Subject:
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Re: a trick to make NEW trainwheels work - PICTURE SERIE
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.trains, lugnet.lego.direct
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Date:
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Thu, 24 Oct 2002 18:50:34 GMT
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Viewed:
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1902 times
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In lugnet.trains, Klaas H. Meijaard writes:
> Hi all,
>
> Everything is said about this bad wheel molds, I hope (and EXPECT) Lego
> will make new molds in short time!!
>
> More interesting: HOW DO WE GET OUR WHEELS TO WORK PROPERLY??? ....
> without to much work. :-)
>
> Please check out the pics I uploaded, AND TRY THE TRICK YOURSELF.
...
I tried.
For step 2, I used one #3673 Technic Pin and two cut-up part #3749 (Technic,
Axle Pin). The middle rib isn't quite as wide, and it made it easier not to
push it in too far (and I have more of them.)
I found that after step 3, it was best if I positioned the wheelset cover
back on the bogie assembly, so that the middle pin was pushed into position;
this also helped me not press the outside pins in too far.
It's tricky to get the round peg in the square hole (step 4), so I used
#4095 (Umbrella Stand) to position it instead of my big fat fingers. That
helped a lot, and the bar prevented me from pushing the peg too far.
After the modification, the wheels don't rub against the side, but usually
they don't rotate freely either. I may be doing something wrong, but I don't
know what.
I put together four or so cars and then gave it a test drive. Or tried to.
You ever have the motor and/or regulator shut down when the load is too
great? After fooling with it for a while, I gave up, disgusted. When I left
it, the engine with an unmodified motor wouldn't run by itself.
Also, I haven't had much success with the bicycle tire trick either. The
motors I've converted lurch even when the Santa Fe engine has no cars
attached. It's as if the bicycle tires are too thick a replacement.
Next I'll try filing down the wheel cover.
Cary
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