| |
"Jason J. Railton" <j.j.railton@cwcom.net> wrote in message
news:GJHunK.GoJ@lugnet.com...
> In lugnet.loc.uk, Simon Bennett writes:
> > In lugnet.loc.uk, Jason J. Railton writes:
> > >
> > > These are the original Technic motors, from the first motor sets in • 1979.
> > > See <set:870>. Look closely at the wires, and you'll see they don't • have
> > > the centre plastic pin you're used to. Personally, I had <set:880>, the
> > > black 12V motor, which I burned out with some dodgy gearing.
> > >
> > > I don't know if they're all that rare, though to have one still working
> > > today might be. It's just the later one with the extra hole was the one
> > > taken up by schools, and was produced in much larger quantities for • longer.
> > >
> > > Jason J Railton
> >
> > Thanks Jason
> >
> > Unfortunately it didn't come with a lead. I have a couple of leads with • a
> > middle plastic pin but no motors to go with them and I have an old black
> > motor but with no lead so I'm a bit stuffed for testing it. I guess it's
> > 4.5v even though it says 4v on it though. If anyone has an old two pin
> > electric lead could they bring it to TVLF (especially if they're willing • to
> > sell it to me!)
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Psi
>
> Just get a few pieces of wire, strip the ends, twist the cores and fold • them
> back on themselves, then push them in the top holes of the motor (don't • use
> the end holes, as the wire might go in too far). Push the other ends into
> the battery box. That'll be good enough for testing.
>
> Or, if you've plenty of cables, just cut the plastic peg off. I know a • lot
> of people will gasp at that (calm down Huw :-), but it's up to you. But, • I
> would suggest you simply use some old bare wire first if you just want to
> know if it works or not. If you're planning on using a motor that old in • a
> model, it probably won't last long. I'm sure someone can find a newer • 4.5V
> motor for you if you really need one.
>
> I've only got a few of the old style plugs, which I wired up to my own • 3xAA
> battery boxes to run some old trains and my first walking AT-AT. I don't
> have any cables intact. Most of them fell apart with constant pulling, • and
> the metal strips and switches in my battery boxes corroded and fell apart
> long ago. My Dad adapted the lead from the black 12V motor to run off my
> Hornby train transformer.
It may not be necessary to modify any existing LEGO pieces if he just wants
to test it. All he needs are some multimeter cables which have screw-in
alligator clips (usually they have a flexible plastic cover) and probe
pieces. That way, it's simply a matter of clipping the alligator clips to a
suitable power supply and letting the probes make contact with the motor
terminals - it does require a small amount of steadiness of hands though to
keep the probes touching the electrical contacts but should work for testing
the motor.
--
Cheers ...
Geoffrey Hyde
|
|
Message is in Reply To:
 | | Re: FOTW (ish)
|
| (...) Just get a few pieces of wire, strip the ends, twist the cores and fold them back on themselves, then push them in the top holes of the motor (don't use the end holes, as the wire might go in too far). Push the other ends into the battery box. (...) (23 years ago, 11-Sep-01, to lugnet.loc.uk, lugnet.technic)
|
6 Messages in This Thread:
  
- Entire Thread on One Page:
- Nested:
All | Brief | Compact | Dots
Linear:
All | Brief | Compact
|
|
|
|
