Subject:
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Re: All Kinds of Structures (A.K.o.S.)
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.build
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Date:
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Sun, 19 Jun 2005 19:54:13 GMT
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Viewed:
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2590 times
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In lugnet.build, Erik Olson wrote:
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Hi,
I tried to build one of these and had some difficulties. Maybe you can
clarify them for me.
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I’ll try my best! :-) BTW, You must show me what you built ;-)
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It seems that the idea is not to leave 2 studs on every side, but only on the
sides that are going to have facades.
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Correct. Originally, I was going to leave a 2 stud setback on all four sides,
but I decided that a firewall did not need to be 2 studs thick. One goal of
this method is to minimize firewalls as much as possible. For example, if you
have a fully closed 64x64 block, the only places you really need firewalls are
where buildings are taller than the adjacent ones. For standalone buildings,
you don’t need to make them A.K.o.S. compatible, unless you like the concept of
removable walls for other reasons.
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If I understand the AKOS system, the supports are recessed from the facade in
a way that a 16x32 module has 1 row left over in the back. This means that
the facades are able to have 1x4 beams in back with exactly 1 hole in line
with a support.
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Yes, the backpanel also leaves a 1 stud clearance, just like the side panels.
The way a facade connects to the panel is left to the builder’s discretion. I
built two other buildings today, and they connect in a slightly different way.
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Why is your long support 26 studs long?
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It does not really have to be 26. It could be as long (wide) as 30 studs. I
happened to have Technic beams in 1x10 and 1x16 sizes. I also noticed that the
panel connector I previously invented for the 16x16 corner arrangements worked
as well for this arrangement.
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Could you summarize the setbacks (and lengths) of each combination of
supports in 16x16 and 16x32 with or without a firewall/facade on the short
end?
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In the ones I built, the short panels were 10 stud long, the long panels were 26
long. The front side always had a 2 stud setback, the sides and the back had a
1 stud clearance.
For a 16x16 baseplate, the “deadzone” is 13x13 big. From left to right: 1 stud
for firewall, 13 studs of “nothing”, 2 studs of facade. From back to front: 1
stud for firewall, 13 studs of “nothing”, 2 studs of facade. (Of course, the
panels sit inside the 13 studs of “nothing”.)
For a 16x32 baseplate, the “deadzone” is 13x30 big. From left to right: 1 stud
for firewall, 30 studs of “nothing”, 1 stud for firewall. From back to front: 1
stud for firewall, 13 studs of “nothing”, 2 studs of facade.
(Maybe I haven’t mentioned that tiles are optional, one of the two new buildings
do not have tiles, the facade actually sits on the baseplate but it still comes
off easily if I take it apart.)
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Other thought-questions:
Wouldn’t it be more sensible to have a system where the interior structure
had the same center across different configurations and 2 studs open on all
sides? Or would that make it too awkward to attach facades?
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It is quite possible. If you arrange the panels to support 2-thick-firewalls
(2TFW) on the non-facade sides, the current panel-connectors will not work,
though. Since they are on the inside, it does not really “violate” anything,
and you can make similar ones.
By default, a 2TFW module would not connect to a 1TFW module with the current
module-connector, but this could be fixed easily. I would just snap another
Technic beam 1x10 on the 2TFW panel’s outer side, as if it was a 2x10 Technic
beam.
So we already have a 2TFW extenision to the standard! :-)
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Also, where did you get lots of 1x10 beams? PaB? I made a lot of substitutes
with 1x2 brick with Technic peg, plus 1x4 beams, sandwiched between 1x
plates. You might want to document substitutes and describe which holes are
essential.
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Hungary does not have PaB. Last summer, some toy stores had this large
cardboard box on a wooden pallet. Some stores were selling the brick randomly
packed in bags (4521) for about 5 USD a bag. (And you always got 25 left widget
and not a single right widget.) There was one store that would let you pick the
pieces into the bag. It was more expensive (7 USD) but it was a better deal,
IMHO. For example, I bought about 150 green Technic Beam 1x16-s in two such
bags, by putting 10 or so pieces together and sliding about 7 of these into the
bag.
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Finally
I’m intrigued by this standard (more than what has gone before) as a help to
integrate separate, small MOCs. “Works together with other sets” being part
of the Lego way. Thanks for sharing this concept!
-Erik
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Funny you should say that. Now that I have build three houses, I had the same
feeling. Once the elements are ready, you can build the house as if you only
had to put a dozen or so pieces together. Then, to build a street, you just
connect a few “pieces”. Of course, I’m not saying that I invented the concept
of modularity, or anything like that. Anyways, the more houses I build like
this, the more I like the idea. Previously, it took me long hours to build a
house I did not like at the end, now it still takes a few hours but I spend more
time building a virtually 2D facade without having to build and tear down
firewalls. The 3D roof is still a challenge, but it is easier to build because
it is completely detached from the building, I can build it in my hands.
http://www.maj.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=92045
Akos
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Message is in Reply To:
 | | Re: All Kinds of Structures (A.K.o.S.)
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| Hi, I tried to build one of these and had some difficulties. Maybe you can clarify them for me. It seems that the idea is not to leave 2 studs on every side, but only on the sides that are going to have facades. If I understand the AKOS system, the (...) (19 years ago, 19-Jun-05, to lugnet.build, FTX)
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