 | | Re: Prepare to cry: 2007 train pics —John Neal
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| | | (...) It's a question better answered by a modder like Ondrew, but I think you are correct-- "channel" probably wasn't the best description. Shaving down would work AFAIK. That is to match track height. Now the 9 volt train motor actually picks up (...) (18 years ago, 6-Jan-07, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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| | | | | Re: Prepare to cry: 2007 train pics —Dave Curtis
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| | | | | In lugnet.trains, John Neal wrote: ..snip.. (...) Hmm... I wonder if that would need to be notched to accept "donor" rail. (...) May well be. I was thinking that the donor rail might not seat well if the rail head profile is too wide. Anyway... (...) (18 years ago, 6-Jan-07, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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| | | | | Re: Prepare to cry: 2007 train pics........adapting metal to plastic rails —Ondrew Hartigan
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| | | | (...) here's the easiest way for me to explain this i can think of. new RC plastic track (URL) old metal rail track minus the metal (URL) to put metal on the new RC track in order to make 9v trains work you need to shave the top and sides of the (...) (18 years ago, 6-Jan-07, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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| | | | | | Re: Prepare to cry: 2007 train pics........adapting metal to plastic rails —Lester Witter
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| | | | | (...) Surfacing tools such as sanders and planers have a lot of torque and would probably tear the parts up Better is a light duty router or rotozip. I think a cutter is beter than a sander to get a smooth result. Either way you might get chipping (...) (18 years ago, 6-Jan-07, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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| | | | | | Re: Prepare to cry: 2007 train pics........adapting metal to plastic rails —Dave Curtis
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| | | | In lugnet.trains, Ondrew Hartigan wrote: ... snip... (...) Yes, helps a lot, thanks! I guess the trick is finding a good way to narrow the rail profile. Since it isn't worth modding the simple straights and curves, any tool would have to fit within (...) (18 years ago, 6-Jan-07, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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