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(...) There is an alternative to the brasso, especially if you are merely trying to do away with scratches and not trying to remove print. The key, FUTURE's Floor Wax. It has been used by model airplane builders forever. Check it out here (URL) Kam (18 years ago, 23-Feb-07, to lugnet.parts, lugnet.space)
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| | Re: Clearing up scratches on pieces
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(...) I seem to recall it also takes the rough textured surface off slope bricks. ROSCO (18 years ago, 23-Feb-07, to lugnet.parts, lugnet.space)
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| | Re: Clearing up scratches on pieces
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(...) I'll have to give that stuff a try. Thanks for the advice. Are there any issues with using it on transparent parts? -G (remove the capital S's in the email) (URL) (18 years ago, 23-Feb-07, to lugnet.parts, lugnet.space)
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| | Re: Clearing up scratches on pieces
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(...) Be warned, though: Brasso will seriously damage softer plastic parts like baseplates. I totally ruined a 48x48 baseplate that way when I used it to brasso the printing off of large quantity of tiles. --Anthony (18 years ago, 23-Feb-07, to lugnet.parts, lugnet.space)
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| | Re: Clearing up scratches on pieces
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(...) nope (...) let it sit for 30mins then wipe it clean again but other than that it's really a one step process. ondrew (...) (18 years ago, 23-Feb-07, to lugnet.parts, lugnet.space)
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| | Re: Clearing up scratches on pieces
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(...) Do you do anything to prepare the piece? Also, do you do anything after like wash it? If so, with what? Thanks, Jude (18 years ago, 23-Feb-07, to lugnet.parts, lugnet.space)
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| | Re: Clearing up scratches on pieces
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(...) out. it also works great to remove printing on bricks so be carefull if you're not looking to remove it. i usualy use a old sock followed by an old Tshirt. ondrew (18 years ago, 23-Feb-07, to lugnet.parts, lugnet.space)
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| | Clearing up scratches on pieces
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It's been years since I last posted here. I'm trying to restore the condition of some old pieces and thought someone here might know how to go about this. I got two of the 6989 MCM quarter domes off Bricklink a while ago, but they turned out to have (...) (18 years ago, 22-Feb-07, to lugnet.parts, lugnet.space)
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| | Re: Hypothetically speaking? the future of IR/RC trains
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(...) I also had no problems running a train when I metalized some 4.5v track using some thin metal tape. (URL) But this did increase the hieght of the rail by a samll amount. I picked up ~500 peices of lt bley straight 4.5v style plastic track (...) (18 years ago, 21-Feb-07, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: Hypothetically speaking? the future of IR/RC trains
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(...) I haven't had any problems running the new IR freight train on my old blue track. Even going through points went okay. Niels (18 years ago, 20-Feb-07, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: From Jared Burks AKA Kaminoan
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(...) Well, while it does require you to cut your elements it is almost all Lego parts. Two parts completely unmodified, the tires/wheels and the little black slope used for the seat. Front Fork is cut off of this part: (URL) This is then cut in (...) (18 years ago, 20-Feb-07, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: Hypothetically speaking? the future of IR/RC trains
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(...) while the distance between the rails is identical the depth of the rail is not. unfortunetly this lets 4.5v trains run on 9v track but not the other way around because 9v train wheels have a longer flange depth.. ondrew (18 years ago, 20-Feb-07, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: Hypothetically speaking? the future of IR/RC trains
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(...) It's possible you could get reasonable running by butting them up against one another, but no, they're not really designed to click together. If you ask Ondrew nicely, he may be able to come up with a nice adapter solution though. ROSCO (18 years ago, 20-Feb-07, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: From Jared Burks AKA Kaminoan
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(...) Hi Rob, we're currently working on it in this very moment ;-) Thanks, Rene (18 years ago, 19-Feb-07, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: From Jared Burks AKA Kaminoan
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Wow! I have a question: How many parts from the motor bike are unmodified? Mufflers and tires? Thanks, Haoyang Wang (18 years ago, 19-Feb-07, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | From Jared Burks AKA Kaminoan
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Jared has set up his Lugnet account, but hasn't been able to make a post yet (Rene, could you look into this?). I've been asked to post this for him: Well I haven't posted here, but I am guessing that many of you know me from other boards. Here is (...) (18 years ago, 18-Feb-07, to lugnet.general, lugnet.parts.custom, lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: Which glue?
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(...) For plastics, I'd recomend "GOOP" over silicon adhesive. It has a small amount of solvent to adhere to plastic, and sets faster. The stuff is like a hybrid of Silicon and rubber cement. As for CA (superglue), the fumes are nearly as dangerous (...) (18 years ago, 17-Feb-07, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: Which glue?
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(...) Unless this will be surely permanent, and a tight fit already, I'd recommend clear silicon caulk. That provides a back-out plan, if you need to undo, and flexibility between parts. But it may be too bulky and gap-filling for your smaller (...) (18 years ago, 9-Feb-07, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: Which glue?
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(...) No they are quite different. (URL) MEK> is not even a glue or epoxy at all. It is rather a solvent that literally loosens the plastic molecules of the ABS, and allows them to intertwine between bricks. Once it evaporates, the ABS returns to a (...) (18 years ago, 9-Feb-07, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: Which glue?
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(...) AFAIK. Have you heard otherwise? I thought Super Glue was in the same type glue family as MEK. JOHN (18 years ago, 9-Feb-07, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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