| |
To get some more discussion going, I'd like to hear some feedback on
"Large Scale Castle Building," a workshop I'd like to present. I would relate
some of what I've learned while working on my own castle, including tips on
building hills and raised surfaces, common castle features, layout and
floorplans, etc. Is there interest in this? Are there any items people would
like to see specifically?
Jeff
Brickfest 2002
Castle Room Coordinator
|
|
| |
In lugnet.castle, Jeff Stembel writes:
|>To get some more discussion going, I'd like to hear some feedback on
|>"Large Scale Castle Building," a workshop I'd like to present. I would relate
|>some of what I've learned while working on my own castle, including tips on
|>building hills and raised surfaces, common castle features, layout and
|>floorplans, etc. Is there interest in this? Are there any items people would
|>like to see specifically?
|
|Sounds like a great workshop, I'm looking forward to it! I'd personally like
|to hear your (and other people/s) input into how best to make interiors
|accessable. It must have taken a lot of planning for you to figure out just
|how to make your Norman Keep open up the way it does. If you hav emuch
|experience building on other colours than grey, it would be cool to have
|some examples of what colour schemes may work best.
|
|Another thing that could be incorporated into it could be a kind of
|"suggestions for how to make" various castle related things, from spiral
|staircases to wooden hoardings. Perhaps people could bring their own
|solutions with them and we could all have a kind of "show and tell" session.
|There must be lots of ways to make arrow slits for example, but most of us
|will probably have only come up with one or two ways. If lots of us got
|together, we might be able to compile a dozen or so ways, that everyone
|could see.
|
|cheers
|
|Magnus
|
|
| |
In lugnet.castle, Magnus Lauglo writes:
> Another thing that could be incorporated into it could be a kind of
> "suggestions for how to make" various castle related things, from spiral
> staircases to wooden hoardings. Perhaps people could bring their own
> solutions with them and we could all have a kind of "show and tell" session.
> There must be lots of ways to make arrow slits for example, but most of us
> will probably have only come up with one or two ways. If lots of us got
> together, we might be able to compile a dozen or so ways, that everyone
> could see.
Oh, yes, that sounds like it could be a lot of fun! Anyone else interested in
participating?
Jeff
Brickfest 2002
Castle Room Coordinator
|
|
| |
In lugnet.castle, Jeff Stembel writes:
> In lugnet.castle, Magnus Lauglo writes:
> > Another thing that could be incorporated into it could be a kind of
> > "suggestions for how to make" various castle related things, from spiral
> > staircases to wooden hoardings. Perhaps people could bring their own
> > solutions with them and we could all have a kind of "show and tell" session.
> > There must be lots of ways to make arrow slits for example, but most of us
> > will probably have only come up with one or two ways. If lots of us got
> > together, we might be able to compile a dozen or so ways, that everyone
> > could see.
>
> Oh, yes, that sounds like it could be a lot of fun! Anyone else interested in
> participating?
>
> Jeff
> Brickfest 2002
> Castle Room Coordinator
Well, I'm gonna do my best to attend brickfest, and I'll do my best to create a
16x16 town bit. I'm also going to try to bring a dragon or two, along with my
griffon and if I get it done, another project I'm working on at the moment.
I'd love to do a workshop, as Jeff has suggested to me I could do a creature,
story, or photoediting workshop, or maybe even so bold as to do all three. Is
there anyone who'd be interested in this? Granted, I'm not the world's
authority on building dragons/creatures, or for telling stories, or for editing
pictures (see Kevin Hall, for he is the grand guru of all that is photoshop).
I think we all in .castle who plan to come to brickfest should get involved in
the whole display castle/town wall thing. And a joust would rock too! And
even those who cannot attend should get involved too, though just not as much
I'm sure ;)
--Anthony
http://www.ozbricks.com/ikros
|
|
| |
"Anthony Sava" <savatheaggie@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:GwIrqq.D15@lugnet.com...
