 | | Re: 12v motor in 9v trains - how? —Reinhard "Ben" Beneke
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| | | (...) Hi all! Before anybody trys to convert his 9V train motors, I have to jump in and warn that these 9V motors are really to weak to "pull a fish from a plate" (as we say here). If one exchanges the rubber bands of the wheels against the rubber (...) (22 years ago, 1-Apr-03, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | questions about swapping rubber bands —Cary Clark
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| | | | In lugnet.trains, Reinhard "Ben" Beneke writes: ... (...) Last night I finally got around to filing down a few of my many defective wheel sets and successfully got a single Santa Fe engine (for the first time) to pull five stock Santa Fe cars around (...) (22 years ago, 2-Apr-03, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | Re: questions about swapping rubber bands —Reinhard "Ben" Beneke
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| | | | | (...) Hi Cary, that sounds not to good... :-( (...) I always swapped all 4 rubber bands (at maybe 33% of all my motors - especially those that have not too much ballast but shall pull longer trains). (...) Only on 9V nowadays. In the past a few (...) (22 years ago, 2-Apr-03, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | Re: questions about swapping rubber bands —Ludo Soete
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| | | | (...) Hi Cary, I remember that i got also once a problem with a 9V motor (from a new Metroliner set). I could replace him for a new one after contacting LEGO abouth it. The train could run for abouth 10 rounds and then stopped, but the light in the (...) (21 years ago, 7-Apr-03, to lugnet.trains)
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