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In lugnet.parts.mod, Richie Dulin wrote:
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Ahoy,
It has long been discussed, and claimed once – but no evidence has been provided.
But I have done it!
I’ve cut six centre sections, and a single bow section, as that is what’s
needed for the rebuild of my Misérable. No widened stern section(1) is required, so I haven’t attempted
that yet.
The cutting is simple - I used a hacksaw, with the pieces attached to bricks
held fast in a vise. I cut by eye, as the accuracy of the cut is not
critical(2). After I cut one centre section, I realised it was easier to cut
at a point that isn’t the midline of the piece, as there’s a reinforcing
rib moulded there, and it’s just extra plastic to cut through.
Cutting the pieces doesn’t particularly affect the functioning of the pieces,
they can just be joined back together (and the joins covered) with plates. In
the widened configuration, the joins are spanned by plates, and the extra bow
width filled with inverted slopes either side of the keel.
Here’re some pics
While I still maintain my view that
six hull sections isn’t necessarily canoelike, what spurred me to do this
cutting was the desire for more deck space. When the beam is extended by up
to 8 studs (on top of the four extra studs gained from a double row of
inverted slopes), there’s a lot more room on board! Also, the hull taper on
the new Misérable, acheived through variably widened hull sections, does
look nice(3).
Cheers
Richie Dulin
(1) The design of the stern sections present several difficulties for the
prospective hull bisector, with the moulded keel of the stern section a
difficult obstacle indeed. I have some ideas on how to do it, but that’ll
have to wait until (or if) I build a ship of the line.
(2) The edges of the cuts are not generally visible in completed models. Nor
is it necessary (in my design, anyway) to butt them against other pieces.
(3) The new Misérable is still under construction. The hull’s more-or-less
complete to the scuppers, but there’s a lot of internal work still to go.
Plus the deck. Plus the rig. Plus a new suit of sails. Completion is still
weeks away.
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Richie,
First off, get yourself a razor saw, this will give you cleaner cuts that remove
less material. I’d recomend cutting the sections down the middle , and not
offset. Make you initial cut across the top. Then flip it over, anduse side
cutters to cut the ends of the molded rib. If the cut is centered over the rib,
you should be able to pull it free now. You can remove any extra material around
the cuts with a hobby knife. And even glue some tile or shaved plates to the
underside if you want it really secure.
As for the stern, seperate the top from the bottom before cutting. I’d split the
top down the middle, and remove the keel section as 2 stud wide piece:
 Use a
hobby knife to make the cross cut. After making the long cuts with a saw, score
the plastic with the knife and the plastic should breack off aling the line.
Having split hull sections is what LEGO should have had from the begining. I
have ~20 ships in my collection, mostly BSB. But 2 are COKO brand clones. The
COKO ships came with split hull sections that were otherwise nearly identical to
LEGO’s.
Mat
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Message has 1 Reply:
 | | Re: W I D E hull sections, anyone?
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| (...) out of curiosity, where did you find your COKO ships? Some of the models look very interesting and would not mind getting my hand on one. I don't know if it is the same company or another asian company, but Oxford Korea also makes really neat (...) (19 years ago, 12-Jun-05, to lugnet.pirates, lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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Message is in Reply To:
| | W I D E hull sections, anyone?
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| Ahoy, It has long been discussed, and (URL) claimed> once – but no evidence has been provided. But I have done it! I’ve cut six centre sections, and a single bow section, as that is what’s needed for the rebuild of my (URL). No widened stern (...) (19 years ago, 1-Jun-05, to lugnet.pirates, lugnet.boats, lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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