long building. Similarly, a 16×64 building may be
using two 16×32 modules. 16×16 modules are best used as corner hoses. Four
corner house modules can be used in a 32×32 block or two of them can close the
ends of a 16×32 module.
The lowest part of a module may be a baseplate. It is useful if the structure
can stand without the baseplate so the baseplate can be removed if need be, for
example the structure is standing on pillars because there is a subway station
under it.
Part of the standard is a modular frame, which makes building more effective.
The frame is built using ordinary pieces, it can be quickly disassembled for
storage or transportation, and most importantly it reduces the BOM for your
buildings. As a side-effect, your building will be easier to work on or be
modified.
Because modules are placed next to each other, most of the firewalls do not have
to be built. The frame reduces the buider’s job to build only the facade walls
and the roof. If part of a firewall is visible, the that part of frame can
easily be covered so the building will appear to be completely built.
Using the frame allows you to build the facade independently from the rest of
the building. The facade can easily be removed from the building, when - for
example - you want to modify or repair it, or when you want to store or move
your building.
The frame is covered by the facade, so its color does not have to match the rest
of the building.
The frame even makes the modules modular, so you can always change the layout of
your modules. Of course one would need several modules to be able to vary them.
If more people create such modules, whole city blocks can be assembled for shows
in very little time. If your display is against a wall, it is sufficient to
only build the front, the back may be left unbuilt. (Much like movie backdrops
are built.) If your next dislay is on a table, closed block can be build from
the modules, so all four sides would look neat.
The facade is 2 studs deep, this allows for more detail. (For example, recessed
windows.) Of course, parts of the building can stick out from the plane of the
facade, as long as they fit in the overall layout. (Flags, the edge of the
roof, etc.)
Using the frame allows you to build in multiple themes, as long as you don’t
need buildings in both themes at the same time. You can have one frame onto
which you snap a Castle facade for one show or a Town facade for another show.
If you don’t already have certain bricks a specific color, you can substitute
them with another one. When you get the right bricks, you don’t have to tar
down the whole 3D building, just snap off the facade, fix it, and snap it back
on.
The modular frame can be utilized by clubs also. If your club stocks up on the
standard frames, the members would only have to build the facades/roofs and
bring them to the meeting or show.
The modular frame uses the following primitives:
- 2-pin connector block
- narrow panel (height can be different)
- wide panel (height can be different)
The narrow panel is used on the 16 stud sides, so a 16×16 corner building
requires two of them.
The wide panel is used for 32 stud sides, so a 16×32 building requires two
narrow panels and one wide panel.
Adjacent modules are connected using a 4-pin connector block.
Facades can be connect to the side panels using Technic pins. The facade’s
height is up to the builder, but obviously it should be as tall as the panels
(or taller).
The facade for a 32 stud side is 2 studs deep and 32 studs wide.
A 16 stud corner building has two facades, these are also 2 stud deep, but the
width of both can not be 16 since they would overlap. A 14 and a 16 wide facade
is a simple solution, other methods can also be used. (For instance, a curved
wall is perfectily OK.)
These blank white walls are only used for demonstration, a “real” building would
look a bit different: 
The top of the facade can be covered with tiles, so it would be easy to add or
remove the roof.
Here is the CAD documentátion:
http://www.maj.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=91680
And here is a small MOC that was build to demonstrate the A.K.o.S. standard:
Images: http://www.maj.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=91492
Instructions: http://www.maj.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=91686
MOC-specific facade and roof elements:
They can be used on a corner frame:
Or on a regular frame:
Please let me know if you built an A.K.o.S. based MOC!
Akos Kostyan
LEGO Ambassador
akos@malug.hu
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In lugnet.announce.moc, Akos Kostyan wrote:
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This is my first post here. I would like to announce a standard I’ve been
working on.
All Kinds of Structures (A.K.o.S.)
The purpose of this standard is to define a modular block-based building
method for building towns.
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OK, forgive me for being dense but how does the lovely framework for building
interiors achieve a “modular block-based building method for building towns”? A
modular system (like moonbase or CCC) defines how external connections are made
and provides size limitations.
It would seem to me a modular town standard would specify a baseplate size, a
sidewalk/roadway configuration and a point of connection to adjacent sections.
How the interior of a house is constructed is rather beside the point.
Or perhaps you are simply trying to show how large buildings can be created
without actually building the whole structure.
