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Subject: 
Re: The Canoe Myth of .pirates
Newsgroups: 
lugnet.pirates
Date: 
Thu, 21 Aug 2003 05:48:17 GMT
Viewed: 
2829 times
  
In lugnet.pirates, Richie Dulin wrote:
   In lugnet.pirates, Stephen Rowe wrote:
   In lugnet.pirates, Richie Dulin wrote: lego’s hulls do lend themselves to be shaped like a canoe when strung together, but i think it is not because of the number of hull sections, but the lack of any type of progressive hull curvature along the length of the ship. what i mean is, the beam was not the same at any one point on the ship. as you walk down the side of a ship, you can see that the ship is not bowed only at the bow and stern. if you look at a topdown cutaway of the decks, they bow outward until about 1/3 of the length, then they straighten out, then begin to bow inward again, but at a less extreme angle, where they finally get to their narrowest at the stern. legos hull parts are perfectly straight. only the bow and stern sections are bowed, or show any taper at all. now, this works for smaller ships because the tapering sections are proportionally correct for the ship,

Good thoughts, however: (1) the LEGO consitution looks ‘right’ doesn’t it? Despite being even narrower than it should be for its length and (2) the stern taper can be represented in the top part of the hull, if necessary.

i think that the lego Constellation looks “right” because it is such a small scale, that the finer detail dont always matter as much. for instance, it doesnt have the correct number of stays, ropes, etc, but because it is so small, these are largely ignored because they would not add to the ship. generally, larger models are more well detailed, because the eye can take a much more discerning look than one may with smaller models. the constellation look right at the current size, but if you doubled the scale, and enlarged the ship, it should begin to strike you as more canoe like. the stern taper can be represented on the top of the hull, but only so much. the lower hull does not taper until the final hull piece, and with a ship of 3-4 hull sections (bow, stern, 1-2 center sections) the taper is enough to look proportionally correct, as it accounts for 1/3 to 1/4 of the ship length. however, when a ship gets larger, aka: more sections, the proportion of tapering hull to straight hull becomes far less. with a ship of 4-5 center sections, the taper drops to just 1/6 to 1/7 of the complete hull length.

   Maybe, I should spend a couple of hours building a double scale Constellation Hull? The Port Brique shipwrights have been uncharacteristically idle for the last few weeks.

you know what they say about the devil and idle hands ;-) if you do, please take some pics to let us know how it came out, who knows, it may look good!

  
   but when you string hull parts together, they just become more and more straight, hence, the “canoe” look. now, as you said, if one builds the hull up nicely, you can help to break the canoe look up, but at some point, it begins to look like a double decked canoe!

I’m not convinced, but I haven’t done the experimentation. An eight centre Misérable II is on the cards, but a long way off (months, not weeks!)

watch out men, it’s the french long-frigate, Miserable II!!!!!!

well, i attempted to build a 2 decker of 6 center sections one time. now, i didnt think about widening the hull with inverse slopes, but i thought that if i lengthened the ship enough, it would look okay if i built it higher. alas, it began to take on the look of the “double decked canoe”, it was just too high, and too straight, and obviously not wide enough. so, i abandoned the project, and broke it down into two ships. however, i have a ship almost completed right now, another 4 center one, but after all this, i think i will try to increase it to 5. it does appear a little beefy for it’s length.
  
   personally, i like to stick with ships with 4 center sections. i can build these ships large enough to get a respectible number of guns on them, but they do not begin to look unwieldy. however, that is just my opinion.

I think 4 centre sections is ideal as a compromise - it’s playable, the masts are easy, the rigging is mostly easy, and there’s enought space on (and below) deck for a decent amount of activity.

ahhhh, easy way out huh? ha ha just kidding! yeah, i just run into so many problems that go hand in hand with inreasing the length.

  
   you made another interesting comment about the masts. i have a problem with the lego masts: they are a fixed size (diameter). this sonds funny, but on large ships, the masts that look just right on 4 center section ships, begin to look thinner and thinner in relation to the size of the ship, so while one can go high, one has more problems trying to make the masts appear beefy. as with all lego, there must be more than one way to skin a cat, but i havent run across it yet!

2x2x11 (iirc) rounds are a good start. It’s hard to make a strong conection to the top of them though. (I use a collar made from 2x2 L-bricks under a 4x4 mast base) 2x2 rounds with a technic rod through the centre are also useful. But the rigging to hold it steady is the tricky bit.

yeah, i had that problem with my failed 6 center section baby, the masts were just so incredibly fragile.
  
Sandwiched plates (a la Constellation) are also a possibility. With the use of 2x1 plates with one tile, you could probably even get a vaguely rounded cross section.

HA HAAH! (dashingly said) build on good man! good luck with your experimentation.

thanks steve

   Thanks for the comments!

Adieu

Richie Dulin


   Port Brique
Somewhere in the South Pacifique
   
   Misérable
Building a safer South Pacifique



Message is in Reply To:
  Re: The Canoe Myth of .pirates
 
(...) Good thoughts, however: (1) the LEGO consitution looks 'right' doesn't it? Despite being even narrower than it should be for its length and (2) the stern taper can be represented in the top part of the hull, if necessary. Maybe, I should spend (...) (21 years ago, 20-Aug-03, to lugnet.pirates, FTX)

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