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10030
System / Star Wars / Ultimate Collector Series
Imperial Star Destroyer [official Lego name, abbreviated henceforth to ISD]
Natasha Stott Despoja [unofficial lugnet.loc.au name]
Ages 16+, 3104 pieces, (C) 2002 [so says the box]
Manual: 228 A3 pages, I module divided into major sub-assemblies
Price Range: AUD 499.95 from Lego Shop@Home
RATINGS (Scale: Must-Have Excellent Very-Good Good Fair Poor)
Set: Very-Good / Models: Very-Good / Playability: Poor
DECALS? A large sticker (covering multiple bricks) is used for the display
board. I did not apply it, but it is quite attractive.
SPECIAL FEATURES/COMPATIBILITY
This set makes unusual use of magnets for connecting major sections together,
probably due to the complex angles involved. This feature is both its greatest
strength (in terms of appearance of the model) and its greatest weakness (in
terms of the robustness of the structure).
SET DESCRIPTION
The model is a very large military-looking space ship, based on the one seen in
the opening sequence of the first Star Wars movie (Episode 4: A New Hope). The
main hull is shaped like an arrow head with a superstructure reminiscent of a
present-day warship. The model has surfaces at many different angles. Indeed,
the superstructure folds to mold itself to the shape of the arrow shape of the
hull. Certain areas of the ship bristle with exterior detailing (greebling),
some are intended as weapons but mostly the functionality is left to your
imagination.
The ISD is almost entirely light grey in colour with only very minor use of
dark grey and black for exterior detailing (greebling) and the use of
trans-light-blue for its "engine emissions". The space ship comes mounted on a
display stand which is integral to the model; you cannot remove the model from
the stand, unlike some of the other Ultimate Collector Series sets. The stand
is black with some dark grey detailing. In the internals of the set (invisible
in the finished model), the main colours are again black, dark grey, and light
grey with some red and blue (presumably to make identification of parts easier
in both the model and the instructions).
This is a very large model (perhaps Lego's largest to date). According to my
tape measure, the ISD is 100cm long, 62cm wide and 43cm high. Due to its
non-rectangular shape, it is difficult to describe it accurately using studs as
a unit of measurement. However, the hull sections (which comprise most of the
length of the model) are 117 studs long.
The set also comes with very small Rebel Blockade Runner (which it pursues in
the movie), which is presumably built to scale with the ISD. It is
predominantly white with white grey and dark red accents, and trans-orange
engine emissions. It is a SNOT (Studs Not On Top) model, so is again difficult
to measure in studs, but is about 15-16 studs long.
There are no minifigs in the set, due to its scale. Humans would be smaller
than a 1x1 plate at this scale.
SPECIAL ELEMENTS
This set will appeal to the purists. It is built from standard Lego parts [1].
There are no juniorised/specialised elements, such as the large quarter-hull
sections used in the Millennium Falcon. If there are any new shaped parts in
this set, it might be the large one-sided wheel/tyre pieces used for engine
mountings. These wheels are seen in smaller sizes in many space sets, but I am
not sure if they have previously been used in this large size. Also, I suspect
that the various round pieces used for the engine emissions may not have
previously been available in trans-light-blue.
[1] "Standard" and "juniorised/specialised" are clearly subjective issues. What
I am implying is that the parts have been used before in many other sets in
many other themes and could be re-used by many people building MOCs in many
themes. I would strongly recommend you look at the set inventory at
www.peeron.com/inv and form your own opinion.
IMPRESSION
This model looks fantastic, especially from a distance. Its size and its shape
really distinguish it from other Lego models. Lego is inherently rectangular,
but at this size, it has been possible to create a most unusual diamond-arrow
shape. When you get close up however, the rectangular nature of Lego becomes
apparent, and gaps can be seen where the angled sections come together. It is
even possible to glimpse some of the red/blue pieces in the internal structure
through these gaps (which are presumably not intended to be seen). Similarly
the greebling bristles with the menace of a mighty warship at a distance, but
up close it is just a random collection of taps and minifig binoculars.
When I first saw this set on the WWW, I remember saying "Wow, it rocks!". When
people see it on my dining room table (you can't display this set on a regular
shelf -- it's way too big), they are very impressed. It looks fantastic.
However, this set doesn't rock. Don't even think about trying to rock it. Don't
try picking it up. Don't push it a couple of inches across the table using its
stand. Don't let your cat put a paw on it. All of these have broken my model.
Any movement of the model generally results in its collapse, usually one or
more of the 4 hull sections falls off. And the feet of the display stand even
seem to be able to pop off under its own weight. This is the flimsiest model
ever. Any attempt to whoosh it will end in disaster. Once you start to put the
major sections together, I strongly recommend you build the model in the
position you will display it.