G. Edward (Ted) Godwin
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In lugnet.build, George Edward Godwin wrote:
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In lugnet.announce.moc, Akos Kostyan wrote:
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This is my first post here. I would like to announce a standard I’ve been
working on.
All Kinds of Structures (A.K.o.S.)
The purpose of this standard is to define a modular block-based building
method for building towns.
|
OK, forgive me for being dense but how does the lovely framework for building
interiors achieve a “modular block-based building method for building towns”?
A modular system (like moonbase or CCC) defines how external connections are
made and provides size limitations.
It would seem to me a modular town standard would specify a baseplate size, a
sidewalk/roadway configuration and a point of connection to adjacent
sections.
How the interior of a house is constructed is rather beside the point.
Or perhaps you are simply trying to show how large buildings can be created
without actually building the whole structure.
G. Edward (Ted) Godwin
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The baseplate limitations are there: 16×16, 16×32 etc. The sidewalk/roadway is
not specified, because the blocks should fit between 32×32 baseplates. The idea
is that the modules do not overlap with the baseplates of the layout, you can
build your roads/sidewalks independently. The connection points are in the
frame, but they are only there to hold modules together. You enter the
buildings from the street, they do not have “functional connections” like the
corridors in moonbase. The only way these modules connect is that they are
placed adjacently and there is no gap or alleyway between them.
(I just used the more of same module to show how they connect, I would have used
different ones if I had already made some more.)
You are absolutely right about your observations, I really wanted to combine two
goals, and the second goal (i.e. to build with a pre-building structure) was as
important to me as to build connecting buildings.
Of course, I’m not trying to say that these would make “traditional” buildings
obsolete. Only use it where it makes sense. For example, one could build the
residental buildings with these modules for a castle layout, but build the
“landmark” buildings such as a palaces, churches, mills etc. as real “3D”
buildings. So it does not have to be used exclusively, unlike in moonbase,
where everything must be on a compatible module.
Akos
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I really like this, I can see it being used a lot to create backings/facards
(sp) for train shows etc. It is perfect for filling in “missing details” after a
layout is finished, and as it is easy modify as not to repeditive.
I can see a lot of train clubs having a box of this style they take to shows in
a compact box, for just incase
Congrats on a great Idea
Aaron
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<SNIP>
Hi Akos,
I really like this concept (although I have my suspicions that you just wanted
to make an acronym out of your name ;-) ). I may borrow you idea for the
structure for use in my home layout.
Great idea!
Tim
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Very interesting! I can see how this would help with emergency cover for show
layouts... Personally I would still be concentrating on ‘whole’ MOCs but if you
needed a quick background this would be great.
Thanks and God Bless,
Nathan
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I’ve build two more A.K.o.S. buildings this weekend just to see if this concept
would actually work in reality. I think they don’t look that bad.
http://news.lugnet.com/announce/moc/?n=2829
Akos Kostyan
LEGO Ambassador
akos@malug.hu
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Hi,
I tried to build one of these and had some difficulties. Maybe you can clarify
them for me.
It seems that the idea is not to leave 2 studs on every side, but only on the
sides that are going to have facades.
If I understand the AKOS system, the supports are recessed from the facade in a
way that a 16x32 module has 1 row left over in the back. This means that the
facades are able to have 1x4 beams in back with exactly 1 hole in line with a
support.
Why is your long support 26 studs long?
Could you summarize the setbacks (and lengths) of each combination of supports
in 16x16 and 16x32 with or without a firewall/facade on the short end?
Other thought-questions:
Wouldn’t it be more sensible to have a system where the interior structure had
the same center across different configurations and 2 studs open on all sides?
Or would that make it too awkward to attach facades?
Also, where did you get lots of 1x10 beams? PaB? I made a lot of substitutes
with 1x2 brick with Technic peg, plus 1x4 beams, sandwiched between 1x plates.
You might want to document substitutes and describe which holes are essential.
Finally
I’m intrigued by this standard (more than what has gone before) as a help to
integrate separate, small MOCs. “Works together with other sets” being part of
the Lego way. Thanks for sharing this concept!
-Erik
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In lugnet.build, Erik Olson wrote:
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Hi,
I tried to build one of these and had some difficulties. Maybe you can
clarify them for me.
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I’ll try my best! :-) BTW, You must show me what you built ;-)
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It seems that the idea is not to leave 2 studs on every side, but only on the
sides that are going to have facades.
