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Subject: 
Re-reply: 9v motor dying
Newsgroups: 
lugnet.trains
Date: 
Thu, 30 Nov 2000 05:17:03 GMT
Viewed: 
1311 times
  
Thanks everyone for the info.  I ran it again today.  Slowed down and
stopped.  I smelled it and there was an odor of over-heating (burning sounds
too dramatic), that my other motors do not have.  I waited 5 minutes, tried
it again.  This time, it ran for 1/2 hour before I stopped it.

My guess is there was (is) a friction problem, and maybe through my
continuous playing, it loosened it up, because now it seems to work.

It might still be a problem in the future though, since this motor is my
slowest train motor out of the 5 that I have, which indicates a friction
problem inside.

I'll keep playing...
Lars


No help from me, sorry.

I have a 9volt train motor that does exactly the same thing!

I have the same questions as do you.
Hmm.....Anyone else with the same problem?

First, if the motor is relatively new, you probably can get CA to replace it.

But it may be more fun to try to fix!

I'm guessing here. Some people seem to have a problem with people guessing,
so take it for what it's worth.  Don't try any of this unless you're willing
to lose the motor completely and not be able to get a replacement (CA won't
replace motors that have been opened, I don't think).

But I thought there was a temperature sensor in these motors. (ref some of
the DCC descriptions on some website I can't remember that mentions the need
to take it out to achieve the power/motor separation necessary for DCC)

Try running the motor (after sitting for a long time so it's at room temp)
with no load instead of under your loco. Does it run longer?

Try putting it in the freezer for a few hours. Does it run longer?

If the answer to either of these is yes, it may be that the temp sensor is
cutting out. If so, the motor is overheating for some reason.

If it's overheating, you can repair the motor by addressing the reason for
overheating. Overheating not caused by brute overloading is usually caused
by a buildup of internal friction.... bearings, gear train, axle exit/entry
points, etc. Check the axle entry points. Do you see any signs of hair or
carpet fuzz, dust, debris that may have worked in? Take the motor and put it
up to your ear. Turn the wheels. Do they bind? Compare to another motor.
Same turning resistance? How much lash is there? Half a revolution of lash
between one drive wheel and the other axle's wheel seems to be about normal
for 9V motors. Do you hear signs of binding or gnashing of gears inside the
housing?

In every case, your next step will probably involve opening the motor. If
you don't care, go for it. If you do care, see step one (get CA to send you
a new one)...

There are instructions on how to open motors on the web, somewhere. Find
them. When you have the motor open, examine the heat sensor. Does it show
signs of damage? It is possible to completely remove it. But if you do, what
will give out will be the motor windings melting (or the insulation
scorching and causing a short) instead of the sensor tripping. So removing
it may not be good.

With the motor open, examine the gear train and axle bearings, gears etc.
Remove any contaminants. Consider lubrication, I suggest graphite. Did the
motion improve, smoothen out, or stay the same? Once you lube, you're
committed to a periodic relube, unfortunately. Mark the motor with tape on
the bottom so you remember which one you have to lube.

Examine the motor windings. Any sign of shorted windings? Any sign of
bearing failure? These will be impossible to correct. Put the motor in your
junk box, it's lost except as a source of spares.

Good luck and tell us what you learn to improve this post...

++Lar



Message is in Reply To:
  Re: 9v motor dying
 
(...) First, if the motor is relatively new, you probably can get CA to replace it. But it may be more fun to try to fix! I'm guessing here. Some people seem to have a problem with people guessing, so take it for what it's worth. Don't try any of (...) (24 years ago, 29-Nov-00, to lugnet.trains)

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