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> I think you will see that the Peasants in these photos are primarily Star Wars
> Figs. Thanks to the Star Wars figs we can have a balanced Medieval society
> instead of 20 king's 40 Soldier's and 2 peasants :-).
>
>
> Eric Kingsley
>
> The New England LEGO Users Group
> http://www.nelug.org/
>
> View My Creations at:
> http://www.nelug.org/members/kingsley/
Erik,
I just looked at your peasant houses. I really like the way you used plates
for roofs, but having built very few MOC's, I've never used anything but roof
bricks. How do you set that up?
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In lugnet.castle, Markus Wolf writes:
> Erik,
>
> I just looked at your peasant houses. I really like the way you used plates
> for roofs, but having built very few MOC's, I've never used anything but roof
> bricks. How do you set that up?
You could probably do it in a few methods (not sure which one Eric uses),
these are just two:
a. using friction pegs and beams.
b. using hinges (base) and <part:3938 (top).
Attach the roof plate to either of these, and the other part (either beam or
hinge) to the wall.
HTH,
-Shiri
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In lugnet.castle, Shiri Dori writes:
> b. using hinges (base) and <part:3938 (top).
Err, that should be (top).
-Shiri
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In lugnet.castle, Shiri Dori writes:
> In lugnet.castle, Shiri Dori writes:
> > b. using hinges (base) and <part:3938 (top).
>
> Err, that should be (top).
>
> -Shiri
Understood. Then what do you do to fill in the wall space in between your
roof plates. It's kind of hard to tell from the pictures.
Thanks for your help.
Markus
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In lugnet.castle, Markus Wolf writes:
> In lugnet.castle, Shiri Dori writes:
> > In lugnet.castle, Shiri Dori writes:
> > > b. using hinges (base) and <part:3938 (top).
> >
> > Err, that should be (top).
> >
> > -Shiri
>
> Understood. Then what do you do to fill in the wall space in between your
> roof plates. It's kind of hard to tell from the pictures.
You could probably use slopes, either 45 degree or other. (depending on how
high your roof is.)
> Thanks for your help.
Glad to!
-Shiri
"And the daffodils look lovely today..."
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Snip
> -Shiri
> "And the daffodils look lovely today..."
"and the rafflesia smell beatly today..."(1)
I heard that it is possible to scan small 3d objects into a scanner-is this
possible With a CIS based scanner? That way i could jump start my delayed
Webpageproject and Shiri-isn't it past your bedtime it must be like what early
moring in the US.Sorry i think i sound lihe someones mom (or house Dad)
One other thing i'm patenting the use of a cape beneath a ufo "armour/sholder
pad)piece-its really tough to do i i want credit
8-)
ravi
(1) a rafflesia is a larse paracitic flower which smells like rotten meat
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In lugnet.castle, Mohan Ravi writes:
> I heard that it is possible to scan small 3d objects into a scanner-is this
> possible With a CIS based scanner?
Why not just try it? I do it all the time with my cheap UMAX scanner.
Minifigs work pretty well.
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In lugnet.castle, Erik Olson writes:
> In lugnet.castle, Mohan Ravi writes:
> > I heard that it is possible to scan small 3d objects into a scanner-is this
> > possible With a CIS based scanner?
>
> Why not just try it? I do it all the time with my cheap UMAX scanner.
> Minifigs work pretty well.
I did i get beastly ghostlike imageswhich don't do minifigs justice\i'll put
one of em spectres up soon (hold on a second new special effect idea!!!!!!-i
need to get a digicam *-()
Ravi
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In lugnet.castle, Mohan Ravi writes:
> In lugnet.castle, Erik Olson writes:
> > In lugnet.castle, Mohan Ravi writes:
> > > I heard that it is possible to scan small 3d objects into a scanner-is this
> > > possible With a CIS based scanner?
> >
> > Why not just try it? I do it all the time with my cheap UMAX scanner.
> > Minifigs work pretty well.
>
> I did i get beastly ghostlike imageswhich don't do minifigs justice\i'll put
> one of em spectres up soon (hold on a second new special effect idea!!!!!!-i
> need to get a digicam *-()
> Ravi
Whoops wrong group but where does it go help me ,ravi the clueless before i
get smited by rigtous indignation-i gotta do something bout me spouting
lines....
