Subject:
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Re: Gutter Talk
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.trains.org
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Date:
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Thu, 1 Nov 2001 16:31:46 GMT
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Viewed:
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338 times
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In lugnet.trains.org, Larry Pieniazek writes:
> Thanks Mike!!
>
> In lugnet.trains.org, Mike Walsh writes:
>
> > Here is a picture of our (NCLTC) gutters:
> >
> > http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=50985
>
> Great fun pic for your web page or for LEGO/GATS to use to promote the kids
> play area but not exactly the kind of detail on mounting we need.
>
> > They are mounted with bolts that go through the gutter and then through the
> > table and then through a block of wood that fits into the table structure.
> > We use the PNLTC style tables so if you are familiar with how the legs
> > mount, the block of wood mounts essentially the same way.
>
> Do you have a pic handy that shows underside or some mounting detail?
Now not having done this myself I thing there are a few things to remember.
1. The Gutters don't need to remain water tight.
2. The Gutters need to have some ridgidity to support a limited amount of
leaning/abuse by spectators.
Now if you had your own tables I would say the solution was easy... Just take
some screws and/or bolts and attach them to the table that way. But...
> A wrinkle for us is that we are attaching to banquet tables supplied by
> GATS... so just like with our drool/reach shields on the main layout, the
> solution needs to work for somewhat varying table types and needs to not
> permanently mar the tables. Something that clips or clamps on is needed.
This makes things much more complicated. But I have a couple ideas you could
look into.
First I assume the tables are a standard size (3'x6') or something similar.
Most banquet tables I remember seem to have about a 1" thick top and underneath
the table there is an approximately 2" gap between the edge of the table and a
2" wide metal support that goes around the table.
Using these dimensions as a guide (Please take real measurments and adjust
accordingly). What I would do would be to assemble the removable gutters
thusly.
Supplies for one side (repeat for other side and adjust dimensions for ends).
1 - 6' Length of gutter capped at both ends.
1 - 6' Length of 1x2 pine
3 - 3" Lengths of 1x2 pine
2 - 12" Lengths of 1x2 pine
4 - Spring Clamps
Several #8 1 1/2" Screws (Wood screws are probably sufficiant but metal screws
may be needed).
Assemble as such.
Outside layer 6' Gutter.
Middle layer 3" 1x2 pine + 12" gap + 12" 1x2 pine + 7.5" gap + 3" 1x2 pine +
7.5" gap + 12" 1x2 pine + 12" gap + 3" 1x2 pine
Inner layer 6' 1x2 pine.
In Ascii "=" = Gutter "-" = 1x2 pine. Each character = 1" (figure out the .5"
parts yourself :-).
========================================================================
--- ------------ ---- ------------ ---
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Now the 1x2 pine serves 3 purposes.
1. Spacer to get the Gutter to the edge of the table.
2. Adds rigidity to the Gutter.
3. Gaps provide spaces to clamp the gutter to the underside of the table.
Of course I don't know how much downward force these could withstand but given
your restriction of not being able to alther/damage the tables this is the best
I could think of.
If you do this remember to take good measurements. If the gap is wider add
strips of 1x2 as needed. Of course my suggestion is to build your own tables.
NELUG does their 40.25"x40.25" tables for about $15 per table and none of the
tables would need more than 2 sides "guttered" so that doesn't put your cost at
much more than $20 per table. (Note we do not paint out tables we use 100%
baseplates on the top so there is no need for paint).
>
> Unless we start building our own tables, that is... need to win a few more
> shows before we have the scratch handy to do that for our entire layout. (we
> keep spending our winnings on bricks and track and stuff) But just building
> 3-4 tables for a kids play area may be a way to get feet wet in the table
> building process (he says, cheerfully volunteering *other* club members for
> the task since his own woodworking skills are nil)...
Of course this is a problem... To date I have constructed all of NELUG's tables
myself. This is partly because I am the only one that dares to put their
woodworking skills to the test and secondly because I have the tools and a
place to build them.
I would also say don't get to hung up on the woodworking part. It is easier
than you think. If you have the skills to build with LEGO (which you have
proven that you do) then you can build these tables. I have Home Depot cut the
plywood for me and the pine is soft enough that you can cut it with a hand saw,
or even with a miter saw in a cheap miter box (under $10 expense). A power
drill and drill bits are very helpful but again these are pretty cheap, you can
get one for under $20 that usually comes with anything you need. I do like to
counter sink my screws and have some special bits for that but you can do this
without special bits as well.
For the legs on tables the are easy to cut to length. The braces are about the
only piece where a power saw is nice, but again I am sure you can work around
that.
Let me know if you have any questions. This kind of thing is pretty easy to
work out if you take the time and I am willing to consult with anyone on doing
their own tables.
Eric Kingsley
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Message has 1 Reply:
 | | Re: Gutter Talk
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| Ben Fleskes designed this system for PNLTC and it works well with our tables as Mike mentioned earlier. We don't use corners. I think they will be a hassle making it necessary to have perfect dimensions... we use just the gutter ends. And BTW it (...) (23 years ago, 1-Nov-01, to lugnet.trains.org)
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Message is in Reply To:
| | Re: Gutter Talk
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| Thanks Mike!! (...) play area but not exactly the kind of detail on mounting we need. (...) Do you have a pic handy that shows underside or some mounting detail? (...) A wrinkle for us is that we are attaching to banquet tables supplied by GATS... (...) (23 years ago, 1-Nov-01, to lugnet.trains.org)
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