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ludo soete wrote:
> >
> > The sign is a micro motor with the sign directly attached. But to get the speed
> > to a good level I used a diode bridge and a zenfer diode (5.1) and ran the whole
> > mess on a train regulator on power level 7. (One down from MAX)
> >
> > <snip ...>
> >
> > > Not to mention the automatic train
> > > crossing.
> >
> > The train crossing is mine. There's a page on it here.
> > http://www.akasa.bc.ca/tfm/lego_traincrossing.html
> >
> > > How many trains did you have running,
> >
> > Dean
> > --
> > Dean Husby
> > LUGNET Member #320
> > TFM's LEGO Workshop - www.akasa.bc.ca/tfm
> > The Vancouver LEGO Club - www.akasa.bc.ca/vlc/
>
> Just some information. I see that you use only 2 red LED's for the crossing
> signal. If you use the round 1x1 bricks, then you can pull the wires through
> the hole of these bricks. On the bottom, you can use a 2x4 technic plate to
> pass these wires back to the outside. I made a crossing signal with 3 LED's
> (2x red,1x yellow [3mm size]) and used thin wire as MAERKLIN uses in there
> trains / points. These wires are thinner than the black LEGO wire so i could
> pull 4 (YES 4 !!) wires throug the round 1x1 bricks
I looked at the crossings around my place and they ALL have huge cables dangling from
the two parts to the base. I thought it was very odd but there you are...
>
> BTW: it's not a zenfer diode but a ZENER diode with a cutoff voltage of 5.1
> volts.
Doh! You know, I know ZENER is correct but my brains says "No no, remember last time
you did that and got it wrong..." Sigh...
--
Dean Husby
LUGNET Member #320
TFM's LEGO Workshop - www.akasa.bc.ca/tfm
The Vancouver LEGO Club - www.akasa.bc.ca/vlc/
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