Subject:
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Re: LEGO 7996 and 9V
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.trains
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Date:
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Thu, 10 Jan 2008 17:57:26 GMT
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Viewed:
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10389 times
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In lugnet.trains, Ted Michon wrote:
> Jeffrey-
>
> Of course, there's the "easy" way: Simply use two motors, linked by a wire, and
> separated by enough distance to cover the non-conductive gap caused by using a
> 7996. We have tried this and it works fine (and also improves operation
> elsewhere).
>
> -Ted
>
> In lugnet.trains, Gereon Stein wrote:
> > Hi,
> >
> > I was just wondering - has anyone yet considered whether there might be a way to
> > "9voltify" the LEGO 7996 set (switched rail crossing)? I mean, there we do have
> > a very useful piece of track, however it is only usable for RC trains so far.
> > What could possibly be done about that?
> >
> > While we are at it - would there be any way to modify the RC track to work with
> > "old style" 9V trains? I know it's probably not worth taking all the pain, but
> > since I'd like a 7996 for my layout, I thought I'd ask...
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Jerry
Ted:
That's a great idea! Do you any pictures of your setup and how you routed the
wire between the motors? This sounds like something I would love to try.
Thanks for the tip.
-Dave
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Message has 1 Reply:
 | | Re: LEGO 7996 and 9V
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| (...) Running wires between cars is probably not as tough as getting the lead from the motor to the car or engine. Although LEGO made a train headlamp kit, the wire coming off the motor connector tended to get in the way, especially on turns. We (...) (16 years ago, 11-Jan-08, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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Message is in Reply To:
| | Re: LEGO 7996 and 9V
|
| Jeffrey- Of course, there's the "easy" way: Simply use two motors, linked by a wire, and separated by enough distance to cover the non-conductive gap caused by using a 7996. We have tried this and it works fine (and also improves operation (...) (16 years ago, 10-Jan-08, to lugnet.trains)
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