 | | Re: Lego train basics —Larry Pieniazek
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| | | Some minor disagreements with J2: (...) drive) (...) entirely a (...) Yes, it does matter. If you only have one motor, put it under the heavier end of the locomotive. Weight helps adhesion. It may be that the ends are close, but if you have a low (...) (24 years ago, 27-Jul-00, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | Re: Lego train basics —John Neal
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| | | | | (...) Whoa, Nellie! Never advocated *that*;-) This hedonistic approach will result in misery beyond measure IMHO. FUT .debate John (24 years ago, 27-Jul-00, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | | Re: Lego train basics —Larry Pieniazek
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| | | | | | (...) I'm talking about trains, silly boy, not what you were thinking of. After all, although 8 wide is "morally wrong"(1), it feels good to you and you do it. What's neat about trains is that there are prototypes for a lot of really weird things, (...) (24 years ago, 27-Jul-00, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | Re: Lego train basics —Frank Filz
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| | | | (...) Interesting that it takes that long to reset. When I was a kid, I had a train powerpack which used some kind of overload cutoff which reset fairly quickly. I think it was basically a bi-metal strip (which bends when the temperature gets too (...) (24 years ago, 27-Jul-00, to lugnet.trains)
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