Subject:
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Re: The Canoe Myth of .pirates
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.pirates
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Date:
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Thu, 21 Aug 2003 05:48:17 GMT
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Viewed:
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2953 times
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In lugnet.pirates, Richie Dulin wrote:
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In lugnet.pirates, Stephen Rowe wrote:
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In lugnet.pirates, Richie Dulin wrote:
lego’s hulls do lend themselves
to be shaped like a canoe when strung together, but i think it is not
because of the number of hull sections, but the lack of any type of
progressive hull curvature along the length of the ship. what i mean is, the
beam was not the same at any one point on the ship. as you walk down the
side of a ship, you can see that the ship is not bowed only at the bow and
stern. if you look at a topdown cutaway of the decks, they bow outward until
about 1/3 of the length, then they straighten out, then begin to bow inward
again, but at a less extreme angle, where they finally get to their
narrowest at the stern. legos hull parts are perfectly straight. only the
bow and stern sections are bowed, or show any taper at all. now, this works
for smaller ships because the tapering sections are proportionally correct
for the ship,
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Good thoughts, however: (1) the LEGO consitution looks ‘right’ doesn’t it?
Despite being even narrower than it should be for its length and (2) the
stern taper can be represented in the top part of the hull, if necessary.
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i think that the lego Constellation looks “right” because it is such a small
scale, that the finer detail dont always matter as much. for instance, it doesnt
have the correct number of stays, ropes, etc, but because it is so small, these
are largely ignored because they would not add to the ship. generally, larger
models are more well detailed, because the eye can take a much more discerning
look than one may with smaller models. the constellation look right at the
current size, but if you doubled the scale, and enlarged the ship, it should
begin to strike you as more canoe like. the stern taper can be represented on
the top of the hull, but only so much. the lower hull does not taper until the
final hull piece, and with a ship of 3-4 hull sections (bow, stern, 1-2 center
sections) the taper is enough to look proportionally correct, as it accounts for
1/3 to 1/4 of the ship length. however, when a ship gets larger, aka: more
sections, the proportion of tapering hull to straight hull becomes far less.
with a ship of 4-5 center sections, the taper drops to just 1/6 to 1/7 of the
complete hull length.
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Maybe, I should spend a couple of hours building a double scale
Constellation Hull? The Port Brique shipwrights have been
uncharacteristically idle for the last few weeks.
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you know what they say about the devil and idle hands ;-) if you do, please take
some pics to let us know how it came out, who knows, it may look good!
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but when you
string hull parts together, they just become more and more straight, hence,
the “canoe” look. now, as you said, if one builds the hull up nicely, you
can help to break the canoe look up, but at some point, it begins to look
like a double decked canoe!
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I’m not convinced, but I haven’t done the experimentation. An eight centre
Misérable II is on the cards, but a long way off (months, not weeks!)
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watch out men, it’s the french long-frigate, Miserable II!!!!!!
well, i attempted to build a 2 decker of 6 center sections one time. now, i
didnt think about widening the hull with inverse slopes, but i thought that if i
lengthened the ship enough, it would look okay if i built it higher. alas, it
began to take on the look of the “double decked canoe”, it was just too high,
and too straight, and obviously not wide enough. so, i abandoned the project,
and broke it down into two ships. however, i have a ship almost completed right
now, another 4 center one, but after all this, i think i will try to increase it
to 5. it does appear a little beefy for it’s length.
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personally, i like to stick with ships with 4 center
sections. i can build these ships large enough to get a respectible number
of guns on them, but they do not begin to look unwieldy. however, that is
just my opinion.
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I think 4 centre sections is ideal as a compromise - it’s playable, the masts
are easy, the rigging is mostly easy, and there’s enought space on (and
below) deck for a decent amount of activity.
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ahhhh, easy way out huh? ha ha just kidding! yeah, i just run into so many
problems that go hand in hand with inreasing the length.
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you made another interesting comment about the masts. i have a problem with
the lego masts: they are a fixed size (diameter). this sonds funny, but on
large ships, the masts that look just right on 4 center section ships, begin
to look thinner and thinner in relation to the size of the ship, so while
one can go high, one has more problems trying to make the masts appear
beefy. as with all lego, there must be more than one way to skin a cat, but
i havent run across it yet!
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2x2x11 (iirc) rounds are a good start. It’s hard to make a strong conection
to the top of them though. (I use a collar made from 2x2 L-bricks under a 4x4
mast base) 2x2 rounds with a technic rod through the centre are also useful.
But the rigging to hold it steady is the tricky bit.
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yeah, i had that problem with my failed 6 center section baby, the masts were
just so incredibly fragile.
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Sandwiched plates (a la Constellation) are also a possibility. With the use
of 2x1 plates with one tile, you could probably even get a vaguely rounded
cross section.
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HA HAAH! (dashingly said) build on good man! good luck with your
experimentation.
thanks
steve
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Thanks for the comments!
Adieu
Richie Dulin
| | Port Brique
Somewhere in the South Pacifique
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| | Misérable
Building a safer South Pacifique
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Message is in Reply To:
 | | Re: The Canoe Myth of .pirates
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| (...) Good thoughts, however: (1) the LEGO consitution looks 'right' doesn't it? Despite being even narrower than it should be for its length and (2) the stern taper can be represented in the top part of the hull, if necessary. Maybe, I should spend (...) (21 years ago, 20-Aug-03, to lugnet.pirates, FTX)
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