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Subject: 
Re: Burning hot motor driver chips.
Newsgroups: 
lugnet.robotics.handyboard
Date: 
Sun, 9 Nov 1997 16:33:55 GMT
Original-From: 
David Kott <dakott@kott.my*Spamless*.domain>
Viewed: 
1254 times
  
was a faulty assumption).  So I connect the steering motor to motor1 and

sounds reasonable.. which "car" BTW?  Some may be using that very same
platform and may have some timely advice for you.

the drive motor in motor3, so each motor has it's own driver chip.  Well
after a few cycles of the below code, the drive motor ceases to get enough
power to move the car (the motor begins to spin if I pick the car up).

sounds like overload/overheating cutoff to me.

Upon burning my finger, I discovered that the chip running the was
extremely hot.  So my question is: Is this motor simply drawing too much
current?  I thought the L293D (which is what I am using) had some sort of
built it cut off if things got intolorable for it.  I also understand that
the L293D can be piggy backed, but will that give me enough amperage to run
a typical RC car motor?  Am I going to have to use an alternate driver?

This is from the Handy Board FAQ :
<---snip--->

   It is possible to wire two of these chips in parallel (e.g., two
   L293D's or one L293D and one L293B) to gain increased current-carrying
   capability. This readily done by plopping one IC on top of the other
   and individually soldering each matching pin together.

   Another way to achieve greater power-handling capability on the Handy
   Board is to use the Texas Instruments TI SN754410 Quadruple Half H
   driver, which combines the protective diodes of the L293D chip with
   the greater current capacity of the L293B chip. The SN754410 is a
   plug-and-play replacement for the L293D.

<---snip--->

*visions of a great stack of '293Ds growing out of a HB*

So, indeed, it seems that, as you say, you *can* either parallel two (more?)
chips together OR go to an enhanced pin-for-pin replacement IC.

<two_cents>

You also might want to think about heat sinking those chips.  Either a DIP
style heatsink (I *have* seen them) to affix to the back/top.. or something more
elaborate.. as I *think* the center two pins on on each side of those packages
are meant to be affixed to a heatsink/metal/large-copper-traces/whathaveyou...
but don't quote me.. I may be thinking of some other package.  (Prototyping
is an adventure, no?)

</two_cents>
                                                                       -d



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