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How would one go about making 9v versions of the 12v accessories? In
particular, light up level crossing lights, decoupling post, and
especially the signal. The items have to be made witout using any 12v
bits (like the controll boxes) but they have to do the same job.
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"Jonathan Wilson" <wilsonj@xoommail.com> wrote in message
news:393A66E6.161559C5@xoommail.com...
> How would one go about making 9v versions of the 12v accessories? In
> particular, light up level crossing lights, decoupling post, and
> especially the signal. The items have to be made witout using any 12v
> bits (like the controll boxes) but they have to do the same job.
I did a 12V to 9V signal conversion, you can read about it here:
http://members.brabant.chello.nl/~f.buiting/lego/trains/signal.html
--
Frank Buiting
Visit the LEGO Lexicon: http://members.chello.nl/~f.buiting/lego/
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Frank Buiting wrote:
>
> "Jonathan Wilson" <wilsonj@xoommail.com> wrote in message
> news:393A66E6.161559C5@xoommail.com...
> > How would one go about making 9v versions of the 12v accessories? In
> > particular, light up level crossing lights, decoupling post, and
> > especially the signal. The items have to be made witout using any 12v
> > bits (like the controll boxes) but they have to do the same job.
>
> I did a 12V to 9V signal conversion, you can read about it here:
> http://members.brabant.chello.nl/~f.buiting/lego/trains/signal.html
>
> --
> Frank Buiting
>
> Visit the LEGO Lexicon: http://members.chello.nl/~f.buiting/lego/
Could you do it without needing the expensive 12v signal set (using
polarity switches for example)?
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In lugnet.trains, Jonathan Wilson writes:
>
>
> Frank Buiting wrote:
> >
> > "Jonathan Wilson" <wilsonj@xoommail.com> wrote in message
> > news:393A66E6.161559C5@xoommail.com...
> > > How would one go about making 9v versions of the 12v accessories? In
> > > particular, light up level crossing lights, decoupling post, and
> > > especially the signal. The items have to be made witout using any 12v
> > > bits (like the controll boxes) but they have to do the same job.
> Could you do it without needing the expensive 12v signal set (using
> polarity switches for example)?
Sure...go to Radio Shack and get the bits and pieces. I believe 'Zonker'
Harris has stuff like that on his web page.
James
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"Jonathan Wilson" <wilsonj@xoommail.com> wrote in message
news:393AF4F5.FBD46970@xoommail.com...
> > "Jonathan Wilson" <wilsonj@xoommail.com> wrote in message
> > news:393A66E6.161559C5@xoommail.com...
> > > How would one go about making 9v versions of the 12v accessories? In
> > > particular, light up level crossing lights, decoupling post, and
> > > especially the signal. The items have to be made witout using any 12v
> > > bits (like the controll boxes) but they have to do the same job.
> >
> > I did a 12V to 9V signal conversion, you can read about it here:
> > http://members.brabant.chello.nl/~f.buiting/lego/trains/signal.html
>
> Could you do it without needing the expensive 12v signal set (using
> polarity switches for example)?
I don't have any LEGO polarity switches, so I can't tell if it can be done.
Does the switch work like an 'on-off' switch (like in a center position or
something? or does it just reverse the polarity?)
Anyway the only thing that the signal control does is connect and disconnect
an isolated part of the track. See the description of the control box on my
page. So the only thing you have to do is make a switch that connects an
isolated stretch so you can power it whenever you desire. It passes through
the power from the neighboring piece of (continiously powered) track to make
sure the isolated stretch will have the same polarity as the surrounding
stretches.
Also see http://www.brickshelf.com/scans/7000/7777/7777-08.html
The blue lines that go into the control box are used to power the isolated
stretch, the other give the light the right signal.
--
Frank Buiting
Visit the LEGO Lexicon: http://members.chello.nl/~f.buiting/lego/
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> How would one go about making 9v versions of the 12v accessories? In
> particular, light up level crossing lights, decoupling post, and
> especially the signal. The items have to be made without using any 12v
> bits (like the control boxes) but they have to do the same job.
Check out my web site below for pictures of my 9v motorised
level crossing with flashing lights and bells (siren module).
I now control it with a technic control centre II.
--
My LEGO creations site "Allanton NZ" is at
http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/~allanj/
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