Subject:
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Re: 30 NEW Train Sets! -- Or Individual Hobby Train Models Pricing
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.trains
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Date:
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Thu, 29 Mar 2007 12:30:31 GMT
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Viewed:
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6025 times
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In lugnet.trains, Jason J Railton wrote:
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In lugnet.trains, Daniel Aubin wrote:
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In lugnet.trains, Jason J Railton wrote:
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In lugnet.trains, Christopher Masi wrote:
Well, my models still don’t appear under ‘trains’, but the cement wagon I
rendered last night has just shown up in ‘Cool Train Creations’, which is a
bit of an honour.
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I really like your cement wagon. In fact, I think it would make a great
starting point for a model of the limestone slurry car pictured below;
I’ve been wanting to model it for some time but I needed to see how you
managed to offset each row by half a plate. Hope you don’t mind if I
“steal” some of your ideas...
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There are four other new ones in there too.
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Two of those designs are mine, the red MMA loco and the tankcar. I also
felt quite honoured and more than a little suprised when I saw them this
morning.
I’ve converted most of my models to version 2,0 and most are posted under my
user name. I haven’t yet posted my (scrambled) Coca-Cola reefer Because I
don’t want LEGO to label it “creation” again.
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Thanks - the offset is done by having four ‘spines’ running from the centre
out to each end, made of headlight bricks. The odd ones are upright, the
even ones bridge between them, face-up. They’re colour-coded blue and black
if you want to look out for them in the slightly odd build process that LDD2
generates. I finish on some face-up ones so the studs stick out for
attaching the ends.
This gives you a whole/half plate step every stud. You then have to build
slices of the tank around it progressively one plate higher up, all the way
to the end.
With a tank of that length, you’re probably best doing it every two studs.
That may be a bit trickier as the continuous spine of headlight bricks won’t
work. They’re still the easiest way to get a half-plate height difference
though. You may need to use the full four studs wide inside to arrange
yours, one pair at a time.
Another bug in LDD2 is that it won’t let you place a brick half a plate above
another stud, even if they would fit perfectly if they came together. I know
solid surfaces shouldn’t strictly lie half a plate above a studded surface,
but when it’s a stud that close above a hole, of course it should work! In
my original model, the tank rested on the baseplate, then there was a radar
dish and mini steering wheel snotted underneath. In this model, I’ve had to
weaken the base by making a hole in it, and make it look like I wanted the
middle 4x4 part to poke through.
Jason R
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Here’s a quick screen capture of the “finished” model. LDD 2,0 doesn’t realy
like working in half-plate offsets. Originally, I started with the headlight
brick spine but the ends of the wagon seemed to curl up! Clipping ricks on the
end was close to impossible because of the difference between the real position
and the added errors. During the construction, I had decided that the support
would come from two 12 x 2 plates imbedded inside the model instead of the
headlight spine. I redid the model using these plates as the starting point and
it went much better since I didn,t accumulate any round-off errors. Still, some
parts were a pain to fit in.
The construction I used resulted in a mostly hollow model so the weight must be
comparable or lower that Jason’s excellent shorter car. Pricewise, its slightly
more expensive at 42,82$ US vs 40,48$ US.
Constructive comments are welcomed.
Daniel Aubin
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