Results 1 – 5 of about 30.
|
Search took 0.00 CPU seconds.
|
|
| |
Hi all,
There have been various threads here discussing use of bleach for restoring
yellowed white bricks, some with better success than others. But has anyone
thought about using "green bleach", or hydrogen peroxide, to do the same?
I recently bought a bottle of such green bleach for C$2.5 compared to ~$1 for
chlorine bleach, specifically for this purpose. There's a blurb on it about
being colour safe too. I used that undiluted to bleach the pieces of a recently
acquired, but very yellowed, 8480 shuttle set. (YES! 8480!!!)
It seems to work for some slight yellowing, but appears to have no effect on
others, even when they have been soaked for close to a week.
Also, I thought about the 'colour fast' bit and decided to put a few
red/blue/yellow bricks in the stuff to check it out. Colour seems to be okay,
but I pulled them after one day so I'm not sure of the long term effects.
I won't know how strong my green bleach is, but there's also the 3% pharmacy
type that comes in little bottles.
Any thoughts appreciated. Seems like I could be the first one to come out with
this idea...
Thanks
Keith
|
|
|
| 
bleach
(score: 1.004)
|
|
| |
In lugnet.general, Jindrich Kubec wrote:
> Has anybody tried to bleach yellowed parts?
Bleach is great for dirt, but yellowing of ABS is caused by a chemical breakdown
of the plastic molecules, not surface dirt. ABS is not UV-stable, and natural
ABS (which has a milky beige color) will turn brown and brittle/powdery over
time. Some coloring agents will lend a touch of UV-stability to the ABS (black
ABS, which is colored with carbon, is 100% UV-stable), but white doesn't appear
to be one of them. The only way to clean the yellow color off is to scrape away
the surface until you get back down to white plastic, and that's not advisable
if you care about the condition of your bricks.
Now, I know cigarette smoke will cause ABS to yellow, but I don't have any
experience with that. It's possible that you can bleach smoke-yellowing out,
but I'd suggest trying it out on one small brick that you don't particularly
value before subjecting large portions of your collection to the process.
|
|
|
|
bleach
(score: 1.004)
|
|
| |
A 1/4 part bleach to 3/4 parts water -- or some other milder conconction of
bleach to water -- used on white, grey, or clear bricks and left to soak for 1-
2 weeks will absolutely work. I have done it, I know it for a fact that it
works. The result is old, yet very clean, bricks. I don't know what happens
to other colors. Discoloration on other colors is not as obvious, I guess.
Actual dirt may be cleaned off with a good soak in "simple green" mixed with
water, and then brushed off with a soft toothbrush if need be, or merely
rinsed off after some marginal scrubbing with a sponge -- and not the side
with the scrub pad, just the plain old sponge part. Most people don't realize
that the scrubbing pad side of a sponge is abrasive enough to polish metal --
and indeed it is used for this purpose in jewelry making and sculpture.
Brasso is the stuff for nicks, scratches and removing printing, not whitening.
I am beginning to think that this question, and other modification questions,
come up so frequently that there REALLY ought to be a FAQ posted here on
Lugnet somewhere. And there really should be a customizing subgroup too.
Some of these methods of cleaning and so forth might be considered radical
enough as to constitute a modification of the element in question.
-- Richard
|
|
|
|
bleach
(score: 1.003)
|
|
| |
I used to use a diluted solution, but I've moved to 100% bleach without apparent
damage to the bricks. Even pure bleach doesn't work on some of the badly sun
damaged pieces, though.
Cary Clark wrote:
> How long did you soak them for? I let my yellowed parts soak for several
> weeks. You may also want to try increasing the bleach/water ratio. I use a
> dilute solution for a long time; this has whitened parts for me that were 20
> or more years old, and doesn't appear to have damaged them in any way.
>
> Cary
>
> "Skip" <srobinson@fairpoint.com> wrote in message
> news:G8t02E.Jzo@lugnet.com...
> > I recently bought some older classic space sets and I knew in advance that
> > they had yellowed. I tried soaking them in a bleach and water solution but
> > it did not help. Does anyone have ideas about stopping the yellowing and
> > also a fix for it? Thanks in advance.
> > Skip
--
Tom Stangl
***http://www.vfaq.com/
***DSM Visual FAQ home
***http://ba.dsm.org/
***SF Bay Area DSMs
|
|
|
|
bleach
(score: 1.002)
|
|
| |
In lugnet.general, Richard Schuit writes:
> To Richard Marchetti
> Does Brasso really help to clean the Lego pieces? I know I've got some
> reeeaallyy old technic stuff thats gone a funny off colour, particularly the
> yellow and white pieces......or am I just being naive by asking?
I use a 1/8 part bleach to 7/8 parts water to soak lighter colored parts for a
REALLY long time -- like a week or two. White and grey elements lose stains
and yellowing and come out pretty nice. Experiment with other colors at your
own risk and post your results where it seems appropriate to do so. Yellow
would probably work out okay, but I have not tried it yet. The only ones I
ever detect stains on are the white and grey elements.
For general cleaning I use a mild mix of detergent to water as an initial soak
and then use a soft non-abrasive sponge and soft toothbrush for detail spots,
if need be. My detergent of choice is Simple Green, and I like the smell. One
caveat, metalic colored elements appear to actually be clear plastic that have
been annodized (sp?) or painted in some way, the point being the gold and
silver WILL come off in a water soak! Don't do it.
Brasso is used by non-purists to remove the printing from printed elements --
in the case mentioned yesterday by me, a ninja horse barding reveals an all
black barding. I have hardly ever seen one of these ninja bardings well
printed, so I am sacrificing this one to my sense of fun. I DO however have
one other ninja barding that looks sharp! I try to modify parts with great
care and consideration, trying to be sure that what I am trying to achieve
hasn't already been made by either Lego or a clone brand.
As to washing and cleaning and such: I try to wait until the piece looks ready
for the garbage can, or is in some other way intolerable, before just going
throught with it. I don't want to lose much valued parts to the washing
process...
-- Richard
|
|
|
|
bleach
(score: 1.002)
|
More: Next Page >>
|