> I think we all in .castle who plan to come to brickfest should get • involved in
> the whole display castle/town wall thing. And a joust would rock too! • And
> even those who cannot attend should get involved too, though just not as • much
> I'm sure ;)
And here is my first attempt at wall sections:
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=17529
It is actually NOT blue! ;)
It's 4 studs thick with a 6 stud base and walkway. It is 9.3 bricks to the
walkway, and 11.6 total. The connectors allow for the sections to be offset
+/- one stud forward or back as well as +/- one brick up or down. This was
done so that the wall would not be perfectly straight, and in case we have
some landscaping going on.
Input on improvements is always greatly appreciated. Would like to get the
wall sections approved before I work on towers or a gate house.
Troy
|
|
| |
On Wed, 22 May 2002, Troy's Surplus Lego wrote:
> And here is my first attempt at wall sections:
> http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=17529
>
> It is actually NOT blue! ;)
>
> It's 4 studs thick with a 6 stud base and walkway. It is 9.3 bricks to the
> walkway, and 11.6 total. The connectors allow for the sections to be offset
> +/- one stud forward or back as well as +/- one brick up or down. This was
> done so that the wall would not be perfectly straight, and in case we have
> some landscaping going on.
Black doesn't show up very well. . .could you do a rainbow warrior version
that more clearly shows the height, location of connectors, and
battlement?
And am I correct in seeing that you're aiming for a 2-high battlement?
That leaves minifigs putting a lot of faith in their chest armour. . .
Thanks,
--
TWS Garrison
http://www.math.purdue.edu/~tgarriso/
Remove capital letters in address for direct reply.
|
|
| |
> Black doesn't show up very well. . .could you do a rainbow warrior version
> that more clearly shows the height, location of connectors, and
> battlement?
I know. I took the pictures in a hurry as well and that didn't help much
either. I'll try to make one in a different color and get the pictures
posted.
> And am I correct in seeing that you're aiming for a 2-high battlement?
> That leaves minifigs putting a lot of faith in their chest armour. . .
How high should they be? I'm admittedly new at this, so suggestions are
welcome. Links to examples are even more useful. :)
Troy
|
|
| |
> Black doesn't show up very well. . .could you do a rainbow warrior version
> that more clearly shows the height, location of connectors, and
> battlement?
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=17529
I've added new pictures of a lovely stripped version of the wall section. I
also increased the heights of the battlement by one brick.
I think these pictures more clearly show the connections used. 4 technic
1x4 bricks are used, with friction pins. This arrangement allows for the
ability to offset the wall sections a little bit to conform to landscaping
and structures.
Suggestions for improvements are always welcome.
Troy
|
|
| |
On Thu, 23 May 2002, Troy's Surplus Lego wrote:
> > And am I correct in seeing that you're aiming for a 2-high battlement?
> > That leaves minifigs putting a lot of faith in their chest armour. . .
>
> How high should they be? I'm admittedly new at this, so suggestions are
> welcome. Links to examples are even more useful. :)
Ooh, holy war alert!
I would say that the parapet should shield a standing minifig. Thus, from
wall walk to the top the crenal should be four or five bricks, with
embrassures at about two bricks. Crenels should be three or four
studs wide[1]. Examples are this (I have no
idea whose):
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=141573
and of course Daniel Siskind's Bloodstone Castle:
http://www.brickmania.com/castle/C37.html
(really tall parapet there).
The other schools of thought call for shorter parapets (for example, as
one of the many compromises of "minifig scale"). Examples include 2
brick wall + 1 brick crenel (Richard Shamus):
http://www.geocities.com/TimesSquare/Castle/1334/
and 1 brick wall + 1 brick crenel (David Eaton):
http://www.suave.net/~dave/walledtown.html
(or any TLC castle).
--
TWS Garrison
http://www.math.purdue.edu/~tgarriso/
Remove capital letters in address for direct reply.
[1] Unless pierced by an arrow loop, which would be tricky in minifig
scale.
|
|
| |
In lugnet.castle, Troy Cefaratti writes:
> > Black doesn't show up very well. . .could you do a rainbow warrior version
> > that more clearly shows the height, location of connectors, and
> > battlement?
>
> http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=17529
>
> I've added new pictures of a lovely stripped version of the wall section. I
> also increased the heights of the battlement by one brick.
