Subject:
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Re: How to use Lego bricks...
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.general
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Date:
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Thu, 17 Oct 2002 17:07:53 GMT
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Viewed:
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535 times
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Kerry Raymond wrote in message ...
> So therefore I now try to NOT build long overlapping walls. Instead I built
> wall segments (which are overlapped internally) but are not connected • directly
> to adjacent wall segments. Instead I rely on the floor/roof to sandwich the
> wall segments together. If I know I have used the wrong parts (pending a
> bricklink order), then I do sometimes resort to just stacking bricks on top • of
> one another as I know I am going to have to modify this section when the • order
> arrives, and removing stacked bricks to get to the problem area is a cinch • in
> comparison to removing overlapped bricks. The aim is always to build • sections
> and then use overlapping to connect the sections, but not overlap at the • level
> of every brick.
>
> Of course, building by this technique is not as structurally rigid as the • fully
> overlapped technique, but it is still fairly rigid (e.g. can survive • transport
> as a built model), so I theorise that the fully overlapped approach is in • fact
> over-engineering in many circumstances.
Interesting - I hadn't really thought about it from this point of view but
you are right. I often tear back and rebuild my stuff multi times to get it
right and the overlapping causes a lot of extra tearback. I did build one
model in this modular way (the Schoolhouse,
http://www.lionsgatemodels.com/cat-schl.htm ) because it had colored stacks
of bricks at the corners, and it was quite convenient to be able to remove
the front or back walls, switch them over, or leave them off completely for
interior viewing at shows. The corner columns of 1x1 bricks weren't very
stable though :-)
> One area were overlapping is more important is building roofs or other • large
> sloping structures, as the downward forces are not evenly distributed over • the
> whole brick as they are in a wall. So I was initially unable to apply the
> modular approach to roofs etc. However, thanks to observing Dan Siskind's
> guarded church, I have learnt that the trick to building a large roof in
> sections is to reinforce each section with inverse slopes on the underside. • Of
> course this uses a large amount of inverse slopes, so the poor man's • solution
> is just to reinforce parts of each section, particularly the section ends.
A cheaper way to reinforce the underside is to use a row of plates along the
underneath of each row of roof slopes where they don't overlap the next row.
It doesn't look as good but it adds considerably to the strength.
Kevin
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
NEW Cottage kit, 577 pieces! http://www.lionsgatemodels.com/cat-cott.htm
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http://www.lionsgatemodels.com/COntent/Townplan/townplan.htm
BrickLink Lego parts store: http://www.bricklink.com/store.asp?p=Kevinw1
The Guild of Bricksmiths(TM): http://www.bricksmiths.com
Personal Lego Web page:
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/kwilson_tccs/lego.html
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Message has 1 Reply:
 | | Re: How to use Lego bricks...
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| (...) I'll have to give it a try. I tend to focus on external appearance not internal appearance, so the internal look doesn't matter so much to me. It must be said that the interior use of inverse slopes makes an amazingly strong roof. I often (...) (22 years ago, 18-Oct-02, to lugnet.general)
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Message is in Reply To:
| | Re: How to use Lego bricks...
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| (...) Well, having learnt this as a kid in the 60s, I now find myself as an adult having to un-learn it. Being thoroughly trained in the overlapping brick technique, I build large (1000+ piece) structures in the overlapping style out of habit. Then (...) (22 years ago, 17-Oct-02, to lugnet.general)
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