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 Trains / *26075 (-20)
  12 spoke Train Wheels that were not released
 
A few months ago one of the AFOL's brought to my attention the fact that 12 spoke red train wheels were not produced for sale, and yet they show up in 1968-75 Lego brochures and books. I was unaware just how much this "faux pas" existed in old Lego (...) (20 years ago, 30-Dec-04, to lugnet.general, lugnet.trains)
 
  Re: Santa Fe El Capitan Hi-Level
 
(...) True but changing the color scheme will make the cars NOT be Santa Fe Cars. I think a blue would look very nice but then when you pull them with the Grey Santa Fe Engine it will not look right. =( -AHui (20 years ago, 30-Dec-04, to lugnet.trains)
 
  What's the Buzz? (New Moc by Steve Barile)
 
(URL) Steve- I wanted to comment on your new creation but I didn't want to bury a thread in another, and it appears you aren't going to start a new one yourself.... I like this Bumble Bee-- the color scheme works very well with the medium orange, (...) (20 years ago, 30-Dec-04, to lugnet.trains, FTX)  
 
  My First Train MOC - Red Boxcar
 
Well, it took me 24 years, but I finally built a train MOC: (URL) page>> The 1/5 stud offset technique used to make the ribs of the boxcar is a (URL) Mark Chan> roof technique, slightly modified. This was built as a Christmas gift, but I enjoyed (...) (20 years ago, 30-Dec-04, to lugnet.trains, FTX) ! 
 
  Re: Has anyone made an American 4-4-0 with BBB wheels?
 
Yes, the piston and connecting rod design certain can seperate the men from the boys (& women from the girls). In fact that's where most of my time was spent on the Bumble Bee! And BTW thanks for the confession! :) Here's a few pics and a few words: (...) (20 years ago, 29-Dec-04, to lugnet.trains)
 
  The making of Thomas the Tank Engine
 
As promised to John I have scanned and uploaded an article about the making of the Thomas the Tank Engine series. It can be found at (URL) once moderated Deep links: Page 1: (URL) 2: (URL) 3: (URL) (20 years ago, 29-Dec-04, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.off-topic.fun)  
 
  Re: Has anyone made an American 4-4-0 with BBB wheels?
 
(...) Thanks for the exclamation point, and, yep, you got the piston thing right. I wanted a round cylinder. In the picture that I was using, the cylinder looked like a cylinder with a box on top. I choose to emphasize the cylinder instead of the (...) (20 years ago, 29-Dec-04, to lugnet.trains)
 
  Re: Has anyone made an American 4-4-0 with BBB wheels?
 
Nice work Chris! Can you explain a little about your driver links. It looks like the piston rod is static and that technic element slides along it...??? SteveB PS I just finished a 2-6-0 Mogul in Rio Grande Bumblebee livery (Med Orange, Black & (...) (20 years ago, 28-Dec-04, to lugnet.trains)
 
  Re: Grade Crossing Signal Thingy...
 
(...) Yeah, I am not too crazy about modding LEGO either, but there are some mods that are fine by me. Chris's read switches are just such a mod. His crossing gates are awesome, and the read switches that control them work very well. I just I (...) (20 years ago, 28-Dec-04, to lugnet.trains)
 
  Re: How do I power a long track?
 
(...) Good thought, Patrick. Thanks. I didn't build the framework that the track rides on--it was in the house when I bought it, so I didn't think to check how level it was. Mark (20 years ago, 28-Dec-04, to lugnet.trains)
 
  Re: How do I power a long track?
 
(...) Hello, Just something I thought of that may be worth bringing up as trouble shooting your problem would be making sure that your layout around the perimeter of your son's room is level all around. Sure it sounds like a power issue in the far (...) (20 years ago, 28-Dec-04, to lugnet.trains)
 
  Re: How do I power a long track?
 
(...) Thanks for the info, Mark. The train I am running is one of the Large Locomotives (Item#: KT105). I have 5 passenger cars (Item#: 10015), and 1 caboose (Item#: 10014). Total of 1 motor. I was thinking that maybe I had too many cars on it, but (...) (20 years ago, 27-Dec-04, to lugnet.trains)
 
  Re: How do I power a long track?
 
(...) What sort of trains are you running? The advice depends on this as it specifies the power requirement. My layout has a circuit of 106 pieces of track and I use parallel-connected feed wires, one at each end, so that the through-sidings on each (...) (20 years ago, 27-Dec-04, to lugnet.trains)
 
  Re: How do I power a long track?
 
(...) [SNIP] (...) Hi Chris, we have used even more than 3 controllers on one long loop at FGLTC shows. The controllers have not even been put to the same speed level. No problems occured, since the LEGO equipment is really sturdy and kid proof. I (...) (20 years ago, 27-Dec-04, to lugnet.trains)
 
  Re: How do I power a long track?
 
(...) Hey John, Thanks for the advice. I don't have any pictures posted yet, sorry. If I ever get that done, I'll post something about it. I kind of liked the idea suggested earlier about simply running two power lines from the same regulator to (...) (20 years ago, 27-Dec-04, to lugnet.trains)
 
  Re: How do I power a long track?
 
(...) John, Two controlers on the same track? In the past, people have always said that two controlers on the same track was a bad idea. The explanation that was put forward was that the controler that was running at a slightly lower voltage would (...) (20 years ago, 26-Dec-04, to lugnet.trains)
 
  Re: How do I power a long track?
 
(...) The GMLTC has this problem in our 'small' (approximately 100 feet of track) loop, because our larger 8-wide trains are heavy and we really work the motors hard. Our solution? Add another speed regulator! We put one at each end of the dogbone, (...) (20 years ago, 26-Dec-04, to lugnet.trains)
 
  Re: How do I power a long track?
 
(...) If that's causing the trouble, there's a couple of things you can do. Clean the contacts with a pencil eraser to remove dirt, finger oils, and surface corrosion. Carefully apply a little bit of "contact conditioner", available at computer and (...) (20 years ago, 26-Dec-04, to lugnet.trains)
 
  Re: Santa Fe El Capitan Hi-Level
 
A builder can always change the color scheme. The more important thing is your design, which, as always, is excellent. "James Mathis" <thakius@nmt.edu> wrote in message news:I96rsI.xuD@lugnet.com... (...) (20 years ago, 26-Dec-04, to lugnet.trains)
 
  Re: How do I power a long track?
 
(...) I agree with the advice John gave, although not completely with the "why"... the drop in voltage is, in my view, due to the resistance at each track sections abutment with the next. (...) It is in your posting setup rather than you profile, (...) (20 years ago, 25-Dec-04, to lugnet.trains)


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