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In article <FEEoGy.50y@lugnet.com>, Eric Brok <brok@fcjsvc.hvu.nl>
writes
>
> James Powell wrote in message ...
> >
> > >
> > > LEGO tracks are not fit for outside usage and as far as I know there is no
> > > standard gauge close enough to use instead. Duplo trains will do better
> > > though :-)
> >
> >
> > Eric, is this hard earned experence?
> >
> > Please, share the details. I'd think that they would be OK outside...what
> > happenes? do they rust? I don't think that they'd melt/distort too much • over
> > a year or so...Anyone got any real experence?
>
>
>
> Sorry, no actual experience. I just *expect* them to rust from rain and
> distort from sun heat.
> If you don't care wasting your track over a year or so it may do ofcourse.
>
> Eric
>
>
I also have no experience of outdoor models, but I think the main
problem is the plastic, and the rail joints. The plastic will suffer in
the sun, and the joints will be in constant motion, as the metal will be
constantly expanding & contracting as the temperature varies. This will
eventually lead to the connections breaking down.
Nickel silver in long lengths is the best material, as there are fewer
joints, and nickel oxide conducts electricity :-)
I suggest making a track gauge for the correct Lego width, and making
your own, using model railway materials. Also bear in mind that if you
have long runs of track, you will have to add additional power feeds: 9V
doesn't go very far :-)
--
Tony Priestman
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In lugnet.trains, Tony Priestman writes:
> (snip)
> I suggest making a track gauge for the correct Lego width, and making
> your own, using model railway materials. Also bear in mind that if you
> have long runs of track, you will have to add additional power feeds: 9V
> doesn't go very far :-)
> --
> Tony Priestman
from PNLTC's show experience, I can attest that one can operate with loops of
90 feet or more using one set of track leads -- all with no noticeable drop in
performance. Does this qualify as a "horse's mouth" answer? :)
dan parker, PNLTC
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Dan Parker wrote in message ...
> In lugnet.trains, Tony Priestman writes:
> > (snip)
> > I suggest making a track gauge for the correct Lego width, and making
> > your own, using model railway materials. Also bear in mind that if you
> > have long runs of track, you will have to add additional power feeds: 9V
> > doesn't go very far :-)
> > --
> > Tony Priestman
> from PNLTC's show experience, I can attest that one can operate with loops • of
> 90 feet or more using one set of track leads -- all with no noticeable drop • in
> performance. Does this qualify as a "horse's mouth" answer? :)
Hm, that's interesting, because I had noticed trains slowing down on the
other side of my 4'x6' table. But maybe I'm imagining things, or maybe it's
not level enough. Was that with a single motor on the track, or more than
one? Two motors will essentially double the voltage drop (twice the current
being drawn). My primary engines are all dual powered (partly because I've
got the motors, partly for appearance, partly for performance on grades).
Frank
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Frank Filz wrote:
>
> Dan Parker wrote in message ...
> > from PNLTC's show experience, I can attest that one can operate with loops • of
> > 90 feet or more using one set of track leads -- all with no noticeable drop • in
> > performance. Does this qualify as a "horse's mouth" answer? :)
>
> Hm, that's interesting, because I had noticed trains slowing down on the
> other side of my 4'x6' table. But maybe I'm imagining things, or maybe it's
> not level enough. Was that with a single motor on the track, or more than
> one? Two motors will essentially double the voltage drop (twice the current
> being drawn). My primary engines are all dual powered (partly because I've
> got the motors, partly for appearance, partly for performance on grades).
>
> Frank
I have to side with Frank on this one... run a 25 car train with 2 2
motor engines and you will see a speed drop on the far side of a 20 foot
loop. (see my apt pictures to see the layout I'm talking about, it's not
that big). Perhaps PNLTC is running those wimpy euro-trains with only
3-4 2 axle cars instead of REAL trains. :-)
I put power leads every 10 feet of track or so to combat it.
--
Larry Pieniazek larryp@novera.com http://my.voyager.net/lar
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lugnet.
NOTE: I have left CTP, effective 18 June 99, and my CTP email
will not work after then. Please switch to my Novera ID.
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In article <378946E9.C506EA83@voyager.net>, Larry Pieniazek
<lar@voyager.net> writes
>
> I have to side with Frank on this one... run a 25 car train with 2 2
> motor engines and you will see a speed drop on the far side of a 20 foot
> loop. (see my apt pictures to see the layout I'm talking about, it's not
> that big). Perhaps PNLTC is running those wimpy euro-trains with only
> 3-4 2 axle cars instead of REAL trains. :-)
>
> I put power leads every 10 feet of track or so to combat it.
Yes. My model railway experience was that multiple feeds work better.
And with outdoor (semi)permanent track there are other factors, such as
the deterioration in quality of the connections between track sections
when they aren't disassembled very often, and the general dirt which
will accumulate on the rail surface.
And hey, we'd all like to run 25 cars; you shouldn't make fun of the
train challenged :-)
--
Tony Priestman
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