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Correct. Originally, I was going to leave a 2 stud setback on all four sides,
but I decided that a firewall did not need to be 2 studs thick. One goal of
this method is to minimize firewalls as much as possible. For example, if you
have a fully closed 64x64 block, the only places you really need firewalls are
where buildings are taller than the adjacent ones. For standalone buildings,
you don’t need to make them A.K.o.S. compatible, unless you like the concept of
removable walls for other reasons.
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If I understand the AKOS system, the supports are recessed from the facade in
a way that a 16x32 module has 1 row left over in the back. This means that
the facades are able to have 1x4 beams in back with exactly 1 hole in line
with a support.
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Yes, the backpanel also leaves a 1 stud clearance, just like the side panels.
The way a facade connects to the panel is left to the builder’s discretion. I
built two other buildings today, and they connect in a slightly different way.
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Why is your long support 26 studs long?
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It does not really have to be 26. It could be as long (wide) as 30 studs. I
happened to have Technic beams in 1x10 and 1x16 sizes. I also noticed that the
panel connector I previously invented for the 16x16 corner arrangements worked
as well for this arrangement.
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Could you summarize the setbacks (and lengths) of each combination of
supports in 16x16 and 16x32 with or without a firewall/facade on the short
end?
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In the ones I built, the short panels were 10 stud long, the long panels were 26
long. The front side always had a 2 stud setback, the sides and the back had a
1 stud clearance.
For a 16x16 baseplate, the “deadzone” is 13x13 big. From left to right: 1 stud
for firewall, 13 studs of “nothing”, 2 studs of facade. From back to front: 1
stud for firewall, 13 studs of “nothing”, 2 studs of facade. (Of course, the
panels sit inside the 13 studs of “nothing”.)
For a 16x32 baseplate, the “deadzone” is 13x30 big. From left to right: 1 stud
for firewall, 30 studs of “nothing”, 1 stud for firewall. From back to front: 1
stud for firewall, 13 studs of “nothing”, 2 studs of facade.
(Maybe I haven’t mentioned that tiles are optional, one of the two new buildings
do not have tiles, the facade actually sits on the baseplate but it still comes
off easily if I take it apart.)
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Other thought-questions:
Wouldn’t it be more sensible to have a system where the interior structure
had the same center across different configurations and 2 studs open on all
sides? Or would that make it too awkward to attach facades?
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It is quite possible. If you arrange the panels to support 2-thick-firewalls
(2TFW) on the non-facade sides, the current panel-connectors will not work,
though. Since they are on the inside, it does not really “violate” anything,
and you can make similar ones.
By default, a 2TFW module would not connect to a 1TFW module with the current
module-connector, but this could be fixed easily. I would just snap another
Technic beam 1x10 on the 2TFW panel’s outer side, as if it was a 2x10 Technic
beam.
So we already have a 2TFW extenision to the standard! :-)
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Also, where did you get lots of 1x10 beams? PaB? I made a lot of substitutes
with 1x2 brick with Technic peg, plus 1x4 beams, sandwiched between 1x
plates. You might want to document substitutes and describe which holes are
essential.
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Hungary does not have PaB. Last summer, some toy stores had this large
cardboard box on a wooden pallet. Some stores were selling the brick randomly
packed in bags (4521) for about 5 USD a bag. (And you always got 25 left widget
and not a single right widget.) There was one store that would let you pick the
pieces into the bag. It was more expensive (7 USD) but it was a better deal,
IMHO. For example, I bought about 150 green Technic Beam 1x16-s in two such
bags, by putting 10 or so pieces together and sliding about 7 of these into the
bag.
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Finally
I’m intrigued by this standard (more than what has gone before) as a help to
integrate separate, small MOCs. “Works together with other sets” being part
of the Lego way. Thanks for sharing this concept!
-Erik
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Funny you should say that. Now that I have build three houses, I had the same
feeling. Once the elements are ready, you can build the house as if you only
had to put a dozen or so pieces together. Then, to build a street, you just
connect a few “pieces”. Of course, I’m not saying that I invented the concept
of modularity, or anything like that. Anyways, the more houses I build like
this, the more I like the idea. Previously, it took me long hours to build a
house I did not like at the end, now it still takes a few hours but I spend more
time building a virtually 2D facade without having to build and tear down
firewalls. The 3D roof is still a challenge, but it is easier to build because
it is completely detached from the building, I can build it in my hands.
http://www.maj.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=92045
Akos
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