>
> I think these pictures more clearly show the connections used. 4 technic
> 1x4 bricks are used, with friction pins. This arrangement allows for the
> ability to offset the wall sections a little bit to conform to landscaping
> and structures.
>
> Suggestions for improvements are always welcome.
>
> Troy
Thanks for taking this task upon yourself, Troy. :) As for suggestions, I'm
partial to flat front surfaces on town walls, like those found at Conwy Castle.
If you want to get very detailed, you could put 1x2 technic bricks at even
intervals for hourding post-holes. I like the three brick tall crenelations as
well, but if possible, though, you might try stacked pairs of 1x3s (spaced two
apart, perhaps?) to get a more realistic look, or you could put some arrow
loops in them. But even you might not have enough 1x3s for that. :( Also,
I'm kind of partial to 7 or 8 brick tall walls, so the tower rooms don't have
soaring ceilings. ;) Also, you might want to be ready to make some custom
wall sections in case people build up landscaping in nearby buildings. :)
Jeff
Brickfest 2002
Castle Room Coordinator
|
|
| |
Thanks for the "nod." I think though that my walls are much too short, and a
new standard should be devised. I'm hoping that work in this area will occur
soon, and that this new standard will be propagated to other for maximum
participation.
Rich
--
Have Fun! C-Ya!
Legoman34
*****
Legoman34 (Richard W. Schamus)... (My views do not necessarily express the
views of my employer...)
BRICKFEST 2002 IS JUST AROUND THE CORNER... START MAKING PLANS TODAY.
Card carrying LUGNET MEMBER: #70
Visit http://www.geocities.com/legoman34.geo/
...(the wait is over...)
..."The only thing we have to fear, is fear itself." ...
*****
In lugnet.castle, Thomas Garrison writes:
> On Thu, 23 May 2002, Troy's Surplus Lego wrote:
>
> > > And am I correct in seeing that you're aiming for a 2-high battlement?
> > > That leaves minifigs putting a lot of faith in their chest armour. . .
> >
> > How high should they be? I'm admittedly new at this, so suggestions are
> > welcome. Links to examples are even more useful. :)
>
> Ooh, holy war alert!
>
> I would say that the parapet should shield a standing minifig. Thus, from
> wall walk to the top the crenal should be four or five bricks, with
> embrassures at about two bricks. Crenels should be three or four
> studs wide[1]. Examples are this (I have no
> idea whose):
> http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=141573
> and of course Daniel Siskind's Bloodstone Castle:
> http://www.brickmania.com/castle/C37.html
> (really tall parapet there).
>
> The other schools of thought call for shorter parapets (for example, as
> one of the many compromises of "minifig scale"). Examples include 2
> brick wall + 1 brick crenel (Richard Shamus):
> http://www.geocities.com/TimesSquare/Castle/1334/
> and 1 brick wall + 1 brick crenel (David Eaton):
> http://www.suave.net/~dave/walledtown.html
> (or any TLC castle).
>
> --
> TWS Garrison
> http://www.math.purdue.edu/~tgarriso/
> Remove capital letters in address for direct reply.
>
> [1] Unless pierced by an arrow loop, which would be tricky in minifig
> scale.
|
|
| |
I'm going to do some more work on the wall tonight. I'll probably make the
wall itself shorter while making the battlements taller so as to provide
more protection. I'll also try 4 stud crenials with 2 stud spacing to see
how it looks. (i'm trying not to use any 1x3 bricks in the wall)
Jeff pointed out that flat front walls are more historically accurate. I'm
of the opinion that the sloped/overhanging wall just looks cooler. Any
other opinions? It might make it harder for people trying to build stuff
right up against the wall, but I would think that those people would
probably build their own custom sections anyways.
Once we come up with a concensus on a "standard" straight wall section, i'll
start working on towers and corners and such. Ideas for those are welcome
as well ;)
FYI: I have the resources to bring A LOT of these wall sections with me.
That may free up other builders to use more of their resources in actuall
buildings! (which i'm not up to trying myself just yet!)
Troy
"Richard W. Schamus (legoman34)" <legoman34@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:GwKosI.57s@lugnet.com...