The set has a lot of parts, which are not packaged according to the
sub-assemblies, unlike some other large Lego sets, e.g. the Super Street
Sensation. I found it easiest to build by spreading everything out on the
floor. It took me days to build this set so if you have any non-Lego interests
in your life (sleep, work, family), don't expect a rapid result! It also
required a lot of cursing and swearing as sections of the model regularly came
apart as I was adding new sections due to the flimsy-ness. At one point, I gave
up for a day, being unable to attach a hull section without it collapsing the
rest of the model. I spent hours pouring over the instructions, double-checking
I had everything in the right spot, until I eventually found the small mistake
that prevented the hull section from attaching correctly. This is definitely
not a set for the younger builder! It requires careful attention at all times.
Having finally finished the set, I attempted to move it to a table. It
collapsed into a number of large chunks. I moved the chunks to the table and
rebuilt it. I then created some space on my display table and tried to move it
again, and it collapsed.
I then decided to strengthen the model, by adding extra plates on the
undersides of the hull sections (to stop them breaking into 2 or 3 pieces
constantly). I also added (and I strongly recommend this) a 1x16 black technics
beam to each side of the 2 pairs of feet on the stand (i.e. 4 beams in all),
attached with technics pins. This connects each foot to its opposing foot and
prevents the weight of the model from popping off the feet. I then attempted to
move the model again to the display table. It collapsed again, but not as badly
as before (i.e. the hull sections fell off but they didn't break into pieces).
So, I constructed the major sub-assemblies on my Lego table but did the final
assembly on the display table. Finally, success! Then I moved some other MOCs
back onto the display table (taken away to give me elbow room for the ISD
assembly) and discovered that I needed to move the ISD two inches to one side.
Carefully I reached under and put my hand onto the base of the stand and very
gently pushed it those two inches, and one of the underside hull sections gave
way at the rear. I gave up at this point, as I decided that the droop in the
back of the underside hull would not be noticed by the casual observer.
Why is this model so flimsy? Well, put simply, it consists of a large
triangular shaped infrastructure and stand, which is sturdy enough (apart from
the need to reinforce the feet as described above). However, all of the
exterior of the model is at strange angles. The 4 hull sections (2 upper, 2
undersides) are very large (110 studs) collections of plates without sufficient
reinforcing. However, even with that reinforcing, they are simply not well
attached to the infrastructure due to the angles involved. Each hull section is
held on with 3-4 magnets at the centre and 3 2x2 plate connections at the edge.
Yep, that's 12 studs and some magnets to hold on a section over 100 studs long.
The 2x2 plates are those modified plates which take an axle, which enable them
to swing into the right angle for the hull section. Unfortunately gravity tends
to let them swing stud-side down, so it is easier to attach the lower hull
sections (as you need the plates stud-side down) but more difficult to attach
the upper hull sections as you need to be holding the hull section to align the
magnets and swinging the 3 plates upright and pressing them onto the hull
section all at the same time (a job for an octopus). Oh, and while you are
doing it, you have to make sure that you don't knock off any of the greebling
with your fingers. I was forever chasing taps across the floor and reattaching
them.
Having attached the hull sections, you then take the superstructure (which is
built in a number of subsections). Each subsection of the superstructure is
built using axles or pins to enable the section to bend in two or three places.
This means that each subsection of the superstructure droops once you remove it
from the table until you place it onto the model, whereupon it miraculously
folds into the shape of the model below thanks to gravity. It's a very
impressive building technique, but again, you have the problem of having to
hold the subsection by its greebled edges while you add it onto the main model,
usually dislodging a few pieces of greebling along the way.
Note. I have a permanently broken right elbow, so have some limitations in
terms of my strength and fine motor control in that arm. It may be that some of
my problems in assembling the final model were due to my disability and that
others might not experience these problems to the same extent. I also suspect
that there is a trade-off between the need to reinforce the hull sections for
structural integrity of the hull versus the need to reduce the weight of the
model due to the magnetic couplings and feet-popping problems.
Playability Rating
Whatever my personal disability, there is no question that this model cannot be
played with. It is simply not sufficiently well-connected to survive handling,
especially not by a child. Hence I rate its playability as Low. This model is
strictly to look at, don't touch.
Model Rating
I rate the model as Very Good. For looks alone, it is probably a Must-Have and
there are lots of interesting construction techniques employed in this set that
make it an interesting experience to build. I definitely learned some new ideas
about construction both from the instructions and thinking about ways to
strengthen it. However, the structural integrity needs improvement, both in
terms of the individual sub-assemblies (most notably the hull sections) and the
method by which the hull sections are connected. The use of magnets is novel
and is an important factor in achieving the arrow-head shape, but perhaps some
ball-and-socket joints or Technics universal joints be used to replace or
reinforce these magnets for greater structural integrity? So I feel I must
reduce the overall rating of the model due to its flimsiness.