TBR
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|
In lugnet.castle, Mohan Ravi writes:
> In lugnet.castle, Mohan Ravi writes:
> > In lugnet.castle, Erik Olson writes:
> > > In lugnet.castle, Mohan Ravi writes:
> > > > I heard that it is possible to scan small 3d objects into a scanner-is this
> > > > possible With a CIS based scanner?
> > >
> > > Why not just try it? I do it all the time with my cheap UMAX scanner.
> > > Minifigs work pretty well.
> >
> > I did i get beastly ghostlike imageswhich don't do minifigs justice\i'll put
> > one of em spectres up soon (hold on a second new special effect idea!!!!!!-i
> > need to get a digicam *-()
> > Ravi
>
> Whoops wrong group but where does it go help me ,ravi the clueless before i
> get smited by rigtous indignation-i gotta do something bout me spouting
> lines....
> TBR
Well, if you're talking about camera/photos of your lego stuff it probably
fits best in lugnet.publish. The best way to move a thread without people
losing track of it is:
a. In 'Newsgroups' you write the new NG in *addition* to the current one
b. in 'Followup-To' you write the new NG
c. somewhere in your post you mention that followups are set to the second
group.*
Followups direct any replies to your post straight into the second NG.
HTH,
-Shiri
* like I'm doing now: (FUT lugnet.admin.general)
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On Mon, 13 Mar 2000 06:04:21 GMT, "ravi" <helixwolf@hotmail.com>
wrote:
> "and the rafflesia smell beatly today..."(1)
[snip]
> (1) a rafflesia is a larse paracitic flower which smells like rotten
> meat
...and which is, oddly enough, the inspiration for the Vileplume
poke'mon. (Its original Japanese name was 'Rafureshia', which is
their version of our word.)
(Followups to l.o-t.f.)
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In lugnet.off-topic.fun, Fred M. Sloniker writes:
> On Mon, 13 Mar 2000 06:04:21 GMT, "ravi" <helixwolf@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > "and the rafflesia smell beatly today..."(1)
>
> [snip]
>
> > (1) a rafflesia is a larse paracitic flower which smells like rotten
> > meat
>
> ...and which is, oddly enough, the inspiration for the Vileplume
> poke'mon. (Its original Japanese name was 'Rafureshia', which is
> their version of our word.)
>
> (Followups to l.o-t.f.)
Actually it was named after a (British-the ducth were getting wacked by the
french)governor general of jave who also founded singapore-can't imagine he
was very happy though,having a smelly flower named after him
Ravi
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In lugnet.castle, Shiri Dori writes:
> In lugnet.castle, Markus Wolf writes:
> > Erik,
> >
> > I just looked at your peasant houses. I really like the way you used plates
> > for roofs, but having built very few MOC's, I've never used anything but roof
> > bricks. How do you set that up?
>
> You could probably do it in a few methods (not sure which one Eric uses),
> these are just two:
>
> a. using friction pegs and beams.
On the plates for the roof, use the Plate with Technic Hole
> b. using hinges (base) and <part:3938 (top).
These would be too fragile. I'd use <part:4625 1x4 Car Roof Hinge
Tile>/1x4 Car Roof Hinge Plate and Car Roof Hinge.
Jeff, "Thallid Lord"
Save the Whales! I may get hungry later... :)
ICQ #66153738
http://members.xoom.com/aulddragon/
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In lugnet.castle, Jeff Stembel writes:
> These would be too fragile. I'd use <part:4625 1x4 Car Roof Hinge
> Tile>/1x4 Car Roof Hinge Plate and Car Roof Hinge.
Apparently, these don't work with line breaks! :) It should read:
1x4 Car Roof Hinge Tile
Jeff, "Thallid Lord"
Save the Whales! I may get hungry later... :)
ICQ #66153738
http://members.xoom.com/aulddragon/
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| |
|
In lugnet.castle, Markus Wolf writes:
>
> > I think you will see that the Peasants in these photos are primarily Star • Wars
> > Figs. Thanks to the Star Wars figs we can have a balanced Medieval society
> > instead of 20 king's 40 Soldier's and 2 peasants :-).
