Subject:
|
Re: Lego train basics
|
Newsgroups:
|
lugnet.trains
|
Date:
|
Thu, 27 Jul 2000 04:55:50 GMT
|
Viewed:
|
937 times
|
| |
|
|
Some minor disagreements with J2:
In lugnet.trains, John Neal writes:
> Harvey Henkelman wrote:
>
> > I have just completeed my version of an ALCO-like diesel switcher and have
> > some questions...
>
> > 1.Does it matter which end I put the power truck on?(mine is rear wheel • drive)
>
> Nope. I use motors for both trucks to get a consistent look, but it is • entirely a
> matter of taste IMO.
Yes, it does matter. If you only have one motor, put it under the heavier end
of the locomotive. Weight helps adhesion. It may be that the ends are close,
but if you have a low nose, chances are the back is heavier, while if you have
a high nose, chances are the front is heavier.
>
> > 2.My large(three unit) gas turbine locomotive has four(4)motors.Does anyone
> > think this will overwork the single power pack?
>
> Nope.
4 motors and no lights just barely won't overwork a single pack. IMHO.
I feel that 5 will. That has been my consistent experience. The power pack
cuts out and needs to be left alone for a few minutes to an hour to reset
itself. (which is a testimony to the good engineering of the electronics
inside the speed controller)
And opinions differ but I am a huge non fan of running two controllers onto
the same track. Tiny differences in output voltage mean one of them is doing
most or all of the work. Again in my humble opinion, I am not an electronics
engineer.
> Harvey, Harvey-- no one is here to judge you:-) If you think it looks better,
> then it is. If I think it looks better another way, I'll build mine thusly. • What
> I'm trying to say is that there is no right or wrong way to build anything. I
> build my trains 8 studs wide and take a lot of good-natured ribbing for it, • but it
> is all in fun. So don't worry so much about what others think-- at least not
> before you show us pics (hint, hint) of your MOCs;-)
Now this part, J2 got absolutely right. If it feels good, do it. It's your
stuff and you don't need our "approval". Enjoy yourself and ignore those who
snipe at you or your ideas if you want to.
However... If you (the generic you) show us pics and ask for input, we may
offer it but it's intended to be just that, input that you can feel free to
ignore. (people do it in lugnet.trains all the time and if it's American
proto, I and other american proto aficionados do comment on where we think the
looks can be improved, we all benefit from helping each other raise the bar)
We're not trying to hurt your feelings pointing out opportunities for
improvement, after all, you asked for comments.
Bottom line though is... have fun.
++Lar
|
|
Message has 2 Replies:
 | | Re: Lego train basics
|
| (...) Whoa, Nellie! Never advocated *that*;-) This hedonistic approach will result in misery beyond measure IMHO. FUT .debate John (24 years ago, 27-Jul-00, to lugnet.trains)
| | | Re: Lego train basics
|
| (...) Interesting that it takes that long to reset. When I was a kid, I had a train powerpack which used some kind of overload cutoff which reset fairly quickly. I think it was basically a bi-metal strip (which bends when the temperature gets too (...) (24 years ago, 27-Jul-00, to lugnet.trains)
|
Message is in Reply To:
| | Re: Lego train basics
|
| (...) Nope. I use motors for both trucks to get a consistent look, but it is entirely a matter of taste IMO. (...) Nope. (...) Nope. Sounds good. If it's a solvent, be careful around the ABS. (...) Harvey, Harvey-- no one is here to judge you:-) If (...) (24 years ago, 27-Jul-00, to lugnet.trains)
|
7 Messages in This Thread:
  
 
- Entire Thread on One Page:
- Nested:
All | Brief | Compact | Dots
Linear:
All | Brief | Compact
This Message and its Replies on One Page:
- Nested:
All | Brief | Compact | Dots
Linear:
All | Brief | Compact
|
|
|
|
