Subject:
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Re: maing 9v versions of the 12v accessories
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.trains
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Date:
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Mon, 5 Jun 2000 16:44:16 GMT
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Viewed:
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1715 times
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"Jonathan Wilson" <wilsonj@xoommail.com> wrote in message
news:393AF4F5.FBD46970@xoommail.com...
> > "Jonathan Wilson" <wilsonj@xoommail.com> wrote in message
> > news:393A66E6.161559C5@xoommail.com...
> > > How would one go about making 9v versions of the 12v accessories? In
> > > particular, light up level crossing lights, decoupling post, and
> > > especially the signal. The items have to be made witout using any 12v
> > > bits (like the controll boxes) but they have to do the same job.
> >
> > I did a 12V to 9V signal conversion, you can read about it here:
> > http://members.brabant.chello.nl/~f.buiting/lego/trains/signal.html
>
> Could you do it without needing the expensive 12v signal set (using
> polarity switches for example)?
I don't have any LEGO polarity switches, so I can't tell if it can be done.
Does the switch work like an 'on-off' switch (like in a center position or
something? or does it just reverse the polarity?)
Anyway the only thing that the signal control does is connect and disconnect
an isolated part of the track. See the description of the control box on my
page. So the only thing you have to do is make a switch that connects an
isolated stretch so you can power it whenever you desire. It passes through
the power from the neighboring piece of (continiously powered) track to make
sure the isolated stretch will have the same polarity as the surrounding
stretches.
Also see http://www.brickshelf.com/scans/7000/7777/7777-08.html
The blue lines that go into the control box are used to power the isolated
stretch, the other give the light the right signal.
--
Frank Buiting
Visit the LEGO Lexicon: http://members.chello.nl/~f.buiting/lego/
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