Subject:
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Re: Keyboard trouble!
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.people
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Date:
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Mon, 26 Aug 2002 19:53:21 GMT
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Viewed:
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1443 times
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On Sat, 24 Aug 2002 00:05:47 GMT, "Richard noeckel"
<shroud_of_kung_fu@hotmail.com> wrote:
> I was wondering if anybody could offer advice?
>
> You see, I've got this keyboard…
> It's relatively new and cost around $60.00
> (It's one of those Microsoft –natural keyboard
> elite- with super comfy ergonomic usability)
>
> But…problem is that I spilled
> half a glass of water unto it!!!!!!
There's actually nothing wrong with spilling a half a glass of water
on a keyboard, as long as you limit it to the top half of the glass.
:-)
>
> Can any thing be done?
>
> Cause it jus' takes sooo long to compose
> a letter with cut & paste.
> (the keys effected are 't' 'h' 'n' and '5')
> I 'm using ctrl + c & ctrl + v constantly!
>
> Please, any assistance would be most obliged.
>
> I can't really afford another new keyboard right now.
>
>
> --==Richard==--
Just be glad it wasn't something sticky like Coke, or orange juice...
Here's the procedure:
Before I begin, let me point out that I haven't actually worked on a
Microsoft keyboard yet. I'm proceeding under the assumption that they
won't be significantly different in their construction than most other
keyboards are.
First - and perhaps most important - start with a clean desk (and by
clean, I mean clear of clutter not scrubbed clean) and possible a
clean floor too, in case any screws and/or/ spring go a-wanderin'.
Second - have a small bowl or deep plate on hand to put the small
parts in. Keep a notepad handy. You will likely encounter different
screws of different lengths. From a manufacturing point of view any
product that needs to be screwed together will usually go to different
work stations for each type of screw inserted. It is possible for one
person at one workstation to put all the different screws in a unit,
but this increases the likely hood of manufacturing errors, It's
faster for the manufacturer to have worker A insert 6 of these screws,
worker B, insert 2 of those screws etc. For this reason it's cheaper
for the manufacturer to use as few workers as possible (i.e. keep the
number of different screws to a minimum) but you'll still likely
encounter more than one type. I would be surprised, however if you
encountered more than four varieties.
Third - now this may seem stupid, but think about it - make a note of
how the keys are laid out. I know this may seem obvious if you are a
touch typist, but it's surprising how easy it is to forget where some
of the less-common keys are (like the tilde ~ or whatever this is ->|)
Blindfolded, could you tell which order the Scroll Lock, Print Screen
and Pause keys arranged in? Another thing to note, although it applies
more to the re-assembly phase, is the position of the arrow keys. On
some keyboards left is distinctly different from right and up from
down, but not always. It's easy to put the up arrow in the down arrow
position and vice versa (ditto with left and right) and have it
visually look OK, but the key surfaces are sculpted (i.e.. not
completely flat) and if you get a key backwards you'll certainly feel
it when you start using it. I did this once with the letter "I"
several years ago. When I discovered the error, I figured it was more
trouble than it was worth to take the keyboard apart again and turn
the key around. Trust me, it doesn't take long to drive you nuts. It's
like the modern equivalent of Chinese water torture.
The above paragraph is especially true if the keyboard includes
special, nonstandard, function keys (AKA Internet buttons - but also
for other functions). My keyboard has these extra functions printed on
the case and the row of black buttons across the top are molded in a
continuous rubber strip so it wouldn't make any difference on this
keyboard, by I'm not familiar with the Microsoft product so I figured
I'd point this out. If your keyboard has extra functions printed on
the keycaps, it could take quite a lot of trial and error to figure
out where they all go without some notes.
Four - Flip the keyboard over and start taking screws out. By the way,
I shouldn't have to say this, but just in case - do all this with the
keyboard unplugged. Anyway, as you take the screws out, put them in
the bowl. Make a note of which size came from which hole. Frequently
the front of the keyboard (near your hands) have shorter screws than
the back, but not necessarily. Note that after you take the screws
out, there will likely be a manufacturer's label on the back. Run you
finger, with pressure, across the entire surface of the label looking
for soft spots (possible screw holes). You'll have to take those
screws out to get the case open. This. BTW is how manufacturers
typically tell if someone has voided their warranty. You have to break
the label to get inside.
Five - Once the screws are removed turn the keyboard upright again and
try prying the case apart. Frequently, to assist in manufacturing, the
keyboard halves snap together before they are screwed together. You
may have to carefully pry the two halves apart. Try not to snap the
tabs. Also try to avoid applying too much pressure as you try to
disengage the tabs. I did this once many years ago. While trying to
pull apart the keyboard I was applying too much force as I poked at
what turned out to be one of the last remaining tabs with a thin
screwdriver. When the tab released, keys and springs went flying
everywhere - hence the need for a clean work surface and floor.
Six - Once the keyboard cover is off, you should be able to remove the
keycaps. Beneath the keycaps the key switches themselves may or may
not be covered with a metal plate (RF shielding) held in place at the
four corners. If it's there, take it off, noting the screws that were
used. Beneath the metal plate will be the key switches themselves.
These days they are almost always rubber molded thingys (sorry for
getting technical) with carbon button centers (why am I suddenly
craving Tootsie-Pops (tm)?) that are the actual contact points. Some
higher end keyboards use metal spring switches, but I haven't seen
these in years. This is where the contaminated water* is sitting. Once
you've removed the key switches, soak up the remaining water on both
the circuit board and the underside of the key switches with Q-tips.
Seven - Use a spray-can of contact cleaner you can get at Radio Shack
to spray the circuit board and key switches. I probably should have
told you needed this before you took the whole thing apart :-)
Eight - After letting it dry - probably not more than a minute, start
reassembling it. The procedure is the opposite of disassembly keeping
in mind using the correct sized screw for the correct hole and the
positions and orientation of the key caps.
That should be it.
I was going to give the usual caveat about voiding your warranty by
doing the work yourself, but then again, if you've dumped something in
it, you've voided the warranty anyway.
Actually before you do all this, you *might* have some success with
just spraying the contact cleaner in-between the keys. I suppose it's
worth a try, although I've never had too much success with it. The RF
shield and the rubber of the key switches tend to keep the alcohol
spray from getting where you need it.
Matthias Jetleb
* For the record, water (in it's *pure* form) is actually an
insulator. It's actually the impurities in the water that cause it to
short out equipment. If you have to drink around a keyboard, only
drink *pure* water. Then again, have you ever tasted true H2O? I had
an opportunity once to taste water made from combining hydrogen and
oxygen. Absolutely pure, no contaminants whatsoever. It's just plain
weird.
P.S. If you don't want to try it, let me know by the next meeting and
I'll loan you another keyboard (old style (large - i.e.. Non-PS/2)
interface) and clean it for you.
P.P.S. Why is it that whenever I try to explain stuff like this to
people, my explanations turn out to be longer than the manufacturer's
service manual?
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Message is in Reply To:
 | | Keyboard trouble!
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| I was wondering if anybody could offer advice? You see, I’ve got this keyboard… It’s relatively new and cost around $60.00 (It’s one of those Microsoft –natural keyboard elite- with super comfy ergonomic usability) But…problem is that I spilled half (...) (22 years ago, 24-Aug-02, to lugnet.people, lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto, lugnet.general)
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