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 | | Re: Still more
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| (...) I noticed this as well, I'm guessing the old moters were used for testing and early photos, but the final product will have plastic wheels. I'm really hoping that the IR reciever is not permanently coupled the the motor unit. Use a standard 9v (...) (19 years ago, 6-Jan-06, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.year.2006, FTX)
| | | | | Re: Creating a GBC for a train layout
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| --SNIPPED-- (...) I can't answer the question but it might be useful if you could do up a CAD diagram of the sensor and train mechanisms for easy reference. I'm afraid I can't really understand what you mean here. It would also give a way of (...) (19 years ago, 5-Jan-06, to lugnet.org.us.laflrc, lugnet.trains)
| | | | | Re: Best way to get into LEGO Trains?
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| (...) Hi John, I would definitely suggest starting off with 9V. One thing to note is that Lego trains are expensive. There isn't really any way of getting around that yet (see later comment). I would suggest starting off by buying the High Speed (...) (19 years ago, 5-Jan-06, to lugnet.trains)
| | | | | Re: Creating a GBC for a train layout
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| [crossposting to .trains to get some feedback, so limit LafLRC discussion to on-topic on this thread] (...) I don't know, but it's a question that we might like answered before we go too much further with this. Understand we can always limit things (...) (19 years ago, 5-Jan-06, to lugnet.org.us.laflrc, lugnet.trains)
| | | | | Re: Still more
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| (...) Ah, well spotted. So maybe you can't run them on metal track at the same time as a 9V train. That may mean the base has a standard 9V lead on it though, so it would let you use it to run a 9V motorised crane or, my favourite, the miniature (...) (19 years ago, 5-Jan-06, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.year.2006)
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