Subject:
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Re: Blacktron Spyderpod
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.space
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Date:
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Fri, 13 Dec 2002 02:48:43 GMT
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Viewed:
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633 times
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In lugnet.space, Tobbe Arnesson writes:
> I can't decide weather the MOC or the photos are the most amazing...
> *please* could you write up a tutorial or at least a brief description on
> how you arrange the lightning etc.?
Hrm, well, it's more an art than a science, I think -- at least for me --
although I definitely always find the following helpful:
* Shoot multiple exposures under different lighting conditions; experiment
and see what works. When it's coming out like you want it, do more of that;
when it's not, do something else.
* Don't be afraid to use a flash, if it's indirect. I find the lighting is a
lot more pure (closer to sunlight) with external stroboscopic flashes than
with any other kind of artificial lighting. Come to think of it, in fact,
none of the Millennium Falcon images were even processed in Photoshop -- for
these I just took what the camera saved and resized them down to 800x600 with
djpeg, pnmscale, and cjpeg. But experiment... often a quick "auto levels" in
Photoshop can do wonders.
* Invest in a 1GB IBM Microdrive if your camera supports Type-II CompactFlash
cards. You'll (almost) never have to worry about filling up your card ever
again. Then you can take 100 pictures of something and keep the 10 you like.
(I find that I delete by far most of the photos I take.) That said, it
doesn't hurt to archive your raw images to CDR before you apply Occam's
Razor, in case you should change your mind or need to do any cross-image
clone tooling.
* Shoot with the smallest aperture setting that you can manually set. This
will increase your depth of field and minimize blurring in the foreground and
background. The axe swings both ways, though, and smaller lens apertures
require you to use either brighter lighting or longer exposures. If you
don't want to (or can't) use an external bounced flash, definitely use a
tripod and a remote shutter trigger because you'll probably need a 1- or
2-second exposure under regular room lighting conditions, and even a 1/30
second exposure can show blur under close inspection if you're hand-holding
the camera.
* Don't get too close to the subject -- even if your camera has good macro
capabilities. Instead get *as far away from* the subject as possible, and
use your camera's zoom lens to fill the frame. Zoom all the way in, and
then slowly back away from the subject until you have the composition you
want. Taking the photo from far away with a zoom has at least two advantages
over taking the photo from close-up: (1) it minimizes foreshortening
distortion; (2) it increases the depth of field. Of course you'll need to
experiment with lighting and see what works best for you; it can be harder to
light a subject two feet away than one that is just and inch or two away, but
this isn't a hard rule.
* When using a flash, set the exposure to 1/250 second -- don't use the
camera's default of 1/60 of a second -- unless you're using a tripod or have
very steady hands or you only need the images for web pages. This is less
important if you're close to the subject, because any micro-shaking won't be
as noticable as if you're zooming from a distance.
--Todd
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Message has 1 Reply:
 | | Re: Blacktron Spyderpod
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| (...) You can accomplish a lot without a fancy camera in the way of flash by using an infrared remote flash trigger. I've got a pricey one I bought for cave photography but I think there are cheaper ones available. You can also buy a used flash from (...) (22 years ago, 14-Dec-02, to lugnet.space)
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Message is in Reply To:
| | Re: Blacktron Spyderpod
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| (...) I can't decide weather the MOC or the photos are the most amazing... *please* could you write up a tutorial or at least a brief description on how you arrange the lightning etc.? Best regards, /Tobbe (URL) SPAM when e-mailing) (22 years ago, 10-Dec-02, to lugnet.space)
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