Subject:
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Re: Bricksmeat 2003 - or how not to transport large MOCs!
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.loc.au, lugnet.general
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Date:
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Wed, 11 Jun 2003 05:26:49 GMT
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Viewed:
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74 times
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In lugnet.loc.au, Frank Filz wrote:
> Kerry Raymond wrote:
> >
> > Herewith the results of my MOC transportation experiment from last weekend:
> >
> > Step 1. Obtain a large box (intended for transporting large TV) and bubble
> > wrap products from professional movers.
> > Step 2. Insert MOCs.
> > Step 3. Air-freight the box (externally pre-printed "TV", "This way up",
> > "Fragile")
> > Step 4. Open the box.
> > Step 5. Remove the MOCs.
> >
> > The results can be viewed at:
> >
> > http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/ABStralia/disasters/disaster1.jpg
> >
> > http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/ABStralia/disasters/disaster2.jpg
> >
> > I guess the good news is I would have been even more unhappy if I had been
> > transporting a TV!
>
> It's hard to tell for sure of course, but looking at those MOCs I'm not
> too surprised they took a lot of damage. I have successefully
> transported MOCs in my checked baggage but they have all really been
> very strong MOCs. My wharf section for the BrickFest modular castle town
> (unfortunately I don't have a real handy set of pictures - but here's
> one picture:
> http://www.pnltc.org/Gal_PDX_Conven_03/gallery.html?Coast-City2 [note
> for those who have seen this before, I re-arranged it for the train
> layout]) has travelled twice by air (to BrickFest and to BricksWest).
> Each building breaks down into separate modules for each floor (and
> roof). For the inn which is large, the floors above the "basement" level
> split into two pices (plus the stable and it's roof are separate
> pieces). I have only had minor damage. There are several basic problems
> that can affect a model:
>
> Torque: The larger a model, the more susceptible it is to twisting
> motion that will start to separate bricks. I suspect this is most of
> what happened to Thomas Avery's crane. My large pirate ships have
> suffered some of this damage (I have flown my Red Seas Barracuda to
> BricksWest and I did have to tighten up the hull, the masts had been
> taken down for transport [which would have resulted in shear damage]).
> This is best addressed by making large models modular. Also, the better
> they "float" in the packaging, the less torque will be applied.
>
> Shear: A large model without a lot of contact between layers can just
> shear off. This is what appears to have happened to Kerry's models. This
> is best addressed by having each large layer a separate piece. Internal
> padding may also help some, but the layers will probably still slide
> off, the internal padding may just minimize the destruction to the
> walls.
>
> Greeble loss: Things that stick out or aren't well attached will fall
> off. This damage is usually minor. This is the extent of damage most of
> my models have taken. On some models like my water tower, all the
> greebles are packed separately.
>
> Implosion: A box that is not very strong can implode (the results look
> very similar to shear but may not be the same, this is what happens when
> you press on the sides of the box, shear happens when you shove the
> cover of the box off [and it takes the walls or columns supporting it
> along for the ride]). My train cars (especially the cars from 7740 and
> my 7740 themed club cars) have suffered this failure in transport. It's
> pretty quick to rebuild usually.
>
> Frank
Hi Kerry,
I cannot agree enough with fellow PNLTCer Frank Filz. I was just referred to
this post by another NWer (SEALUGer) Mark Neumann, who encouraged me to reply...
I've shipped hundreds of MOCs across the US by all means possible -- mail,
crating, cars, planes, and with site handling by AFOL and non-educated
(non-discerning) hands. I've also been praised for my shipping techniques with
very rare and fragile artglass. My comments:
1. Sectionalize or the model will break.
2. Add additonal braces for U-shaped MOCs and appendages that cannot be
removed.
3. Add stacks of bricks to serve as crush bulkheads.
4. DO NOT USE BUBBLE WRAP OR FOAM PEANUTS!!! Instead use plastic
supermarket/grocery store bags which provide just the right amount of cushion.
Cleaners (garment) bags might also work but NOT heavy trash bags unless your MOC
is very sturdy.
5. My practice is MOCs inside clear bags using opaque bags as cushion -- so no
parts or MOCs get lost/forgotten in "no-see-em' bags.
6. Boxes must be sturdy and adequately sized to not stress MOCs.
**the above applies for basic storage and hand/vehicle carry**
**the following is shipping/third-party transit**
7. double-box with either bubble wrap, peanuts, or newsprint. Or, place the
above box(es) in a crate lined with bubble wrap or foam rubber pads.
8. Forget about any type of fragile tags as boxes will be dropped and crates
will be walked on or punctured by forklift blades.
The end rule is one's packing should protect the MOC from a 2-3 foot drop. This
has worked for me sending 3 loads to LEGOLAND California (including my unglued
10-foot, 16,000-pc Statue of Liberty for BW2003) as well as returning many
ambassador traincars and MOCs to the owner.
Play well --- but pack even better!
dan parker
Pacific NW LEGO Train Club
Seattle LEGO Users Group
TrainBuilder Productions, LLC
"custom LEGO events and displays"
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