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In lugnet.trains, Reinhard “Ben” Beneke wrote:
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Hi all!
In the past we have collected some demands we train heads have on driver
wheels. These have been requested several times at TLC so far.
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This is something i have spent hours working out (in my mind) as I walk the dog
every night! My conclusions end up lookin pretty much the same as yours
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Here comes the wishlist to make up a draft for a new driver wheel:
1.) technic axle center
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Yes
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2.) peg hole for connecting rods
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yes
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3.) diameter bigger than set 7750 and smaller than set 396
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How did you reach this?
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4.) flange design similar to 9V wheels
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yes
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5.) narrow gaps between two wheels
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do you mean the gap between two flanges of adjacent wheels, if so yes
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6.) distance between centers of two neighbour wheels in a “common” dimension
(4 stud / 5 stud / 6 stud?)
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yes
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7.) running diameter dimension fitting to 9V and 12V wheel diameters
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yes
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8.) wheel thickness higher than 9V and less than 1 stud (avoid contact
between moving rods and wheel)
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so the thickest bit is the pin connector hole?
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9.) counterweight as “click-on” extra part, (if 2 moulds were possible)
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Would be nice but by no means essential,
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10.) shape not 100% after real prototypes but kind of “legoish”.
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a generic wheel is best
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11.) center stud with Legologo
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not at all essential (imho)
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12.) ((Extra wish -Additionally a wheel without flange (blind driver) should
be available.))
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perhap the wheel and the flange could be seperate mouldings.
e.g the wheel piece looks fairly similar to the existing large spoke wheel that
people use with the addition of axle and pin holes and no groove arround the
circuference and the flange piece be a pretty simple ring shaped piece with a
click fit onto the wheel
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Question:
If only one single mould would be possible due to too low demand and high
costs for new moulds, what would you prefer: Should the counterweight be
included in that wheel-mould or not? In case of only one mould being
possible, the users would surely obmit in blind drivers (since anybody could
easiely cut the flange off himself - better have a wheel with flanges than
not having it....).
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I have also been thinking more complicated than this for electricity pickup
using a metal flange etc but I think simplicity is the key if we are going to
get anyone to make it. This is the one piece that I would be prepared to go
non-lego for
Tim
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In lugnet.trains, Tim David wrote:
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In lugnet.trains, Reinhard “Ben” Beneke wrote:
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3.) diameter bigger than set 7750 and smaller than set 396
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How did you reach this?
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Hi Tim!
??You are asking why I demand this (bigger than set 7750 and smaller than set
396)? Both sizes do exist. So I see no highly urgent need for those. The size
inbetween is not only a compromise, but in my eyes the golden center.
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5.) narrow gaps between two wheels
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do you mean the gap between two flanges of adjacent wheels, if so yes
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Yes, I meant that. Sorry for my bad use of language....
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8.) wheel thickness higher than 9V and less than 1 stud (avoid contact
between moving rods and wheel)
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so the thickest bit is the pin connector hole?
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Not really, since this hole is shorter than 1 stud. (look at any technik brick
and you will recognise that the hole is shorter than the width of 1 stud).
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9.) counterweight as “click-on” extra part, (if 2 moulds were possible)
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Would be nice but by no means essential,
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I agree in the meantime. The majority seems to prefer included counterweights.
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10.) shape not 100% after real prototypes but kind of “legoish”.
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a generic wheel is best
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What is your definition of a “generic” wheel?
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11.) center stud with Legologo
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not at all essential (imho)
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But it would be really nice in case the wheel is from a third party: it gives a
more legoish feeling and increases the acceptance(imho).
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12.) ((Extra wish -Additionally a wheel without flange (blind driver) should
be available.))
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perhap the wheel and the flange could be seperate mouldings.
e.g the wheel piece looks fairly similar to the existing large spoke wheel
that people use with the addition of axle and pin holes and no groove arround
the circuference and the flange piece be a pretty simple ring shaped piece
with a click fit onto the wheel
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Hard to realize this for 1 running diameter. And you need 2 moulds in both cases
anyway.
Leg Godt!
