 | | Re: Assembling the HandyBoard —Fred G. Martin
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| | | (...) You need that resistor to stabilize the crystal frequency. Try Radio Shack if it is missing from the kit. It doesn't have to be 1/8 watt, 1/4 or 1/2 watt is fine, just make sure it is 2.2 megaohm. (...) So far so good. (...) There is probably (...) (28 years ago, 26-Dec-96, to lugnet.robotics.handyboard)
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| | | | | Re: Assembling the HandyBoard —Byrom
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| | | | (...) I was getting similar behavior with my board. It wasn't clear to me that pins 2 and 3 in the serial cable from the PC to the interface board should be switched. Credit goes to Mike Ross for helping me figure this out. Once I switched these two (...) (28 years ago, 27-Dec-96, to lugnet.robotics.handyboard)
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| | | | | | Re: Assembling the HandyBoard —Fred G. Martin
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| | | | (...) The whole issue of null (inverted) connections vs. straight-through is incredibly confusing, because you must take into account the gender of the connector (male pins or female pin sockets) in determining whether it is a null connection. Start (...) (28 years ago, 27-Dec-96, to lugnet.robotics.handyboard)
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