Subject:
|
Re: ZNAP survey
|
Newsgroups:
|
lugnet.znap
|
Date:
|
Wed, 6 Dec 2000 21:37:36 GMT
|
Viewed:
|
3419 times
|
| |
|
|
In lugnet.znap, Larry Pieniazek writes:
> In lugnet.znap, Wayne R. Hussey writes:
>
> > > Do you think that some ingenious constructor will eventually show
> > > us better ways to integrate ZNAP with the current Lego elements?
> >
> > I've been using them for two years now, and am constantly finding new ways
> > to integrate them.
>
> Would you be willing to share some of your techniques? I for one have a
> large amount of ZNAP and plan to use it, but haven't gotten around to doing
> the detailed investigations to determine all the possible interconnect
> mechanisms.
>
> Basically, so far, other than variants of "plug this pin into this hole in
> this ZNAP element" I haven't found many mechanisms. (any?)
>
> But that is not to say that there aren't others..
>
> ++Lar
I'm not sure I can be of much help, but here's my two studs' worth. Caution:
long post ahead.
Most of my integration is based on 'hanging' other assemblies on with
Technic clips and axles. The problems I usually encounter stem from the
scale issue. Znap pieces are (generally) LARGE. Several of them put together
cover inches of area. For many models, this doesn't work well.
The best way I've found to use them is to treat them as only the framework.
I'm currently working on two projects. One is a new robotic platform
(anthropomorphic) and the other is a large modular space freighter. To
enable brickwork to fit flush requires gaps on the face that abuts the Znap
(for the purple/grey clips that stick out). I've found that 1x4 arch bricks
work well on the even brick levels and invert/slope bricks or gaps work on
the odd brick levels. Either way, the minimum wall that completely covers a
Znap frame is 2 studs wide.
My most successful itegration to date is with my Bascule train bridge.
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=11411
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=11718
(pictures thanks to David Schilling)
This used two single 'sheets' of Znap to reinforce the Technic. The Znap
took the place of 2-3 widths of Technic (had I tried to get the same
structural integrity). One must look closely to even see the Znap.
Amazingly, I have received numerous comments about how much people like the
purple details on my bridge. ;-)
My enoumous bridge,
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=11162
(picture thanks to David Schilling)
constructed for G2K (PNLTC) and which recently showed (and broke) at GATS in
Washington, was almost entirely Znap. The feet of the towers (grey) were
mostly for looks. There was less than a plate thickness separating the floor
from the Znap clip pins. The brickwork was all joined to the frame using the
2x2 brick w/clip on two rows, 4 brick layers apart, on the long sides only.
The surprise on this was the need to use an odd number of studs on the ends
of the feet because the Znap rectangle seems to hit on a 1/2 brick center
(each face) when building in two directions. I'm not sure that translated
well, but the bottom line is: I was able to build a wall around the Znap
frame, completely covering the frame that both joined to itself and the frame.
This may ruin my standing on LUGNET (whatever that means), but I have quite
a bit of experience building with K'NEX. In fact, most of my collection of
K'NEX came directly from the company in payment for two professional jobs I
did for them. I say this because Znap has many similarities to K'NEX.
For those readers who have not built with both toys, please do not construe
the above statement with the statement "Znap is like K'NEX" - it ain't! (It
is VERY close to the same as Construx - see early postings in this category).
The major similarity is the ability to build in all directions without
reference to stud direction. With all other LEGO (with the possible
exception of Technic) pieces, the stud direction matters. With Znap, it
doesn't (Znap isn't joined by studs). The problems caused when trying to
interface with Znap are based on that premise. Bricks don't necessarily line
up. So, special care is required. All the techniques anyone uses to join
other brickwork where the studs are faced to different planes, are
applicable here. Keep the 3/8-5/16 ratios in mind and experiment.
I have to return to the statement about the size of the Znap pieces. Unless
you are building something that is measured in inches/feet, Znap is not the
best place to start. To try to use a Znap piece well in a small model is a
challenge. Contrarily, if you are building something which has its size
measured in feet, Znap may be the way to get there quickly.
At some time, hopefully soon, I will pull together pictures of my projects
and display them.
Wayne
|
|
Message is in Reply To:
 | | Re: ZNAP survey
|
| (...) Would you be willing to share some of your techniques? I for one have a large amount of ZNAP and plan to use it, but haven't gotten around to doing the detailed investigations to determine all the possible interconnect mechanisms. Basically, (...) (24 years ago, 5-Dec-00, to lugnet.znap)
|
4 Messages in This Thread:
 
- Entire Thread on One Page:
- Nested:
All | Brief | Compact | Dots
Linear:
All | Brief | Compact
|
|
|
|
