 | | Best Way to Cut Baseplates
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I'm in a design "pickle" of sorts. Not too long ago I began cutting up the 48 studs sq. baseplates to retangular forms so I may use them on platforms for bridges. OK, that's easy, but how can I do "stepped" cuts? Say, I want to cut out an area, (...) (23 years ago, 5-Mar-02, to lugnet.general)
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| | Re: Best Way to Cut Baseplates
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(...) The normal cutting method of scoring the plate with a sharp knife and snapping it works best on strait cuts. One posibility is to take a piece of 1/8 inch (or metric equivalent) masonite (any thin sheet material) and cut the pattern with a (...) (23 years ago, 5-Mar-02, to lugnet.general)
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| | Re: Best Way to Cut Baseplates
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If you want to do this by hand and you are patient, you can make these cuts by using a small drill for the intersections of the cuts and a very sharp blade such as an X-Acto. Drill first, then cut by repeated scoring between the 2 drilled points (...) (23 years ago, 5-Mar-02, to lugnet.general)
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| | Re: Best Way to Cut Baseplates
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I like both Lester's idea and yours. Getting cheapo non-Lego bricks is easy in my group and hacking those up sounds more pleasurable than the real stuff. It's been those inside corners that have really been in my head and the drill idea sounds like (...) (23 years ago, 6-Mar-02, to lugnet.general)
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| | Re: Best Way to Cut Baseplates
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One alternative would be to use a small bit on a high speed router. I've seen Formica and similar laminates cut with great precision with no burring or chipping. I have not tried this myself (yet) but was pondering sacrificing a baseplate to learn (...) (23 years ago, 6-Mar-02, to lugnet.general)
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| | Re: Best Way to Cut Baseplates
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(...) Clippers that would cut something as thick as a baseplate might have problems with the studs getting in the way. I really think a scroll saw is the way to go use a spiral bit which can change cutting directions at any time (0 turning radius). (...) (23 years ago, 6-Mar-02, to lugnet.general)
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| | Re: Best Way to Cut Baseplates
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(...) Those cutters typically have a 1/8" (sorry I in the US so no metric) blade which is the amount of material lost in the cut (the kerf in woodworking terms) this means that one of the two sides in the cut would have a bad row on the edge. Scroll (...) (23 years ago, 6-Mar-02, to lugnet.general)
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