> Thanks for the "nod." I think though that my walls are much too short, and • a
> new standard should be devised. I'm hoping that work in this area will • occur
> soon, and that this new standard will be propagated to other for maximum
> participation.
>
> Rich
>
>
> --
> Have Fun! C-Ya!
>
> Legoman34
>
> *****
> Legoman34 (Richard W. Schamus)... (My views do not necessarily express the
> views of my employer...)
>
> BRICKFEST 2002 IS JUST AROUND THE CORNER... START MAKING PLANS TODAY.
>
> Card carrying LUGNET MEMBER: #70
> Visit http://www.geocities.com/legoman34.geo/
> ...(the wait is over...)
> ..."The only thing we have to fear, is fear itself." ...
> *****
>
>
> In lugnet.castle, Thomas Garrison writes:
> > On Thu, 23 May 2002, Troy's Surplus Lego wrote:
> >
> > > > And am I correct in seeing that you're aiming for a 2-high • battlement?
> > > > That leaves minifigs putting a lot of faith in their chest armour. . • .
> > >
> > > How high should they be? I'm admittedly new at this, so suggestions • are
> > > welcome. Links to examples are even more useful. :)
> >
> > Ooh, holy war alert!
> >
> > I would say that the parapet should shield a standing minifig. Thus, • from
> > wall walk to the top the crenal should be four or five bricks, with
> > embrassures at about two bricks. Crenels should be three or four
> > studs wide[1]. Examples are this (I have no
> > idea whose):
> > http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=141573
> > and of course Daniel Siskind's Bloodstone Castle:
> > http://www.brickmania.com/castle/C37.html
> > (really tall parapet there).
> >
> > The other schools of thought call for shorter parapets (for example, as
> > one of the many compromises of "minifig scale"). Examples include 2
> > brick wall + 1 brick crenel (Richard Shamus):
> > http://www.geocities.com/TimesSquare/Castle/1334/
> > and 1 brick wall + 1 brick crenel (David Eaton):
> > http://www.suave.net/~dave/walledtown.html
> > (or any TLC castle).
> >
> > --
> > TWS Garrison
> > http://www.math.purdue.edu/~tgarriso/
> > Remove capital letters in address for direct reply.
> >
> > [1] Unless pierced by an arrow loop, which would be tricky in minifig
> > scale.
|
|
| |
Nice to see this thread coming back!
I suggest a wall of around 13 brick height, including battlements. For
example, a 3 brick high slope at the base on tope of which you can either
have a 6 high wall section, or just build up with bricks. Top that with a 4
brick high paraphet. I know that not everyone likes wall sections, but for
many of us, using them is the only way to build a wall of decent looking
height. If the wall is at least 4 studs thick, we can easily have firing
positions inside the wall for firing out of the windows/arrow slits.
I was at the Tower of London and noticed that on some walls, the battlements
weren't quite high enough to shield a full man (even considering that people
were shorter then), so 4 bricks is probably high enough. We could do them
higher, but the higher we build the walls, the shorter they will end up
being because of limited brick resources. Also I think that a wall of this
height (this low) may look wrongly proportioned with battlements higher than
this. A 2 brick high merlon looks best IMHO at between 4 to 5 bricks wide,
but if I am using castle wall sections, I like building them 3 wide, because
with a two brick gap between them they correspond well with the wall
sections beneath them. This can be down to personal taste of course.
I like making machicolations (2 high and jutting out 2 bricks from the wall
by using 2 inverse slopes on top of each other), and they are much easier
and less parts consuming than building hoardings. But details like this
could feasilbly be down to individual builders. Real castle walls were built
at different periods and were often of different height and thickness.
To balance colour uniformity with the limited brick resources that different
peopel wil have, how about aggreeing on a flat light great wall, but with
towerds being any colour you like. So for example you could have a black,
white or tan tower if you like. This colours scheme can look quite nice, I
think, Kevin Hall has used it to great effect on his walled city;
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=17447
In lugnet.castle, Thomas Garrison writes:
> http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=141573
Thanks for showing a link to my castle. I'm planning on bringing the whole
thing along to BF, but this illustrates quite well what I have in mind,
except that I am suggesting we use only 3 brick high slope at the base
instead of the big ninja wall sections. This shows the kind of
machicolations I try to describe above.