Set Rating
This is the Ultimate Grey Plates Pack, eclipsing the previous favourite, the
Sith Infiltrator. At about 16c (AUD) per piece, it is a great source of light
grey parts. But be warned, there are not a lot of regular bricks in light grey
(given the overall number of parts in the model). This set has many light-grey
plates both large and small, especially non-rectangular plates and plates with
tiled sections, and has many light grey greebling parts (taps, 1x2 grilles, 1x1
tool clips, 1x1 cones, goblets, binoculars etc). If this set contains a part
you want, then it probably has it in large quantities, but the range of parts
used may not be varied as you might think from the overall number of pieces.
Given that light grey is always a popular colour for space, castle and other
large-scale architectural themes, it seems likely that this set will be parted
out extensively via bricklink etc. However, the high price of this set will
mean that parting out will be restricted to those whose budgets can afford the
initial outlay, so it may be only a few of the large volume sellers that get
involved, and hence competition may not be as intense (and hence the prices may
not be driven as low as you might expect/hope given the high availability of
these parts). Hence my set rating was Very Good, but I would have liked to see
a greater range of parts (especially bricks) rather than such large quantities
of a smaller number of parts.
Scale
The ship is supposed to be 1 mile long, so any humanoid figures would have be
smaller than ants. There are no Lego figs that can be used with this set.
Errors
I don't recall any missing parts. There were no errors in the building
instructions, but in some steps the quantity of certain heavily-used small
parts was not stated. As it is easy to visually overlook a small part being
added to a sub-assembly that already has hundreds of parts, knowing how many
should have been used in total in each step is a useful cross-check.
Also the size of some of the sub-assemblies made it easy to misalign parts,
sometimes necessitating careful counting of the number of studs in the
instructions and on the model itself. The 4 hull sections are very similar but
not identical, so it is important to look carefully at the instructions and not
to assume that it is just the same as the previous section. I certainly made a
number of errors in building the model. In particular, there are some 1x2 dark
grey plates on the underside of the hull sections which are used to connect the
hull section to the infrastructure. Make sure these plates are in the right
position. When you only have 12 stud connections to hold on the hull section,
you cannot afford to lose any of them due to misalignment of these 1x2 plates.
Also, if you have a collapse of your model, expect these 1x2 plates to either
fall off or remain connected to the infrastructure rather than to the hull, and
use the instructions to make sure you put them back in the right place on the
hull. My feeling is that using large plates here may increase adhesion to the
hull in preference to the superstructure. The larger plates will also help
reinforce the hull sections themselves.
Extra Elements
As always, there were some leftover small elements. Curiously there was a white
cupboard door, a part not used in the set. Did it accidentally fall into the
box of parts at my house or did it come in the set?
CONCLUSION
Personally I felt some disappointment with this set. It is expensive and I was
expecting a totally awesome set about which I could write a rave review.
However, the fragility of the model and the consequence frustrations of
building it and displaying it do detract from the model. And the range of parts
isn't quite what I need for my MOCs (too many irregular-shaped plates, not
enough bricks). So, at the end of the day, I don't feel entirely happy about
the price I paid for what I got. If you have the cash spare, then it's probably
a Must-Have for your collection. However, for everyone else, you might want to
hope that it gets discounted because I don't think it's worth full RRP. You
will get better value with other sets (unless you want lots of light grey
plates). If considering this set as a gift, be warned that it is frustrating to
build and I would not recommend it for a child or anyone who isn't a seriously
enthusiastic Lego builder.
Aside. This set is rated on LUGnet at about 100, yet many of the notes mention
how the set looks and how much it is desired, suggesting to me that it may have
been rated by many people who have not actually built it. I would be interested
in knowing the ratings of those who had actually built it. Personally I'd put
it about 85.
REVIEWER INFORMATION
Review Written: 28 Dec 2002
By: Kerry Raymond, Age: 42
Favourite Themes: I buy Technics, Star Wars, Castle, Model Team, Sculptures.
For MOCs, I build large Town buildings.
--
============
Kerry Raymond
kerry@dstc.edu.au
Proud to be LUGNET Member 599
www.lugnet.com/people/members/?m=599
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Message has 5 Replies:
 | | Re: Review of 10030 Imperial Star Destroyer
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| (...) I'm not sure if it was only me, but I noticed some discrepancies with the deflector shield domes ("golf balls"). Most steps show one dome flush against the edge of the plate it sits on, and the other dome 1 stud away from the edge. Can someone (...) (22 years ago, 29-Dec-02, to lugnet.reviews, lugnet.starwars)
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