Subject:
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Re: direct manipulation of bits in RCX registers using NQC
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.robotics.rcx.nqc
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Date:
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Fri, 16 Sep 2005 00:07:39 GMT
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Viewed:
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12545 times
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Hey,
Thanks for all the helpful responses, everyone.
Brian:
In lugnet.robotics.rcx.nqc, Brian Davis wrote:
> From a brief reading of that manual, it talks about programming the H8 chip
> inside the RCX *directly*, not running programs layered on top of the standard
> firmware.
I guess that "firmware" must be the code that tells RCX how to interpret user
instructions (NQC, C, IC, opcodes, or whatever), and convert them to binary
machine-specific code. Right?
If that's true, then I see how it makes a difference what firmaware is loaded.
The firmware version will dictate exactly what communication is and is not
available between the user and the RCX.
Thanks for the very helpful comments & links about optimizing proximity
detection, etc. I will try some of these out.
So far, just using the IR Comm port as a "sender", and two LEGO light sensor
bricks as receivers (at ~45 deg angles to straight ahead), my bot can sense and
avoid flat walls & wall corners ~1 foot away. I am already doing stuff like
averaging over several sequential sensor measurements.
In general, the problems that I want to solve are a) better discrimination of
what's an "obstacle" (e.g., now my bot avoids flat white walls 1-20 cm away, but
runs straight into 2 cm diameter chair legs), b) would be great to do some
actual distance estimation instead of just turning away from everything that
seems to be "in the way".
Steve and Danny:
> Unfortunately, this is pretty much your only option. There is no way to
> power the sensor, but switch the light off. That's all part of the sensor,
> and the sensor does not have that ability.
Thanks. after looking at http://www.plazaearth.com/usr/gasperi/light.htm I now
understand this.
> Now to acheive what you want, it might be a waste of power, but you
> could always blank off the light itself with a peice of black card or
> thin black packing plastic.
> If trying to stick to an all lego
> solution, maybe using a technic 2x1 beam in front of the sensor will
> blank off the lamp?
I tried both these things already too. Sliding a thin plastic card between the
LED and sensor didn't do much, but I might not have gotten it in far enough.
Probably should have taken it apart first.
I also tried the 2x1 beam, it blanked off the lamp, but the baseline sensor
reading didn't change much. Presumably both of these non-effects were for the
reason given by Gasperi:
"Notice that with the LED the Light reading never goes to 0. Not because the LED
shines on the phototransistor, but simply the way the LED biases the circuit. "
I'll keep plugging away, and let y'all know how I get on.
Thanks again for your help!
Matt
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