> >
> >
>
> Erik,
>
> I just looked at your peasant houses. I really like the way you used plates
> for roofs, but having built very few MOC's, I've never used anything but roof
> bricks. How do you set that up?
First off I have to give credit to Dave Eaton once again this is really his
design.
http://www.suave.net/~dave/midtown2.html
But I can sure try and explain how its done. :-). I have read several of the
posts writen here by Shiri and Jeff and I will try and address some of their
points as well.
First there are no hinges or Technic pegs involved at all. This system is so
simple you are probably going to scream. Each side of the roof is one big
plate made up of several other plates held together on the bottom with other
plates. The only thing here is that you want to try and keep the connecting
plates 2 studs from any side/edge. If that is impossible it can be done
leaving only 1 stud from the side but that is as close to the edge as you want
to come.
Second the sides of the houses are just one stud wide and for the slope we use
1x2 black 45 degree slopes. The roof plates rest on these slopes so the house
and roof are the same stud width. Now just rest the plates on the slopes and
you are done. :-) Oops that plate just slide right off didn't it. One more
step.
Third, this part is very unscientific. You need a brick usually a 1xX brick (I
like using 1x6's). You attach this to the bottom of the roof plate near the
bottom to keep the plate from sliding off. Where you attach the brick depends
on the slope of the roof and how big the plate is. This is basically trial and
error. Just remember to use the holes as well because this can help you fine
tune how the plate is positioned. You want the to plates to be as close as you
can get at the peak of the roof but you will still get a little gap no matter
what so your peasants will get wet if it rains :-). (It never rains in my LEGO
world so that is not an issue).
I hope that helps. Dave E. might have more insight into the roof design but
this is what works for me.
Eric Kingsley
The New England LEGO Users Group
http://www.nelug.org/
View My Creations at:
http://www.nelug.org/members/kingsley/
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| |
|
In lugnet.castle, Eric Kingsley writes:
> In lugnet.castle, Markus Wolf writes:
> >
> > > I think you will see that the Peasants in these photos are primarily Star
> > > Wars Figs. Thanks to the Star Wars figs we can have a balanced Medieval
> > > society instead of 20 king's 40 Soldier's and 2 peasants :-).
> >
> > I just looked at your peasant houses. I really like the way you used plates
> > for roofs, but having built very few MOC's, I've never used anything but roof
> > bricks. How do you set that up?
>
> First off I have to give credit to Dave Eaton once again this is really his
> design.
>
> http://www.suave.net/~dave/midtown2.html
>
> But I can sure try and explain how its done. :-). I have read several of the
> posts writen here by Shiri and Jeff and I will try and address some of their
> points as well.
>
> First there are no hinges or Technic pegs involved at all. This system is so
> simple you are probably going to scream. Each side of the roof is one big
> plate made up of several other plates held together on the bottom with other
> plates. The only thing here is that you want to try and keep the connecting
> plates 2 studs from any side/edge. If that is impossible it can be done
> leaving only 1 stud from the side but that is as close to the edge as you want
> to come.
Cheater. :P
Anyway, I wasn't trying to descibe how *you* did your houses, I was describing
how I've done houses in the past. :)
Jeff, "Thallid Lord"
Save the Whales! I may get hungry later... :)
ICQ #66153738
http://members.xoom.com/aulddragon/
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In lugnet.castle, Eric Kingsley writes:
> [snip the inanely simple roof design]
> I hope that helps. Dave E. might have more insight into the roof design but
> this is what works for me.
You said exactly everything I'd'a said! It works fairly well as a design, other
than the fact that the roofs fall off if you go carrying them around and tip
them over or anything-- but if you just leave 'em be they're perfectly secure!
Although actually, now that I DO think of it, back to the 'underlying' layer of
plates (beneath the top tan layer)-- I usually make sure the "lip" of the top
layer is 1 stud wide on each edge so that the roof won't slide from side to
side... I think you had mentioned simply to keep any lip at all 1 or 2 studs
wide... But then again, if you're using 2x2 45 degree slopes instead of 1x2 45
degree slopes, then you need to space the lip accordingly (needless to say :)
Anyway, that tends to keep any side to side motion down to a minimum...
DaveE
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