Subject:
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Re: a trick to make NEW trainwheels work - PICTURE SERIE
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.trains, lugnet.lego.direct
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Date:
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Fri, 25 Oct 2002 08:49:33 GMT
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Viewed:
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2016 times
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In lugnet.trains, Steve Barile writes:
> Taking the low road...
> I was thinking how to shave off some plastic from the wheel flange. And it's
> not that big of a deal the roundness of the flange isn't as critical as the
> the roundness of the wheel tread.
>
> But then it hit me, using a small jewelers file remove some materal from the
> wheel block where the wheels are hitting. see photo at:
> http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/SEBarile/Misc/wheelsset-mod.jpg
Hi Steve,
what you have done here seems to be exactely what the German guy did (the
links I gave at the first message of this thread).
Only his description where to cut has been so fuzzy, that even I as a German
did not fully understand him....
But your excellent picture tells at least anybody with some experience in
technical drawings very clear what to do. Thanks for sharing this! (It
perfectly fits to what I have measured out for the wheel sets here:
http://news.lugnet.com/trains/?n=18151
I am really convinced, this is what we have to do to fix all main problems.
The suggestion of Klaas might be really helpful too, but in my eyes he is
avoiding the problem of friction between wheel and frame by a bypassing of the
basical problem.
The wheel sets are meant to have a needle bearing (tip in a 'pan' - those
cause lowest friction and are therefore widely used in model railroad and in
clockworks). If you use Klaas way to improve the wheel sets, they are much
superior against the standard wheels with friction between wheel and frame,
but they are still a little bit less optimized than needle bearings. (1)
Kind regards,
Ben
(1) sidenote: needle bearings do only work proper for low loads, so in the end
for the heavy Santa Fe engine and coaches the solution of Klaas may have a
theoretically higher frictional resistance than the needle bearings solution
with partly cut frames. Practically it may be the solution with the best
overall operational behaviour. I think test runs will tell us in a short while
what is to be done best. Adding pins or cutting small parts of the frame away
(both not to be seen from the outside of the model).
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