Jeff, I think we should all be able to bring at least one 16 by 16 module.
Perhaps we could have a main road at 16 pegs wide (tan baseplates) and have
8 wide roads for small alleyways between buildings?
How many people are interested in joining in on this grand little project then?
cheers
Magnus
|
|
| |
In lugnet.castle, Magnus Lauglo writes:
> Nice to see this thread coming back!
>
> I suggest a wall of around 13 brick height, including battlements. For
> example, a 3 brick high slope at the base on tope of which you can either
The problem with using slopes at the base is that it requires a lot of them,
and they aren't very common pieces.
> I like making machicolations (2 high and jutting out 2 bricks from the wall
> by using 2 inverse slopes on top of each other), and they are much easier
> and less parts consuming than building hoardings. But details like this
> could feasilbly be down to individual builders. Real castle walls were built
> at different periods and were often of different height and thickness.
Some were, but not all. :) I'd prefer to have a fairly uniform wall for our
town, and Troy has been kind enough to volunteer to make most of the wall
sections for us, so we can be freed to make more buildings. :)
Oh, and I'm still trying to convince Troy to either make the walls flat or have
machicolations. ;)
> Jeff, I think we should all be able to bring at least one 16 by 16 module.
Thats what I'd like to see happen. :)
> Perhaps we could have a main road at 16 pegs wide (tan baseplates) and have
> 8 wide roads for small alleyways between buildings?
I was thinking roads would be 8 studs wide, since I have an idea for them I'd
like to try, and there is no way I could do it on twice the space. 8 wide is
too much for an alley anyways, 4 wide would be better. :) I'm making a
preliminary layout right now, so people can start claiming plots of land. :)
Jeff Stembel
Castle Room Coordinator
Brickfest 2002
|
|
| |
In lugnet.castle, Jeff Stembel writes:
> I was thinking roads would be 8 studs wide, since I have an idea for them I'd
> like to try, and there is no way I could do it on twice the space.
Hi,
I won a large lot of 2x2 round gray plates on e-bay the other day and it
made a good cobble-stone road to use a bunch of these interspersed with
gray, dark gray, and black 1x1 plates and round plates. I've got a picture
of a 5-wide path done like this here:
http://www.chem.ucla.edu/~bnh/lotr/lotrplace03-03.jpg
I wish I could come to this event. It sounds like it will be a lot of fun.
Bruce
|
|
| |
Mookie has done something similar using 2x2 round tiles and 1x1, 1x2 and 2x2
regular tiles. It looked really cool, but can get to be expensive to get
the parts. The path with the round plates looks cool as well, and seems
like it would be much more economical.
Troy
"Bruce Hietbrink" <bnh@chem.ucla.edu> wrote in message
news:Gwu5pA.CGx@lugnet.com...
> In lugnet.castle, Jeff Stembel writes:
>
> > I was thinking roads would be 8 studs wide, since I have an idea for them • I'd
> > like to try, and there is no way I could do it on twice the space.
>
> Hi,
>
> I won a large lot of 2x2 round gray plates on e-bay the other day and it
> made a good cobble-stone road to use a bunch of these interspersed with
> gray, dark gray, and black 1x1 plates and round plates. I've got a • picture
> of a 5-wide path done like this here:
> http://www.chem.ucla.edu/~bnh/lotr/lotrplace03-03.jpg
>
> I wish I could come to this event. It sounds like it will be a lot of • fun.
>
> Bruce
|
|
| |
In lugnet.castle, Troy Cefaratti writes:
> Mookie has done something similar using 2x2 round tiles and 1x1, 1x2 and 2x2
> regular tiles. It looked really cool, but can get to be expensive to get
> the parts.
Yeah. I've only got a few (like 4) 2x2 round tiles.
> The path with the round plates looks cool as well, and seems
> like it would be much more economical.
Another advantage is, of course, that you can pose figs on top of the plates
in stances that would tip over if on top of tiles.
Bruce
|
|
|