Ben
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In lugnet.trains, Reinhard “Ben” Beneke wrote:
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In lugnet.trains, Tim David wrote:
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In lugnet.trains, Reinhard “Ben” Beneke wrote:
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|
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11.) center stud with Legologo
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not at all essential (imho)
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But it would be really nice in case the wheel is from a third party: it gives
a more legoish feeling and increases the acceptance(imho).
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A third party wheel CLEARLY could NOT have the LEGO logo on it... so your
solution of sizing an opening to let the user insert a 1x1 round plate (and thus
having the logo on there if they wish) is absolutely brilliant. It ALSO leaves
the door open to someone building an outside frame locomotive since the axle
hole allows the axle to pass all the way through.
The more I look at this design the more I find to like about it.
++Lar
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In lugnet.trains, Larry Pieniazek wrote:
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In lugnet.trains, Reinhard “Ben” Beneke wrote:
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In lugnet.trains, Tim David wrote:
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In lugnet.trains, Reinhard “Ben” Beneke wrote:
|
|
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| |
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11.) center stud with Legologo
|
not at all essential (imho)
|
But it would be really nice in case the wheel is from a third party: it
gives a more legoish feeling and increases the acceptance(imho).
|
A third party wheel CLEARLY could NOT have the LEGO logo on it... so your
solution of sizing an opening to let the user insert a 1x1 round plate (and
thus having the logo on there if they wish) is absolutely brilliant. It ALSO
leaves the door open to someone building an outside frame locomotive since
the axle hole allows the axle to pass all the way through.
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I’d missed the fact that the ‘cover’ could be a 1X1 round, that is a veryy good
idea. One of my misgivings with a cover was the fact of outside framed locos so
this would be best all round
Tim
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In lugnet.trains, Reinhard “Ben” Beneke wrote:
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In lugnet.trains, Tim David wrote:
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In lugnet.trains, Reinhard “Ben” Beneke wrote:
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3.) diameter bigger than set 7750 and smaller than set 396
|
How did you reach this?
|
Hi Tim!
??You are asking why I demand this (bigger than set 7750 and smaller than set
396)? Both sizes do exist. So I see no highly urgent need for those. The size
inbetween is not only a compromise, but in my eyes the golden center.
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Sorry, I wasn’t saying that I though that this was the wrong size, just
wondering how you arrived at it.
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8.) wheel thickness higher than 9V and less than 1 stud (avoid contact
between moving rods and wheel)
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so the thickest bit is the pin connector hole?
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Not really, since this hole is shorter than 1 stud. (look at any technik
brick and you will recognise that the hole is shorter than the width of 1
stud).
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Yes, I should have looked better at the images. The ring aroung the middle of
the pin (or where the middle of the pin would be if it was a full pin) moved the
coupling rod out away from the wheel.
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9.) counterweight as “click-on” extra part, (if 2 moulds were possible)
|
Would be nice but by no means essential,
|
I agree in the meantime. The majority seems to prefer included
counterweights.
| |
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10.) shape not 100% after real prototypes but kind of “legoish”.
|
a generic wheel is best
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What is your definition of a “generic” wheel?
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I just meant not to try to copy any one real wheel too much as then it wouldn’t
look so much like other wheels, Your wheel is what I mean by generic, you
haven’t tried to make it like the wheels on any one locomotive but rather a
‘generic’ mix of all locos. It also has the Lego look.
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11.) center stud with Legologo
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not at all essential (imho)
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But it would be really nice in case the wheel is from a third party: it gives
a more legoish feeling and increases the acceptance(imho).
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As I replied to Lar i didn’t realise that this was 1X1 round stud, a good idea
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12.) ((Extra wish -Additionally a wheel without flange (blind driver)
should be available.))
|
perhap the wheel and the flange could be seperate mouldings.
e.g the wheel piece looks fairly similar to the existing large spoke wheel
that people use with the addition of axle and pin holes and no groove
arround the circuference and the flange piece be a pretty simple ring shaped
piece with a click fit onto the wheel
|
Hard to realize this for 1 running diameter. And you need 2 moulds in both
cases anyway.
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I dont think I explained it very well, I’ll have to do some drawing to show it
better I think. However there would only be one complicated mould with the
spokes and axle hole etc and the other would be simple.
Tim
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