 | | Re: Track Designer (was: 'Dog Bone' - definition)
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(...) This program is invaluable. Saves a lot of wear and tear on the knees when setting up fun layouts for the kids, saves a lot of redface at shows when things don't line up right. Highly recommended. (2) Note that SRC's pics he posted asking (...) (24 years ago, 13-Mar-01, to lugnet.trains)
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| | Re: Pics of my "Auto Hopper" unloading hopper car
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(...) slider in the bottom. The slider protrudes slightly on either side, so you push it up against a pair of posts either side of the track to force it open. Unfortunately, I had to keep the hatch small enough to pour through 9V track, and it only (...) (24 years ago, 13-Mar-01, to lugnet.trains)
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| | Re: A question about Insulation between tracks
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(...) I have used electrical insulation tape and it worked fine. You do have to trim it carefully to avoid snags. I had considered cutting off the metal coating to create a permanently non-conducting element but since the tape worked I decided (...) (24 years ago, 13-Mar-01, to lugnet.trains)
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| | Re: A question about Insulation between tracks
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(...) You can't. But, as long as it is not the exact same distance between the 2 rails and the power supply, the motor will still see a difference, and likely move. If it doesn't, get out your handy HOG and push it off the joint, and watch it fly (...) (24 years ago, 13-Mar-01, to lugnet.trains)
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| | Re: The Royal Train Website
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(...) Brian, Can you shed any light (no pun intended) on the process you used to generate your INCREDIBLY photo-realistic images? I've read most of the posts and your website, and it appears to comprise PhotoShop, stickers, detailed design, (...) (24 years ago, 13-Mar-01, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.build, lugnet.publish.photography)
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